Note: I am also posting photos today which you can find below this post.
July 15 Writing from Trout River Campground in the Tablelands area of Gros Morne National Park. I calculated today that I’ve driven more than 1100 miles in Newfoundland and most of it vertical I think. It was quite a climb to reach the campground but scenic vistas in every direction make it worthwhile. This will be my second night in a row without electric so I’m being particularly mindful of my systems, but the house battery had fully recharged when I arrived. I probably won’t make supper unless it’s a couple of tea and a cookie. I had a late but tasty lunch in Woody Point at the Lighthouse café. It consisted of two fishcakes which were described as lightly salted cod and potatoes. I pictured lumps of each but instead it was similar to a potato pancake pan fried and not at all greasy and delicious. With it was a huge bowl of baked beans sweetened with molasses, yum, yum and two slices of thick homemade bread with local specialty partridgeberry jam. Oh I forgot the mustard pickles. I ate the whole thing—but for a bit of the bread—all in the name of tasting local cuisine!
Woody Point is a charming village with a number of B & B ‘s and I could see easily spending a few days there. I was told whales had been spotted in the harbor but I didn’t see any. Cod are being caught with nets attached to large red buoys. I could see them from the shore. I know there’s strict limit on the catch, so I was surprised at this method. While waiting for my lunch I watch a group of men working with a large fish net. The waiter said they were mending and preparing the net for tonight’s fishing for herring. I asked if they would go offshore but he said they did it in this bay (referred to as “Arms”) and that there was a large supply of herring at this time. I also saw a large fishing boat at a dock, and a large truck being loaded. Obviously fishing is still a part of life here in Woody Point. Oh and they have an attractive rehabbed building that is used as a theatre though nothing happening this evening. It would definitely not be a drive I’d want to make from this camp ground.
Last night though I did go to a musical group in Cowshead from the near at hand Shallow Bay campground. At 10 p.m. there was a small amount of light but I was very watchful for moose and of course nervous about backing into the site. It went without a hitch or so I thought till I discovered in the morning light, Georgia and the bike rack were inches away from a birch tree! Anyway the group was led by Lloyd Bartlett who is a terrific guitarist. Playing with him was drummer Wilf Pardy and bass guitarist Terry Anstey all of whom had had a rock and roll career and played together at one time as Street Symphony. It was a delightful variety from Sinatra to Bachrach to Newfoundland composers including some of Bartlett’s music. A group of young people were really enthused with the music and particularly the solo guitar work. It was great to have some age variety in the audience. Surprisingly, a bus tour group, staying at the hotel did not attend. The performance was held at the Shallow Bay Hotel which is next to the Cowshead Theatre. On Mondays the theatre is dark so they have music and comedy performance in the cabaret type setting.
Of course the highlight of yesterday was the Western Brook Pond Boat tour. The day began with lots of dark threatening clouds and strong southerly winds. I was told my money would be refunded if the tour was cancelled. “Only once in my three years” I was told and that was just a couple of weeks ago. I later heard it was due to “wind devils” which sounded like water spouts in the description. My tour was at 1 p.m. and the walk from the parking lot was billed as 3 kilometers and to allow 45 minutes. Part of the walk is on board walks over bogs. Information boards explaining the landscape appear periodically. The wind was so strong, it seemed one could be blown into the bog! It looked like moose tracks (not the ice cream) in some areas. There were lots of wild flowers everywhere and spruce and fir trees. The walk was fairly strenuous but there were benches along the way.
The 10 a.m. tour was just returning when I arrived at the dock around 12:15. I had packed a lunch and water as had some others but hot dogs and snacks were available. I elected to go on the smaller boat. It seemed like it would be easier to access the bow during the trip. I took a seat near the door out to the bow but within the covered area. I suspected it would be rough seas in the open area of the pond (picture a large body of water with high cliffs said to be a billion years old around a portion of it giving the fiord feeling.) Once inside the protection from the wind, it was calmer and I went up on the bow until the boat turned around for the return trip. The pond is landlocked and the water is said to take 15 years to totally change over yet the quality is very pure. Moose and caribou are in the area and I spotted a bird (maybe a ptmargian?) nesting. There are waterfalls fed by ponds on the tops of the cliffs, and wind and water sculpted formations. Primarily though it is the sheer cliffs scoured out by glaciers that are so spectacular. At this point we had sunshine and I took a number of photos.
