Central Newfoundland

Note: At the end of this post you'll find another I've done today with a few photos. So if you don't have patience to read it all you might want to go down and check out the photos.

July 8 8:45 p.m. Just returned from the village of Trinity, a national historic area, to Trinity Cabins and RV park. This addition to the blog will go on top of what I finally posted at the local library tonight. Hopefully, I will have a WiFi connection in the next few days to add some photos as well.
Just wanted to add a bit about today. First of all the library is on the second floor, up an outside staircase, hardly handicapped accessible and a bit tough on everyone in the winter I would think. They’ve been trying to get wireless and almost succeeded but then the companies changed and they now are beginning again. Three of us were vying for connections and were similar in age I would guess.
My day in Trinity began at 9:30 a.m. I parked Big Mama in the large gravel lot I’d used the day before. I left the refrig on propane for the first time. When I’m driving I use DC/house battery as it is advised to shut off the propane when traveling. I was pleased it worked as I had concern the pilot light for the refrig was clogged. Apparently not. The propane gage is again showing full tonight after showing ¾ about a week ago.
Anyway I headed off to the rendezvous for the Trinity Walking tour that began at 10 a.m. Apparently the previous day had been a large group coming by bus from a campground. They bring the group every 2 years. I had talked to several who decided not to take the tour because there were so many. I lucked out with only 8 of us and the tour lasted 2 ½ hours. We walked all over town which means up and down and around and listened to the fascinating tales of the history and people of the area. Kevin, the leader, is a teacher and seems to thoroughly enjoy giving the tours and is tireless . I was the oldest by far (Kevin was a few years younger) but was able to keep up the pace. It was great exercise for both the body and mind.
Following that I had promised myself lunch at an eatery—3rd time. I choose Dockmarina, overlooking the harbor. I had a great view and a delicious bowl of chowder. I cruised through a few gift shops but thought prices high. I did dicuss the local knitting with a young lady. She said most of them knit with wool from area sheep. The wool is sent to Nova Scotia for preparation including dying.
Then it was off to the Pagent. This is a production given each Wednesday in the summer by the Rising Tide theater. My morning tour had laid a wonderful groundwork for the pagent which dealt with the area history in stories, songs, and vignets. It too went all over the area for its outdoor venue. It was a bit over 2 hours and very well done and more exercise.
I also purchased a ticket for the 5:30 dinner theater at Rising Tide. This too is only on Wednesday. I returned to Big Mama for a half hour stretch out and then headed for the theater. I had choosen a cod casserole as my entree and it was quite good. Some of my table mates had also attended the Pagent and we all had a rosey glow from the sun. Again the members of the cast, all of whom had performed in the Pagent , did a great job. They have some wonderful voices, instrumentalists, and talented actors. The pace was rapid as we completed our meals which appeared to have been prepared and served by local women.
I can’t help but feel a connection with Trinity after my experiences today and hope someday I’ll be able to return. There are a number of Bed and Breakfasts here as well as some rental cottages. Part of the discussion in the morning tour was the lack of young people in the villages and how so many small towns are just disappearing. Since the moratorium on cod in the early 90’s, there really has been no substitution for work. Tourism is only a summer occupation. Last winter Trinity had 34 residents. I know I’m not doing it justice with this description, but I’ll just say I am so happy my travels brought me here.
July 10 Terra Nova National Park I’m now in the area known as central Newfoundland. The warmest summer temperatures seem to be here. Today I have been in shorts all day. When I arrived late yesterday afternoon I was exhausted. I think I was tired of the tourist life and even though I’d had two nights at Trinity inbetween I kept very busy seeing and doing things. For the first time on the trip, I put a movie in the DVD player and spent my evening watching Jack Nicholson. I awoke to rain but it soon turned to a sunny cloudless warm day. I decided to remove the bike and rack and clean them well. I waxed the bike as well and then took a nice ride around the campgrounds. In doing so I discovered the store and laundry room. It wasn’t busy so I decided that would be a good task and I could go there by bicycle.
