Day 68 Miles 130 Laird River Hot Springs Campground Along the Alaska Highway, British Columbia. The builders of the highway in this area layed the board walk to the hot springs and used it for their relaxation after their arduous work. Avoiding the Laird River Canyon route brought the road to this area. Today the hot springs are a popular destination and we were fortunate to get campsites easy walking distance to the board walk that leads to the pools fed by the hot springs. By the end of the day no regular sites were available, and the “day use” parking lot was full of Rv’s who apparently are allowed to camp there. We went into the pools around 2 p.m. after walking the area upon our arrival. The temperature is over 100F and varies around the pool. I was amazed at the numbers of people and the ages ranging from 2 months to seemingly quite elderly. After about a half hour I’d had enough. The air was cool and it was windy and by the time I returned to the campsite I was chilled and had a cup of hot tea. Judy though stayed much longer and went back later in the evening. She did another cookout, this time with delicious pork chops. We headed over to the boardwalk for the7:30 p.m. ranger walk. He described how many of the plants are somewhat tropical and there are varieties of orchids though none currently in bloom in the warm water swamps. Areas are surprisingly lush and green.
I spent some time in the afternoon going over maps and blocking out miles east to Rock City Illinois, a small town in which my sister Margaret’s family has lived for over 30 years in a 100+ year old house. Each year they gather along with friends and other family members to celebrate Rock City Days. http://www.dayinrockcity.com/ Originally I had planned to arrive after the celebration but in time for a family wedding. The wedding is not going to occur so I said I’d try to get there in time to see everyone. Of course on this end of the trip we’ve been expanding the schedule too.
What I have concluded is that I’ll have to forgo my Wisconsin plans which would have brought me into the states around International Falls. Instead I’ll pick up Interstate 29 south of Winnipeg where I need to acquire my missing “donut” for my sanitation hose. I’ll connect up with I 94 to Wisconsin and then head south to northwest Illinois. It will still be a push. The result was also tightening the plans on this end of the trip. Hopefully we can reach Jasper National Park next Monday. Depending on the crowds there I’ll try to do at least 4 days in the area.
Day 69 Miles134 Tetsa River Regional Park, along the Alaska Highway, British Columbia. After photographing areas of Laird Springs I departed the campground with several options for the day. We had been warned that the campground in Ft. Nelson was terrible and to try to stay before that town. There was a lot of road construction as well as gravel areas and some pretty good sized holes. In a couple of areas vehicles were led through the construction zones by a pilot car. Around Lake Muncho, a beautiful Green glacier fed lake, the road is wearing away on the lake or southbound side. Since the completion in 1943 the road has had many changes particularly eliminating curves, but this area still has plenty. Stakes on the sides may indicate some more changes. There are also several older bridges of which at least one is being replaced. It has to be a very costly upkeep along the entire route. Caravans of RV’s were heading north. Much fewer are south bound. I am very happy with our timing.
The campgrounds at Muncho Lake were full and the one at Summit Lake did not look very appealing. We found fantastic cinnamon buns at the Tetsa Service Center but decided to go further for camping and are very pleased with this park. Our sites back up to the river and it is very quiet and away from traffic noises. Our food supply though is getting low so we’ll each wing it tonight and hopefully restock at either Fort Nelson or Fort St. John. Lack of supermarkets since Whitehorse is part of the problem. I should add that there are few opportunities to get gasoline from Watson Lake to Fort Nelson. The ones that are available make me question how long they’ve had the fuel. There are establishments that look long abandoned and others recently closed. Those open appear to be barely hanging on. It has to be difficult. The main traffic through here are the Rv’ers and trucks carrying goods north. Neither are likely to stay awhile or spend much.
The majestic mountains today are the Northern Rockies. Signs explain the Alaska ranges are not part of the Rockies and are different geologically. The areas are sparsely settled except by the mosquitoes though we are passing a lot of wildlife right on the side of the road. Yesterday several groups of bison including those with babies. Judy also saw and photographed a bear. Today she spotted and photographed a moose in the lake and we both saw Elk and Dall sheep along the roadside. Lots of warning signs and lower speed postings but I have to think some get hit.
Day 70 Miles 297 Charlie Lake Campground, Fort St. John, BC This day didn’t start out with a plan to stay here. The night at Tetsa River was very peaceful with the rushing river about 300 yards away, I slept very well. The morning was warmer but also brought rain. First stop was Fort Nelson. Along sides the Alaska Highway are frontage roads with the businesses which is helpful when you are looking for a grocery store. Judy spotted an IGA which was clean and well stocked. I suggested a rotisserie chicken for our dinner and then succumbed to a piece of pizza that was calling me.
I wasn't to get the gas tank full but with the thought of less than 100 miles to our overnight stop, I wasn’t worried. There were few turnouts and most of them muddy in the continuing rain so it was 2 hours later that I ate my cold Canadian bacon/ pineapple pizza. Judy caught up with me as I was finished and we agreed to meet at Sikinni Chief River Campground. However when I reached it, I was not impressed with what I saw. I parked so Judy would spot me as she came around the highway curve. A Kodiak RV from Ontario arrived with her and we all three went into the office to inquire about sites. “You can choose anywhere but number 12. The cost is $25 for full service (water, electric, sewer) and the showers are free” said the unenthusiastic man behind the cash register. He suggested we drive around and select our sites and come back and make the arrangements. Perhaps it was the gloomy weather but the sites in what was more like a parking lot and the toilet/shower room looking on the exterior like a very tired mobile unit, and the hum of the generator which was probably supplying the electricity, and the 3 p.m. time, caused us to agree to go further down the road to the next option, Pink Mountain. Turns out Kodiak made the same choice and pulled into Pink Mountain behind us. We drove the campground first and found wooded but very muddy sites. By this time I was back to ½ tank of gas so I decided to fill up. Judy visited with the Kodiak folks and told them we were thinking of Charlie Lake about another 100 miles. They’d stayed there on the road north and said it was very nice and then they promptly left.
Charlie Lake, a forest of Aspens, was worth the wait and long drive. It’s our 3rd night of dry camping and all have been much better than anything we found of a commercial nature. This park is very near the town of Fort St. John and we’ll check out their Saturday morning Farmers Market before heading the 50 miles to Dawson Creek. It would be tempting to stay another night here but the need for laundry, a shower, and the threat of more rain and thunderstorms probably point to the sensible thing to do is the short distance to the end of the Alaska Highway. This portion has been in the best condition we’ve experienced but still with short rough sections and bridge replacement construction.
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