This is not an area for much boating. In order to bring the boats in, the small one came over the bogs when they were frozen. The larger one came in pieces by helicopter. Everyone hikes in and out. I think that remoteness adds to the experience as well. It was well worth the hike and $45 cost.
Earlier that day I backtracked a bit from Rocky Harbor and went to the Visitor Center, as always a good source of help and information. Strangely though, they could not get the introductory film to work. I guess no one ever asks. I also took a walk to the Lobster Cove lighthouse, which is very distinctive. The signboard said until it was built in the late 1800’s lamp oil was provided to people living along that area to keep lamps in their windows to serve as the warning.
This morning I awoke to rain which morphed into drizzle and fog. I did stop at the access to the nearby beach which I had hoped to walk and took photos. The signboard said this area had been a fishing village called Belltown and also the mail was delivered by foot along a shoreline trail until the highway was built in 1952.
Driving in the fog was a bit tense but eventually it was gone and the sun came out. The temperature has been very mild. While writing this we’ve had a good rain shower. I’m hopeing tomorrow morning will be clear. I want to walk a bit of the Tablelands, for which this area of the park is so noted. It looks like a moonscape and the rock is said to be the floor of an ancient ocean. The color is an orange, brown rock called peridotite and “is one of the best and most accessible examples of exposed mantle material in the world” according to the park guide. The hike is 4 K so I think I can make it if there’s not too much vertical areas.
Then it will be time to wend my way south to be staged for the ferry on Thursday afternoon.
July 16 Rain and even some thunder during the night but the day at least for my travels has been sunny and quite warm. I even saw an 85 on my thermometer. By 9:30 I was in the parking lot for the Tablelands hike of 4 k. Initially I was with a young family from Connecticut. I offered to take their photo and they returned the favor. They only went a short distance as they were headed to the West Brook Pond Boat Ride. It should be a good day for that. It was a great hike with fairly level terraine and a well groomed path. It must be a real job to keep up these paths particularly after winter. One bridge was out so there was a slight detour requiring an easy fording of a stream. What looked like glaciers were near the tops of the cliffs and gurgling water was evident in many places as well as waterfalls in the distance. It’s really quite a remarkable terrain. The rest of my walk was alone but as I was returning many were starting out. It stretches the imagine to think these rocks were once part of the earth’s mantle and are 450 million years old. The cliffs on this side are very barren and red while on the other side of the highway they appear gray in color and somewhat forested.
Continuing on, I stopped at the Hunky Dory gift shop for sentimental reasons and bought a book of photos of the park and a couple of cards. I asked about CD’s by Lloyd Bartlet who had performed at Cowhead. The owner was nice enough to send me to the Loft in Woody Point and I ended up buying 2 cds, an ice cream cone and a muffin! I spied a Roadtrek similar to mine parked near a house but no sign of life around it.
As I headed south, there were a number of RV’s heading north and a few going south but overall not much traffic. I had chosen a campground about 100 km from the ferry dock. When I arrived after 3 there appeared to be no one in attendance and not much space. It is a pretty small compact facility. The owner it turns out was mowing the lawn and he assisted me in getting into a spot. It’s not far from the toilet/shower but up a steep hill! There’s bubbling brook nearby which I hope will lull me to sleep tonight. The location is right on the TCH and sounds of trucks may muffle the brook.
I disassembled the bike rack and cleaned it and Georgia in preparation for moving them inside tomorrow morning. The purpose as was true of the last ferry ride, is to make the 20 ft. passenger vehicle limit which saves quite a bit of cost. It is a pain as I will have to unload the bike and rack before hitting the hay tomorrow in Sydney Nova Scotia. We’ll gain a half hour of time and it’s supposed to be a 6 hour ride so I should be at the campground 10-10:30 p.m. It’s a straight shot out of the parking lot but I also saved the address in Greta just in case.
My plan is to leave here early enough for one last side trip to Rose Blanche Lighthouse,one of the last granite lighthouses on the Atlantic. There also is a restaurant there, and has been recommended by Halifax friends. According to the guide, it is 45 minutes from the ferry dock so I’ll allow an hour! It seemed wise the last time to arrive early at the dock so I’m planning on 2-2:30 for a 4 p.m. departure. Of course I never tire of hanging around on boats. Hopefully this time will be clear and not foggy.
So it will be farewell to Newfoundland, but hopefully I will return again to this beautiful area.
