Day 29 Juneau Miles 67 We had a leisurely start for a change and departed the campground about 9:30. First stop was Nugget Mall where we found Carhartt jeans at Alaska Outdoors, an REI type store. I tried on a lot of sale merchandise but settled for a full price hat. Judy found some pants she liked. We then visited Alaska Gourmet where she purchased a coffee making funnel, the type I use to brew a single cup, and measuring cups that will go in microwave. We then headed to town. The recommended parking at the Coast Guard facility where we parked on Wednesday was closed due to construction at the entrance. There was a spot in front of the Tracy Arm boat office. It didn’t look like regular parking but we didn’t see any signs. On our return about 6 hours later we saw a “30 minute limit” sign that had been blocked by a large van earlier. Fortunately there was no ticket on the windshield.
Starting at the Juneau/Douglas City museum to sign up for their 1:30 walking tour of the historic downtown area, we then crossed through the State Office Building where taking an elevator down saves a long stairway and leads to the State Museum. Emphasizing all of the state, there is an excellent collection of native history as well as a section on the Russian influence. We ran out of time though so decided to come back later in the day. Back to the state office building where we found a canteen, had a hot dog, and made it back to the city museum for the tour.
Marie, a life time resident of Juneau since her birth in 1925 and a descendent of those arriving in the 1890’s, was our impressive leader. One participant was from Vancouver traveling on a cruise ship, and the other an 18 year resident of Juneau who came specifically because Marie was leading the tour. To top it off it was a beautiful sunny and somewhat warm day. We first toured the state capitol which Marie remembered once also housing all the state offices and the post office. She pointed out old photographs and shared their history. As we toured about 6 blocks of the historic district she brought the various families who had owned the buildings and businesses to life including a Japanese family who ran a laundry and one of whose sons was Marie’s classmate. Before he could finish high school, his fqmily was relocated to an internment camp. (She described it as evacuation.) The building was still inscribed as “Laundry 1930”. The family never returned to Juneau. She told of the Goldsteins and the Ballantynes buildings and their various businesses. She talked of the gold miners and cannery workers as well as pointed out where the red light district had once been located, now filled with shops for the cruise ship passengers. Many of the “streets on the hillsides are actually stairways that have names and serve as addresses. Back at the museum Marie suggested we take in the video which was a further history lesson which had more meaning after the “real life” descriptions of Marie.
After checking out the recommended Silverbow bakery bagels and buying for tomorrow’s breakfast, we headed back to the State Museum for another hour. They have one of 33 globes of the planet earth that receives computer and satellite feeds from NOAA. There are a series which include weather patterns, ice formation and melt, earthquake data, and the passage of the sun over the earth with the night illuminations. Very fascinating.
Our next decision was Robert’s Tram for which we had a discount coupon. It goes up a mountain overlooking the harbor. Instead of seeking that view we drove over to Douglas, on the island across from Juneau and a more residential area. We headed north along the water until we reached a pull off with a view across to the Mendenhall glacier. This was also a boat launch area and the locals were out for an evening of fishing. Back on the Juneau side we went back to Fred Meyers store. The campground discounted our stay with a contribution to their community food pantry. Fred’s had a good buy on peanut butter so we each bought a couple of jars. We also picked up cooked chicken and salads and headed north to the end of the peninsula for a picnic at St. Theresa’s shrine. A large flat top rock was our table and we had a delightful dinner with wine over looking the Gatineau Channel and the sun going behind the mountains to the west. We will sail out this channel tomorrow on the ferry to Haines.
Day 30 Juneau to Haines By 7 a.m. I was off to the main campground building, a mobile unit containing the office, laundry room, toilet and shower facilities nicely heated. It was 9 by the time my clothes and I were clean and dry. Judy and I had bagels, cream cheese and coffee in Big Mama. I pumped my tanks, stowed the clean clothes, did the dishes and some needed straightening. Judy made yet one more trip to Fred Meyers and a gas stop. I decided to get gas at Haines thinking it might be less $$ than Juneau. I haven’t mentioned that through all of this it was raining. The temperature was tolerable but I wore my boots the whole time. We met at the ferry dock shortly after noon. The latest to check in was 12:30 for our 2:30 departure. We were in separate but adjacent lines Personnel came back and checked over the vehicles putting tape over the propane valve. They also taped someone’s broken tail light. Again the loading was incrediably slow. The number of vehicles was high and many of them motor homes. I was probably loaded almost an hour before Judy and that was at almost 2:30. I could watch her in line from the observation lounge on the ferry. We left over an hour later than scheduled.
We did enjoy halibut burgers (grilled fish on a bun) in the cafeteria. People mingled and talked of fishing, pipelines, travel. Many seemed to be workers or politicians from Juneau heading off for the weekend. I met a German couple who live in Ft. Lauderdale in the winter and are doing a car tour. They left Florida the day before I did. We were alerted to whale sightings which happened several times. Unloading at Haines took a while and when we came out of the terminal, a very rough road was the route into the small town of Haines. We finally reached the campground after 8. They had reservations for 3 of us but were willing to apply Sherrie’s deposit to my site and I’ll repay her. It was a very efficient checkin Judy wanted to find a restaurant but the closing hours were 9 and it was 9:10. One did agree to serve us a large bowl of chowder in their non smoking bar. Called the Bamboo Room, the building has a long history. Beginning as French food restaurant in the 20’s, at one time it was a bordello. The current owners took over in the 50’s and are known for their halibut fish and chips. The place has a very homey, local flavor.
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