Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Alaska Bound Days 66 & 67




Day 66 Miles 146 Dawson Peaks Resort Campground Teslin, Yukon Territory The trip north began as a repeat of yesterday when someone else was driving and we made photo stops along the way. As a result I continued to Carcross where I found the parking areas jammed with tour buses and large RV’s pulling cars. I think most were there because the train was about to depart. I was there because I knew where the toilet facilities were! By the time I was ready to leave, all of them had proceeded me and the train had left. A short distance further was the turn for the Taglish Road which would take me back to the Alaska highway and points south. I rendezvoused with Judy at the Taglish River Bridge. We each had our lunch while cutting up veggies for her to marinade for the evening cookout.

Milepost had listed cinnamon buns at Johnson Crossing, about 20 miles along the Alaska Highway but it was a big disappointment. The best so far was in the Skagway bakery, straight out of the oven. We stopped in Teslin to visit the two Tlinglit (pronounced Kling-it) sites. The first was an exhibit of local carvers work including masks and canoes as well as beading. The wonderful setting on Teslin Lake and great facility I’m sure is used for community events. Then on to the George Johnston Museum. George was an amazing man, a Tlinglit who had no formal education but ordered a camera and developing equipment from Eaton’s in the 20’s and taught himself photography. He also purchased a car in 1928 before there were roads in Teslin and together with other community members built a road which many years later became part of the Alaska highway. He’d paint the car white in winter and use in on the ice. We watched a long video on this amazing story that had a poignant side as well. According to the film, the US was surveying the area for the road before Canada had agreed to it. The Tlinglit people through whose property it ran were never consulted. In addition they were required to pass through check points and show ID’s so they wouldn’t be confused for Japanese. This in what was their native area for many, many generations. They contracted illnesses because they had no immunity to the diseases of the men building the roads and many died. In essence their entire way of life changed with the building of the road. Now they are attempting to bring back traditions and culture and are doing this in part with their kinsmen, the coastal Tlinglit.

Our campground for the night was chosen due to Judy’s familiarity with the book Dead North by Sue Henry, a mystery writer living in Anchorage. This book’s ending was at Dawson Peaks Resort and many of Henry’s fans frequent the place. Apparently she has two series and the protagonist in both are women, traveling by RV in Alaska and the Yukon. I’m going to have to read those.I don’t know if they are featured in the book, but the mosquitoes here are fierce. The owners say the worst they’ve experienced. I’m trying out my new mosquito zapper paddle. They do have good internet connection and I was able to add some photos to the blog as well as correct and add to some links. We shared bumbleberry and rhubarb pie made by the owner and both were winners! The resort is located on a bay of Teslin Lake which is supposed to have good fishing.

We are finding most of the commercial campgrounds accept the Good Sam membership card and offer a 10% discount. We have been going without reservations and most campgrounds have more than enough room.

Day 67 Miles 164 Campground Services, Watson Lake Yukon Territory A late start after a difficult night. The mosquitoes had to be finding a route in. They were dive bombing me all night. I’d get up and use my zapper and it would quiet for a while and then begin again. Dead mosquitoes everywhere and some were “vaporized” by the zapper.

Today's route crosses the Continental Divide. The rivers that run west join the Yukon into the Bering Sea. The east side joins the MacKenzie River and empties into the Arctic Ocean. It was almost 2 when arrived in Watson Lake and time for the show at the Northern Lights exhibit. I was disappointed. The museum at the University of Alaska Fairbanks was a much better illustration and explanation of the Northern Lights. They also had an animated presentation on their sky dome re the astronauts which I thought was rather juvenile. Maybe it had to do with my fatigue. The “sign forest” was amazing and almost more than could be taken in. One showed Hollywood Florida 4100 miles away. I suspect that is as the crow flies, not as Sandy will drive! A stop at the visitor center to get information on some sites down the road which will be in British Columbia and assistance with tonight’s campground. Then we made a stop at the local supermarket with high prices and small selection before finding the campground (after incorrect directions!).Hopefully the last night in the Yukon will bring a good night sleep

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