It turned out to be a great meeting place as well. I had very enjoyable conversations with a woman from St. Johns, one from Texas, and one from nearby Clarenville, Nancy, who offered to give me a mooseburger when I commented I wanted to try one. So around 4 I went over to their site to find them returning from a swim. Her husband Jake insisted on grilling the mooseburger and even toasting the bun. I wanted to have it without garnish so I could have the full flavor. It was really tasty, much better than beef. They said you have to get it from someone who shot it. You can only take one a year and the only meat is from the legs for the most part though Nancy told of a mincemeat her mother used to make from other parts, heart, tongue, etc. This moose was shot last September.
Then they insisted I stay for dinner. The had one of those oil boiling pots and did chicken and potatoes as well as corn on the cob and rice. It was all delicious and we had lively conversation as well. Jake works as an ocean pilot bringing oil tankers into Placentia Bay. Newfoundland drills a lot of oil which is sent to the US for processing. Newfoundland refinery in that area processes oil from Venezula, Russia and then ships to US. Nancy is a laboratory technian in a Clarenville hospital and we talked about the problems in the health care system including a big item in the news regarding some pathology tests for cancer that were incorrectly read. Their friends from St. Johns, Charlotte and Barney, were part of the group. Barney had just returned from serving on a ship from Tunisia to Newfoundland. They all are well travelled. Of course we also discussed US politics! It was a fun time and I’m invited for coffee in the morning!
I spotted an Illinois license plate this morning and the couple turned out to be from Joliet, not far from my former residence in La Grange. They were the first US people I met until the laundry room encounter with the lady from Texas. She and her husband are full time Rvers and visit Patrick AF base in Florida as he is still in the military. He’s off wilderness camping tonight and I thought we’d have another visit, but I was ready to crawl in after the fest and putting the bike and rack on in preparation for tomorrow.
Yesterday I drove to the small village of Elliston known as the “world capital” of root cellers. You see them all over the area. They are not much in use now but served as winter food storage for many generations. The other claim to fame is a bird sanctuary and home to the Puffins. I hiked down to the overlook where there was a great view of them in and out of their burrows, flying and diving down into the water. I later saw a number of them swimming near the Bonavista lighthouse. In addition to visiting the lighthouse area, I went into Bonavista which continues to process fish contributing to the air fragrance. I visited the Ryan Premises which is part of the remaining group of buildings when the Ryans ran a major fishing and fish processing business there. A group of local musicians was entertaining and many of those watching were part of a Hanover tour.
As I approached Big Mama the front passenger-side tire looked low. I went into a panic. I had parked at a retirement home parking lot in the area and decided to see if anyone there knew of a tire place. The woman at the front desk was able to direct me to an automotive/truck repair place on the way out of town. There seemed to be only one person working but he had a gage and checked all the tires and they were right where they were supposed to be. Needless to say it was a big relief. He also gave me ideas on campgrounds along the route but said I should have no problem making Terra Nova Park by 5 p.m. I guess this possible trauma added to my fatigue but again made me realize the kindness and helpfullness of everyone here.
Tomorrow I continue to head northwest. I’m not sure how far I’ll get. The man from Illinois suggested a great place to eat along the way and one of the women at the laundry gave me a possible internet café location. I’d also like to see a bit more of the park, most of which is north of the Newman Sound Campground where I am located.
Saturday, July 12. Not sure if this is my most frustrating day in Newfoundland but it seems so. I departed about 9 a.m. and took 2 wrong turns enroute to the Visitor Center. I don’t know if its me or the signs or lack of signs but it is very frustrating and this was the first of several incidents. Anyway I managed to find the Sea Rescue launch area along the way. The Visitor Center Marine Interpretation Center was primarily activities for children. I inquired regarding the boat tours touted in my guide. “Their contract expired and they decided not to renew. The new company will begin in August.” Was the answer. Another “outsourcing” problem.
I next headed off on route 310 which cuts through the north end of the park and then on to the end of the peninsula to the village of Salvage (pronounced Sahlvahge. I’m drawing some conclusion that the accent reminds me of Cockney. The o seems to be a long “a” sound. Cod comes out like cad.) The route to Salvage which runs along a narrow peninsula was very picturesque and a one point was a causeway with water close by on either side. Islands dotted the sounds . I arrived about 10:30 and drove as far as I dared on the narrow road. I then doubled back to the restaurant that was my objective, Killicks (I think I put a store into LaGrange by that name??). The sign on the door was “Closed” and there was a “For Sale” sign hanging on the building. I did see movement inside and thought they probably had an 11 a.m. opening. So I set off on foot to do some exploring with Big Mama taking up most of their tiny parking area. Everywhere I turned I wanted to take a photo. It was a scene that artists would love.
