From Bass Harbor Maine

Photos: Pat & Terry; Theodore Too heading into Halifax Harbor; Boats at low tide Parkers Cove.

July 22 Tuesday Morning Cove Oceanfront Campground, Parkers Cove Nova Scotia The words of a song come to mind something like “sitting here down by the bay watching the tides float away” well maybe it was the clouds but anyway I am sitting here over looking the Bay of Fundy as the tide is rolling out. An island has emerged from the sea and it is all fog shrouded. This campground claims it’s the only 4 star one in Nova Scotia. Not sure if that’s true but it does have a great view I’m sure when it isn’t foggy and not so bad when it is. My “bottom of the price list”, yet still pricey site still has a view as there are not many sites in use.

Yesterday I left Dartmouth in rain which continued most of the what to the west known as Annapolis Shore for the town of Annapolis Royale or parts known as the Evangeline Trail from the fictional young woman portrayed in Longfellow’s poem Evangeline, telling the tragic story of the 1755 deportation of the Acadians from Nova Scotia. My objective was to visit Grand Pre, the Canadian National Historic site on land once occupied by the Acadians and now a tribute and memorial to them. Longfellow and Evangeline are also recognized. The film/audio/visual presentation in the visitors center is excellent. The theater is built to resemble the hold of a 1755 ship into which they were loaded. This group of people of French descent, primarily from southern France and of Catholic religon, settled the area in the 1600’s and created dikes to make the salty wetlands become excellent farming. They would not take sides with the British French conflict but were held in suspicion by the British due to the French origins and religion. I learned some of this story on our barge trip in March through the Acadian area of Louisiana. What I was surprised to learned then and more on this trip was the many places where they went. I had originally thought they all went immediately to Louisiana, but that was over a number of years, but many escaped or returned to New Brunswick and Quebec as well as setting in a number of US states. The gardens and chapel are quite lovely as well, particularly the stained glass window in the chapel. There were not many people but all seemed to take a hushed reverent tone. Family History researchers will also find sources of information here.

I went on in search of a winery and cheese outlet, finally finding the former but not the latter. So I had wine tasting which was fun. Since Pat had provided such a wonderful breakfast, I hadn’t had lunch so I was a bit concerned but it went ok. Terry gave me some “training” with some of their “home brew” wine over the weekend.We had a great visit, low key which was perfect for me and I thoroughly enjoyed our long conversations though don’t think our ideas will change the world unfortunately! I turns out that Pat and I are only two days apart in age. She made wonderful meals and I really appreciated it particularly the delicious fruits and vegetables from their garden. Sunday we walked the waterfront in Halifax seeing all types of boats from the Theodore Too tugboat(children’s books feature him) to the Dartmouth/Halifax ferry, to large container ship entering the harbor, and a mock up boat set up for the filming of a movie and many others old and new.

Today I head for the Digby/St. John’s New Brunswich Ferry , my last day in Nova Scotia. As always I enjoy the beauty and diversity of the area. Yesterday I went through some lush rolling farmland. It’s amazing to have that alongside rocky cliffs.

Evening now in the Rockwood Park Campground. It’s a public park very close to the center of St. John. I only made one wrong turn and was able to correct. It was a bit challenging as we arrived as everyone was getting out of work. My ferry parking spot was almost at the ramp with huge trucks all around me. I had difficulty walking past to get to the vehicle. The ferry ride was a bit bumpy, but considering that Cristobel was supposed to be in the area, it wasn’t bad. No rain either. A young energetic staff member of the New Brunswick Museum provided programs during the trip. They were aimed at the children but interesting and entertaining for all. He talked about the ship building industry in New Brunswick, the Fundy Tides, settlement of the area, and the deportation of the Acadians. He also had people out on deck looking for whales, but it was difficult with the rough seas.
I am camped in a section that is used for caravans. One is expected tomorrow so they were willing to give me one night. Many here seem to be in groups or of a more permanent nature. My section is all gravel. I’ve seen this in some other parks and perhaps it is what the caravans like. After all they are looking to socialize and be close to each other. A group is outside playing some sort of tossing game as I write this.
The weather report sounds as though I have missed some heavy rain in Nova Scotia and Newfoundland from Cristobel . With Dolly going into Texas, it’s already up to the E’s for storms and it’s still July! I cannot complain about any of my weather. The cool rainy weekends in Summerside, PEI and Dartmouth, NS were spent in cozy houses with warm friends. Most of the camping weather has been very pleasant. Now onto Maine and the USA.

Wednesday, July 23. Today would have been Les’s 83rd birthday. Last year on this date, I really fell apart and as a result decided I had to find something that I wanted to do. I made a list of what I enjoy and the long and short story is that I began researching small motor homes. Being outdoors in nature and traveling came up high on my list and Big Mama certainly leads to both. I think Les would approve.
I decided to take a side trip on the way to Bass Harbor and visited Campobello Island and Roosevelt’s summer home. The house is 10,000 sq. ft. and much of the furnishings were theirs. The views over the Bay of Fundy are beautiful and Roosevelt must have been quite a sailor to deal with those tides. Now they are salmon farming along the area. It’s all part of large corporations. The last small family owned operation was bought up last winter according to one of the interpreters.
Canada has no monopoly on bumpy roads. I’ve encounted a lot on my Maine trip today. The campground is very close to the Bass Harbor lighthouse and I’m hoping to hike over there tomorrow. My Roadtrek friend Susan who’s a summer work camper here is making diner for me tonight. She’ll take the next couple of days off so we can do some touring together. I understand rain is called for. Of course I’d be happy to have someone to play dominoes with or watch a movie!