Departing Europe

I just printed my boarding pass for tomorow's first leg Stuttgardt to London. I will have over 3 hours at Heathrow. Fortunately I am carrying a small amount of British money if needed. Today in Ludwigsburg it is raining after 5 beautiful days. We are very grateful the weather was beautiful for the days with outside plans.

Today is for relaxing, packing, and assisting Sabine and Dietz. Tomorrow I will take the train to the airport which should take less than an hour.

I will arrive in Chicago about 7 p.m. where Emily will pick me up and take me to her apartment. On Friday I will go to Ginnys in the suburbs. Saturday will be the 1st birthday party for granddaughter Katherine. Monday early morning will be my flight to Florida with arrival at Schooner Oaks in the afternoon. I hope I can adjust to being home. Everywhere here is talk of our election. I know that will be even more so in the US. Fortunately it will not be long now, that is if Florida is able to count their votes!

Activities with the Lells

It has been a busy time since my arrival. On Thursday Dietz sister and her two daughters arrived from US. There was a mix up and they came by train from the airport and I greeted them at the door. Fortunately the Lells arrived shortly. On Friday Dietz brother and his wife arrived from Austria by car and then daughter Constanza came in the evening so we were all together for dinner and story telling. All spoke English so most of the conversation was in English. I was designated to take videos and recorded some stories of their childhood.

Saturday old friends from Berlin arrived who would stay until Tuesday so there was a shuffle of bedrooms. We all departed for Waldenberg shortly after noon. Waldenberg is on a hilltop and was almost completely destroyed in WWII. Apparently it was thought to be a source of artillery. After capture it was further burned. Yet they credit the Americans with the rebuilding. Now it is a popular area for visiting and hiking. Our hotel was the Panorama and that was a good description of the view from my window.

At 2:30 we gathered at the small church for the service. Beautiful music was an important part and played bz friends on the organ, oboe and violin. The minister was also a good friend. I was sorry there was not an English translation, but everyone who could understand though it was a wonderful homily. The bride and groom sat in chairs in the front of the minister.

After the service we walked back to the hotel. Some of the guests took me on a separate route so I could see more of the town. Upon arriving we were treated to multiple cakes and pastries as well as coffee and tea. This was followed by a guided tour of the town led by a woman in costume who told many amusing stories. Fortunately daughter in law, Alexandria Lell sought me out and was able to provide translation of most of the stories. Everyone had a bit of trouble with the womans dialect. Sometimes several people translated for me so I did not feel left out.

This was followed by the Golden Anniversary dinner at 7 p.m. which was quite a feast with stories told between courses. I tried to video tape as much as possible. The party went on into the wee hours of the next morning, but 1 a.m. was my end. At 9 a.m. we met for breakfast followed by a presentation on the South Africian experience of granddaughter Lisa. She spent a year working in a kindergarten´/afterschool program on the coast. At age 20 she and a friend decided to give a year before going to university to assist in starting this project. Many of the children had no experience with playing and being part of a group or even basic sanitary functions. The girls had to organize and run the program. Dietz and Sabine had requested that instead of gifts donations to this organization be given.

A walk was next. I elected to go with those on a more even road and we had a good time visiting and walking. It seems like everyone wanted to practice their English with me. I picked up a little more German but certainly not enough for conversation. Arriving again at the hotel, it was soup time and then goodbyes. The Lell family and a few friends then drove out into the countryside to launch paper balloons made by Dietz. Apparently this is an annual event for the family. It is difficult to describe but I will post some photos. They hold the balloon while a flame fills it with hot air enough to rise. Often though it catches fire. This one launched and rose a bit before burning. Then the ashes circulated above in the wind currents. It was quite a sight.

More goodbyes and the families went their separate ways and for us a return to Ludwigsburg and coffee and cookies. Later a light meal and much conversation. Claus was the best man for the wedding 50 years ago and is an architect. He assisted in plans for new windows for the house. That involved some of Monday in addition to a walk in the Ludwigsburg Castle gardens where a large pumpkin display was featured. We lunched in the garden on pumpkin soup, apple cider, and a fall specialty onion pie somewhat like a quiche and delicious! Late afternoon, cake and an Egyptian tea back at the house.

Today it was off to Stuttgardt for a wonderful exhibit of lifetime works of Matisse followed by a delicous lunch of local specialties, eaten outside on the 5th beautiful day in a row! Then Claus and his wife went off to get their flight home to Berlin and we back to Ludwigsburg. Soon it will be time for more cake and coffee and then supper. Needless to say my clothes are becoming very tight!

I told someone "the Germans know how to party" she said "the Lells do." I have to agree.