I also want to add that along the route I saw many people taking walks on the side of the road including children. This is quite typical. There are no sidewalks and everyone seems to like to get out and walk. People waved as they passed me. I sensed some here were visitors and not full time residents.
When I returned to the restaurant the sign had changed to open and the lights were on. I had left the campground with sunny skys but increasingly dark clouds were accumulating and someone telephoned the restaurant to report the prediction for thunder storms later. I fit right in here. Weather is a frequent talk and debate.
I ordered my fishburger after being told it was pan fried. It was quite good but nothing to compare with Doug’s the week before. I had a fantastic view of the harbor. The waitress apologized that it took a while. I assured her I was in no rush and was enjoying the view. I was the only customer though there were a surpring number of set tables in the small facility. I asked about the fish processing plant I had seen in the harbor. She said they were waiting for the caplin, a small fish that the whales feed on and which is processed for other products. “When I was a girl they always arrived on June 18,” I was told. “they are later than usual.” She said they would cover the beaches in the area and I have seen photos of this.
On my way back to the TCH I detoured to Sandy Cove a town that appeared to be built on a sand dune unlike all the rest I’ve seen that seem to perch on rocks. At the base of the very sheer sand cliff, was a fairly wide beach. Someone was camping there and others were walking the beach. No caplin to be seen though.
Now I was headed northwest toward Gander. This was the refueling stop in the early days of transatlantic passenger planes. It was also the site of a terrible crash of a US military plane, I think in the 80s. It’s most recent historical aviation event was the diversion of transatlantic flights to Gander on September 11, 2001 and the kindness of the citizens of Gander to those passengers who were unexpected guests for several days before the flights resumed. On the CBC radio this morning they told of a cast call for extras to be used in a movie about the event that will be filming later this year. “All types of people will be needed.”
I was unsure how far to push today and thought perhaps I’d stop early in Grand Falls/Windson where a campground had been recommended. It would give me time to get a few groceries and perhaps find an internet connection. Well, as I eluded to above, there was no sign and I finally called on Greta to help. Then when I arrived I was told there was no room. A RV caravan had booked half the facility and the other half was also taken. However the receptionist was very helpful and provided me with a map, telephoned a campground on the other side of town which said they had a couple of spots, showed me how to get there and also where the grocery and an internet café were located. Off I went map in hand. One of the roads was under construction and traffic was one lane. It was located by a gas station and even though my gage read ¾ full I decided to go ahead and fill and study the map and the accomodations book to check out the other campground.
On my way again, I didn’t see the internet café. Back on TCH found the exit. No signs for the campground but one for information. I was told to turn left at the bottom of the hill and go to the end of the road. She also marked the internet café on the map (both people confirmed the library was closed.) So I did as I thought I was told and ended up on a gravel road into an industrial area. Tried another way and ended up in a residential area. Decide the H___ with it and got back on TCH where upon after driving away I saw the sign on the highway. So I turned around and prepared to enter from TCH. Wrong! Amazingly I got through this unscathed but I had to quickly abort the entrance as it was not made for the likes of Big Mama. Now I was on the narrow shoulder facing on coming traffic. The good news is there isn’t much and I then made a u turn right on the highway. Goodby Grand Falls!
So I was now back to deciding how far to push it when I saw signs for Catamaran campground. Off to the side I saw what looked like a large gravel parking lot with RV’s and a quonset hut. Not very appealing. But too late I saw the entrance and wooded sites and lake with a beach. So I again turned around and headed back. A rope was strung across the entrance road. I got out and went up to the window. Only service sites were in that gravel lot but she could give me water only sites. She had two available toward the back. Then she remembered someone who checked out early and the sight was nearby. She even let down the rope. It isn’t bad. As soon as I’d paid up and walked back to the site, it began to rain. That confirmed my decision. It is my first night of “dry camping” with water available and intermittent rain it seems a misnomer! The toilets are flush but from the outside look like outhouses. Most here are seasonal meaning they stay all summer and I suspect most are Newfoundlanders. Some of the sites I saw on a walk between rain showers reminded me of the Poconos complex I visited. They’ve personalized with signs, flowers and other lawn décor.