July 17 waiting in line for the ferry. I thought I’d review last night’s writing and begin todays while waiting. I arrived at the dock at 2:20 and the wait to get in line was short. They check for potatoes and seemed surprised I hadn’t purchased any of the staple. I had heard there is a disease and they won’t allow any to be taken out.
Today’s trip south was again filled with beauty and in some parts coastal views of St. George’s Bay. As I approached Port Aux Basques, thick fog set in. I pulled into the visitor’s center to get an opinion on the drive to Rose Blanche. The encouraging receptionist said yes, there will be off and on fog, but none once in the lighthouse! I decided to start out and was pleasantly rewarded with very little fog and gorgeous scenery of moss covered rocks, bays, ponds, rivers, waterfalls and the rocky coastline of the Cabot Strait. One village is Ile aux Mortes, Island of the dead, named for the many shipwrecks. Near there was a large cemetary where every gravestone seemed to have a flower arrangement—quite colorful. To reach the lighthouse you go up a narrow dirt road and I do mean UP. There is barely room for 2 vehicles to pass. I certainly have risked more types of roads on this trip than I would have ever imagined when I first bought the vehicle.
A walk to the lighthouse was along a path looking out over the foggy coastline. The lighthouse is very impressive. It was taken out of use in the 40’s when a more automated system was installed. The tower survived due to very impressive stone steps up the tower. The remaining building was rebuilt with stone from the site by local workers and reopened as a historic landmark in 1990’s . The rooms are furnished in late 1800’s style. It is really an impressive reconstruction and the two interpreters were very informative. I asked one if the area was usually foggy. Only June and July, she replied, “we call it the caplin fog as it comes when the caplin are running.” She said because of the caplin, her husband and other fisherman are pulling in their nets. The fish go after the caplin and not after the bait. With the cost of fuel, it’s not paying to try to fish now.
I went to the Hook Line and Sinker and had even better fishcakes than those at Woody Point. No baked beans though, but a delicious homemade roll and very good coleslaw. These fish cakes seemed to contain more fish that the others. The only other patrons were the road repair crew I had passed on the way in. Their banter was fun to hear. Later I passed them again and waved “hi” feeling like we shared something! A French speaking couple arrived for poisson. Though many of the nearby areas have French names, in fact Rose Blanche, came from the French words roche Blanche or white rock so named by the early fisherman who came from France to fish the area, still I sensed the waitress was a bit unconfortable communicating in English with them. There are islands off this coast that still belong to France.
The drive back went very well with no fog. Thank goodness I took the risk. The waitress told me “just take your time and be careful.” I did just as she said. So now I await the boarding process bringing this phase of my journey to an end. I never saw a moose and I didn’t get to everything I wanted to see, but I feel very pleased that it went so well.
I’ve enjoyed listening to the cbc morning shows which are always sources of local information. Today it was reported that the town of Corner Brook, the second largest city after St. Johns, is going to start metering water usage, initially for commercial, business use and volunteer residential users. They have found that their area uses four times as much water per person that other parts of Canada. While they say there is plenty of water, their concern is leakage and waste at time went they are going to begin treating the water. Of course the citizens are worried the end result will be having to pay for it. These types of reports add a bit to understanding the life of the people here. By the way, last weekend,s Indepent Newspaper listed “beach reading” suggestions from various people including the mayor of Corner Brook who as it happens was vacationing in France and took a number of books with him.
I feel as though I’ve barely touched the surface of my experience here. I’ll post some photos but again it’s only a fraction of those taken. I’m hoping to do a slideshow that can be linked to the blog. If it works I’ll add some of Lloyd Bartlet’s music.
Another postscript: I’ve decided rough roads and holes are Newfoundland’s speed bumps and when you take them as such, you just work with them. Bugs however are a more serious complaint, but then they are in Florida as well. Last night I was dive bombed by mosquitoes having been badly bitten earlier in the day by the nasty flies.
July 18 Back at Arm of Gold Campground. Ferry left about 45 minutes late and trip was 6 ½ hours. Most of it was clear of fog and pretty smooth. A beautiful ful moon rose as we approached Nova Scotia. I was on the road by 10:15 p.m and of course it was dark. I had programmed the campground into Greta but it took her awhile, but we arrived directly along with at least 6 other tired, weary travelers and it took a while to get us all into sites. They had another load at midnight. This morning I’ve begun the wash and prepared to reinstall the bike. Hopefully I’ll leave by 10:30. The competition for dryers is the problem.