Arrive Ludwigsburg Germany

Photos of Amsterdam canals and bicycles, flower market and Sandy and Judy make it to Bruges. Remember you can click on photos to enlarge.

I arrived here last night after multiple train connections, but fortunately they went smoothly. I was also lucky that there were very helpful young German men who assisted me with my suitcase on and off the trains. Since I last wrote from Bruges, I took the train and stopped in Cologne (did you know that is where eau de cologne came from?) to see the cathedral. It was the tallest building in the world when first built. It was begun in 1248 and so impressive. The incredible soaring height of the building makes you feel very insignificant which according to the guide book was the purpose. It was originally built to store the relics of the 3 Wise men.

I would have liked to visit a nearby museum but was concerned that I arrive early enough in Koblenz since I did not have a hotel room. The tourist information office was very helpful and booked me into a reasonable one overlooking the Rhine River. I had time to walk the town and saw the "Center of Germany" where the Mosel and Rhine Rivers meet. I also visited their cathedral which in its simplicity was quite a contrast to Cologne and one which I really preferred.

Yesterday I took a Rhine ferry from 9-1 Koblenz to Bacharch. There was a very strong current and the river is much lower than usual which made navigation interesting with all the barge and passenger boats on the river. We passed a number of castles as well as half timbered buildings in the riverside towns. There is a lot of medieval history in this area once settled by the Romans. The trees are all turning fall color and could be seen on the rather steep hillsides along the river. This section is famous for the "Loraley" rocks that supposedly lured sailors to their deaths. It is a very narrow passage on the river. The boat sound system played the Loreley music when we passed! However it was not as dramatic as the castles, in my opinion.

I am using Dietrich Lells computer to post a few photos. Still not happy with format but will try agains the next post. Today is rainy and windy and I am happy to be settled into a place I know and where I can relax. It has been a very busy 3 weeks since leaving Florida.

Goodbye Bruges

It's Monday and Bruges is a bit quieter than usual since many of the attractions and even some shops and restaurants are closed. I've really enjoyed wandering the streets particularly those away from the center market area. I walked to the train station this morning and purchased my tickets for the first leg of my trip to Germany which begins tomorrow at 9 a.m. I found Rick Steve's recommendation for chocolate. It's the last remaining shop that makes their product here in Bruges. I am stressed for suitcase space so only enough to take to share in Germany!

I tried the "best" ice cream shoppe in town and had "Mozart" which is pistachio and chocolate. Delicious. Then a fantastic grilled eggplant sandwich at a small breadshop with a communal table. Great for us loners. Today has been my first in a while on my own and I have been enjoying myself. The best news is that our Bruges tour leader negotiated with the hotel manager for me to stay one more night at the tour's 4 star hotel at a reasonable, although bit above my budget, price. I was delighted not to have to move for only one night. They also have a fantastic breakfast and I can probably get a lunch sandwich from it as well.

Our tour group had a final dinner last night at a Flemish restaurant. It was enhanced by all being at the same table in a private room. After a week plus we'd become a cohesive group and fond farewells were shared in the hotel lobby on our return. Judy and two others had a 7 a.m. pick up for the airport so I joined them for breakfast at 6:30. She was a great "cabin mate"!

Sunday we both elected to take the Flanders Fields tour which is in a small bus. It tours the battlegrounds on the 3 year standoff between the Germans and Allied Forces as well as cemeteries and monuments. It was sobbering and all you could think of was "will we ever learn?" What a waste of young lives. The other point of interest was that to this day they continue to find skelletons, artifacts and even live ammunition in the area. People are still being injured or killed by weapons from 1914-1918. It was a full day from 9-6 and we had to really shift gears to get in the celebration spirit for the tour dinner.

I'll post photos from Lell's house. I arrive there Wednesday evening. Their 50th Anniversary party will be Saturday but other guests will begin arriving on Thursday. Haven't received much news from the states, but think that is a good thing. Ignorance is bliss in this case! No political emails please. I've made up mind and will be back in time to vote!

From Belgium

It's been a week since my last post from Amsterdam. The time has flown by. I'm at an internet cafe on Saturday evening and will have to be brief. Still no chance to post photos though I have some wonderful ones.

The tour has been wonderful. The group of 24, 9 of which are lawyers has meshed surprisingly well. Our ages go from early 40's to upper 70's and all are enthusiastic bicyclers though some more than others. I've progressed to the more category, surprising myself by doing several rides over 25 miles even over 30! It has really been envigorating biking through the Dutch and Belgium countryside surrounded by canals, cows, sheep and farm land. Yesterday we even did a spontaneous bike tour of the center of Bruge, dodging cars, other bikes and pedestrians. The barge was a wonderful home. Our cabin and beds were comfortable and the food was fantastic. Unfortunately I've probably gained weight but it was worth every calorie! Our chief was so creative. Our meals out have also be delicious.