The house battery didn’t take long to drop a bit and I realized it was the water pump. Now I’ve hooked up the water but the connection leaks even with washers. I also discovered that my camping lantern is not aboard. I suspected that I had left it in Stuart and now it is confirmed. I do have small lights that operate off the house battery but needless to say this will be an early night. I’ve now decided though that I will try to get electricity for tomorrow. The Gros Morne campgrounds are unserviced meaning no electric or water. Hopefully I can get into one of the two in that area that are commercial though I’m worried that the caravans may have booked there. I thought of calling to reserve but I have no cell service and didn’t have any at Terra Nova either.
Anyway I am secure for the night with plenty of water!
Sunday July 13 It was light until after 10 p.m. but I listened to my portable CD player with my earphones (a pre mp3 player) and just relaxed when there wasn’t sufficient light to read. During the night I had to pull on an extra blanket and decided to forgo the shower this a.m. I was on the road before 9 and headed for Kings Point. The scenery just keeps getting better, as difficult as it seems. Spectacular lakes (they call ponds) and brooks (our creeks and small rivers) and incredible vistas. TCH (Trans Canada Highway) had very little traffic going my way. Lots headed east particularly motorcycles and RV’s which gave me hope I’d find a site for tonight.
Route 390 and then 391 took me into another picturesque village. My destination was Kings Point Pottery. They had an incredible exhibit and an excellent video at The Rooms in St. John. The pottery with the whale design was calling me. Sandy Newman had put Kings Point on her “don’t miss” list as well. I found the shop and it was open but I’d also spied Big Bay Café with outside dining. By now the temperature was low 70’s (55 when I left the campground) little wind and bright sunshine added to the warmth. Jake, my mooseburger chief, said I should try toutons, a traditional Newfoundland breakfast. Sure enough it was on the menu and that was my order. I even took a photo of it. In appearance they look something like a large English Muffin. Apparently it is yeast dough not fully risen that is fried. It is eaten with molasses. Molasses is popular here dating back to the fish trade with Jamiaca and the West Indies when they’d return with molasses and rum. It was very tasty particularly since I was brought up on molasses with my southern US background. The only residual problem was that it was cooked in bacon fat and that taste carried forward.
Afterwards I walked over to the pottery shop. No one was around so I took my time looking and finally chose a plate that would pack well and fix the budget. I walked into an adjacent room where there was a cash register and a bell to ring. I rang it. No one. Then I noticed a “seconds” shelf and took time to look at that and decided on another plate and a “tumbler” both with the dark blue background and whale design. I rang the bell again. Finally I called out “hello”. Then a young woman appeared quite surprised anyone was there. She’s the apprentice and was out back doing something. She explained the defects in the pieces and I decided to take them both though that was a bit more than I budgeted. Oh well they took credit cards!
On the way back to TCH I stopped and bought smoked salmon and fresh brown eggs. I had seen the sign earlier and wanted to check it out. The gentleman selling them had a tent next to his house. He took me t the cooler and I selected the smallest piece he had. It is locally caught salmon and he does the smoking. The eggs are the freshest I have had since maybe childhood if then. The young helper shooed the hens off the nest and they gave him quite a time. He had to chase them into a pen so he could get the eggs. Then he brought them over in a bucket and the man washed and examined each one and put them in my egg carton.
It turns out he used to own a winter place in Orlando but then had heart problems and they sold. Now they are thinking of returning to rent this year. We had a very nice chat and then I was on my way again.
I headed off on route 430 Gros Morne National Park , a UNESCO World heritage site. I am staying at a commercial campground tonight Gros Morne RV in the town of Rocky Harbor. On the way into town I bought gas. I thought it would be more but was actually less by one cent. Now I’m in the mountains, the upper Appalachians. I’m taking the rest of the day to shower, wash my hair while the temperature is somewhat warm (60’s) catch up on email and hopefully send off this as well as a posting of photos. They have WiFi!
I have a nice secuded area with great views and a surpising grassy area where I’m looking forward to sitting in my chair and reading the newspaper I bought. Tomorrow I’ll head for a park campground and hopefully see the production in the Park theater tomorrow night. There are boat rides through what is described as spectacular fiords. Hopefully the weather will co-operate. Today is just beautiful.