Judy and I had no problem sharing our space and have worked well together. We both thought we'd opt for the shorter rides and surprised ourselves by extending our limits. Sunday was the only day we did not ride. The weather was very cold, rainy and windy. We had done 10 miles on Saturday as a warm up. We were not the only ones to opt out on Sunday and those who did ride said it took a toll on their bodies. We did take a good walk to view the Windmill site Kinderjkik (spelling??) a UNESCO site we didn't want to miss. At that we were soaking wet when we returned to the barge. The other thing we did was spend a couple of hours in the pilot house observing our wonderful captain Josie who also is the owner of the barge.

Most evenings we had a 1-1 1/2 hours walking tour of the town where we moored. That was great as well. As the week went on the weather improved each day though our morning starts were often in some fog, and definitely chilly for the Florida girl.

Tomorrow we are doing a tour of Flanders Fields followed by a farewell dinner for the tour in Bruges. Everyone but me will depart Monday. I hope to stay one more day though I've yet to secure a room. Tuesday I'll go by train to Germany, arriving at the Lell's Wednesday night after making some stops along the way. There I'll have email and should be able to post some photos.

Leaving Amsterdam

This week has gone so quickly but I have seen alot. Today at 2 p.m. 1400 I will meet the tour group for the first time. I moved my bags to the hotel this morning. My hotel Groenhof was as expected not too great but ok for one night and convenient to the B & B and the next hotel Vondle is one block away.

Today I have been doing a walking tour of the Jordan area. Took lots of photos but still not able to plug in camera. The architecture is fascinating and most of the buildings date to the early 1600's known as the Golden Age. It is also so the period in which my ancestors walked these streets.

Wednesday in a pouring rain I took the train to the Hague. I first boarded the wrong train and the wrong class car. However it was a simple train change at Leiden, the university city, and actually I gained some time. My destination The Hague and the National Archives and Central Genealogy Bureau. I had moderate success but unfortunately could have learned more if I had ships names for the family that worked for the East Indian Company. I am rereading Coffee Trader by David Liss and he names some of the ships and indicates the company was involved in the coffee market.

I also visited Martihuis, the gallery which has the original Vermeer of the Girl with the Pearl Earring. It is stunning and just glows! Another of his famous paintings, scene of Delft is there as are Rembrandts including Anatomy Lesson. The building is part of an old Castle and interesting in itself. I also had a delicious sandwich there. I had hoped to include Delft in this day but felt it was too much. Instead I returned to Amsterdam and was able to get in a visit to the Historical Museum I was really exhausted on my return to the B & B and the rains had begun again. I just had tea and toast for dinner in my room.

Thursday I moved to the hotel prior heading for Oude Kerke and my appointment. A very lovely lady assisted me and had the family in her church record book. Adrians Hendrick de Wees and wife Hillegont Goeverts are there but her burial place is not indicated. He was buried in what was an outdoor chapel but is now with in the building. There is major renovation but we found the stone and I was able to take a photo. Probably his bones have been removed according to the records. It still was exciting for me (only another family historian could probably understand) and I looked around to share it with someone to no avail. The church lady though knew my excitement. Adrians was originally a shoemaker but later an official art dealer. I had learned this from another source but was happy to know it was in the church records.

I next made my way to the Amsterdam Archives. The people at The Hague facilities recommended this. I did not have too much luck. They indicated that going back to the 1600's was difficult. However I did locate the microfilm of the Will of Adrians which had been sited in another's research. I was able to copy the pages. Now I need to find someone who can read old Dutch! Some of the information from the Central Bureau is also in Dutch.

Today is sunny and quite cool but at least no rain. Even in the rain people are out on their bicycles with their children front and back. I'm eager to post some photos. Not sure of my next post as we'll board the barge tomorrow, Saturday.

From Amsterdam in the Netherlands

I am writing from the new central library. There are lots of computer terminals for the likes of me. A bit circuitous getting here, but then that's my style. It's quite near the Central RR station but the area has a lot of construction.

Anyway I am here and have had a busy 3 days. I will try to be brief (not likely) and unfortunately I didn't bring the connection for the camera to share photos, but this will bring you up to date on my initial part of this journey.

I flew to Chicago Friday early a.m. In the afternoon I met with the DuPage Foundation and AIANEI exec re the Larsen scholarship. It was a productive meeting generating ideas for further publicizing next year's scholarship. I was also pleased that with the market downturn the scholarship funds had not taken a big hit.

On Saturday Emily and Brett picked me up and we went to Michaels. He was working but we were able to spend time playing with granddaughter/niece Katherine who at age 11 months is babbling and patty caking and all sorts of other talents being demonstrated. Emily brought some books for Carl and Josh, Karen's boys and they really enjoyed them. We then went to Oakbrook for Emily's birthday lunch at Clubhouse. Delightful outdoor setting on a beautiful day and great food too. Last stop was a quick visit with friends Perry and Laddie Bok, the latter of whom is recovering from a recent hospitalization. It was great to see him up and around.

I checked into the airport in plenty of time. I was delighted that I had no seat mate on the plane so was able to stretch out a bit. Still it was a short night when we arrived in Dublin where I changed planes for Amsterdam. On arrival here I went to the wrong luggage carousel and it took a while to resolve that but my suitcase was among the few still circling the belt.

Then it was on to getting a train ticket, another challenge involving a machine. Then finding the correct track for my train. I had instructions sent by the Bed and Breakfast. Finally onto the train where I stood with another woman near the door as I was only going one stop. Turns out she was only going one stop. When I asked her destination and she discribed the same B & B where I was bound, I had a new friend, Grace. Together we found our way and it turned out our rooms were adjacent and we were to share the toilet, shower, and kitchen facilities!

It was a beautiful day and we took a walk through nearby Vondel Park. It was great fun to see all the people enjoying the day. Bicycles everywhere and many with children in a cart attached to the front. I even found my Thursday hotel right outside the park. Grace headed off to do some other touring. She lives in Dublin where she is a professor of Spanish. She's delivering a manuscript of her book to the University of Leiden today so her Amersterdam visit was short.

I headed back to the B & B for a nap. At 7p.m. she returned and we headed off to dinner. Our first choice had a long wait and we ended up at an Indonesian Restaurant Sumatra. Unfortunately the service was poor and we had a long wait for our food. However we had lots of time to get acquainted.

Monday Grace decided to join me in going to Anne Frank's house. It is every bit as moving and impressive as advertised. Fortunately the wait wasn't too long. Afterwards we had a total change of pace and went to the Tulip Museum where we learned all about the cultivation and harvesting of tulip bulbs. We also visiting the Delft porcelian store and had lunch nearby. I tried one of the local specialties, a savory pancake with spinach. Grace had a huge bowl of steaming hot mussels.

We then visited Neuw Kerke (New Church about 600 years old) where they had an excellent exhibit "Black is Beautiful" tracing the use of black skin people in art over the ages. It was very well done and fascinating how they displayed using elements of the church structure. We decided to go to Oude Kerke (Old Church 700 years) since it was enroute to Rembrandt house. Their art exhitit was very avant garde and the church is undergoing major renovation and seemed like a construction zone. I did inquire re graves as I have learned I may have an ancestor there from the 1600's. Unfortunately I did not have the name of the person with me but made arrangement to meet with a staff member on Thursday with the information. Rembrandt's wife Saskia is buried there and we saw her stone in the floor.

Arriving at the Rembrandt house we were turned away as it was too close to closing. It was a disappointment particularly for Grace. She headed off to make use of her I Amsterdam card on the last canal boat ride of the day while I worked my way (literally struggling to get the tram connections correct) back to the B & B. I had a dinner engagement at the home of Julie and Marc Dinsbach. Julie is the daughter of my cousin Jim in Maryland. She's been in the Netherlands 7 years and married to Dutch native Marc for 2 years. They are expecting their first child in a month. She's required to stop working 4 weeks prior to the birth and receives 4 months paid leave. Their house is an easy walk from my B & B and we had a delightful evening together including a Skype call with her parents.

Today Grace and I had breakfast together. She's done the shopping so we have fruit and toast as well as the cereal provided. I was sorry to see her go but hopefully we will connect on the internet. She gave me her I Amsterdam card to use as it was still good until 2 p.m. I used it for the Riksmuseum which features the work of Rembrandt and the Van Gough museum. It was a good way to spend a rainy day.

The B & B is outside the center city but easy connections by the frequent trams. It has a neighborhood feel which I prefer to the hotel, tourist areas. My room is quite large with a sofa as well as a bed. There are a number of shops and restaurants near by and the park is about a block away. Canals are everywhere, more than in Venice they say. I am surprised how many types of boats are on the canals both pleasure and working.

So that's my first on the road post. Hopefully I will post again on Friday with some photos. Friday afternoon I join my barge and bike trip group and we'll board the barge and have our first ride on Saturday. Hopefull the weather will improve. It's quite cool with rain and wind today. I'm happy I made a last minute decision to include my wool sweater. My best to you all.