Day 41 Miles 85 Talkeetna, AK The name Talkeetna means three rivers which reflects that merger near this small town. Our principle goal here was a 7 p.m. flight up to the Ruth Glacier of Mt. McKinley which Judy had reserved some time ago. On the Talkeetna Air Taxi it was one of the discounts on the coupon book she had purchased. Judy who has owned and flown her own plane knew a pilot who had flown for them and thus was confident with their equipment and personnel. The coupon book also featured a “float” trip on the Talkeetna River which is glacier fed and traveling at this time about 7 mph. It seemed like a good way to have a raft experience and we were able to get on the 2 p.m. departure. Four of our fellow floaters were from Florida and 2 of those from nearby Port St. Lucie. We had two rubber rafts. The oarsmen were outstanding in their strength at handling the rafts and rapid currents. We ducked in and out of small clear lakes but primarily were on the murky silt laden river. No fish or animals were to be seen however. I guess we’ve been spoiled by our previous trips. Never the less it was great to be out on the water hearing lots of bird calls and seeing some wildflowers. The day was beautiful and actually hot when you were wearing a fleece under your lifejacket! We had a great view of Mt. McKinley and the surrounding area of the Alaskan Range. It was hazy which we later learned was due to forest fires to the Northwest.
Upon our return at 4 p.m. we went over to check on our flight arrangements only to find they had us booked on a flight that did not land on the glacier. They were willing though to take us on the 5 p.m. if we could get to the airport by 4:45. Needless to say we grabbed what we could and headed over in Judy’s Trek. Mine was parked in front of a “private Parking” sign which I had neglected to notice when arriving at 1:20 p.m. Oh well, this wasn’t the first time!
We never had lunch since we barely arrived in time for the float trip so all this was done on what we could quickly put our hands on, for me half a pear, an energy bar (thanks so much Kate!) and a handful of almonds. At the airport we signed in and gave a phone number for emergency contact. We were weighed with all our gear. Our 4 companions were men helping one of them celebrate his 50th year driving the Alaska highway (He commented that over those years the changes in the highway had saved 13 hours in the trip from Anchorage to Dawson City). Before coming to the airport they had been panning for gold but decided the weather was perfect for a trip up the mountains. Our plane was a 7 passenger Beaver which I guess has been around for a while and no longer manufactured (since the 60’s). It is slow but that made for a great flight as we dipped around the mountain peaks. Our pilot, Richard, was terrific at explaining what we were seeing and handling the aircraft. We each had ear phones to hear his commentary and that of other traffic. What a magnificent scene of craggy peaks, glaciers in various stages, snow banks seeming close enough to touch. The touchdown on the Ruth glacier which originates on Mt. McKinley seemed easy. I’m not sure of our altitude but it must have been at least 8000. We were above the base camps for the climbers. This is a very popular area for different types of climbing and considered by many to have more challenge than Everest. Talkeetna is where they gather to fly up to the base camp and pilot radio transmissions for this could be heard during our flight. “Talkeetna, the small town with the climbing problem” is one of the mottos here.
When we got out of the plane, there was about a half foot of soft wet snow under our supplied gortex boots. Amazingly it wasn’t that cold though I had on my fleece with a wind breaker cover. Our pilot had on a short sleeve tropical shirt! Of course throughout the trip we took photos constantly and hopefully I’ll share some soon. Two other planes from a competitor were also there but parked a distance away. It was fascinating to see them take off going down the slope and around a curve. As we took off, Richard said, “see we are off the ground and still going down.” He traced this glacier to the end to show how it changes. Where we landed was 3000 ft. thick. It is moving 3 inches a day and small aqua pools of water are some surface melting. Layers of soil/silt cover areas and actually provide insulation. Further down trees are growing on top of the glacier. All this put into my imagination the way the “land” looked during the ice ages. It probably was not all ice as I had pictured. All I can say is WOW what an experience!
Finally we retrieved Big Mama and headed for the campground Judy had chosen. Fortunately there was still space at Talkeetna Camper Park. We were offered the opportunity to double up on one of the large spaces and save $10 which we did. Then we purchased $3 tokens for the showers. It is a nice park backing up to the railroad. Mosquitoes are thick though and a number joined me for the night! After parking Judy’s van, Big Mama took us back into town for a delicious dinner, red pepper soup with crab and an oriental salmon wrap half of which will be tomorrow’s lunch. That was topped off with ice cream at the old Nagley’s General store on Main St. We saw a number of places we would like to stop in tomorrow before heading for Denali National Pak.
Day 42 Miles 157 Denali National Park Riley Campground Wolf Loop Site82 Arrived at the Park a little before 5 p.m. Checked in at the Mercantile Center was very slow. They seemed to have plenty of room and had our reservation but indicated to “choose your space”. Many are designed more for a car and tent but we fit into the car spot fortunately. The toilets are much better than expected (flush not pit) and look quite new. Showers are usually available at the Mercantile Center but are closed now for a new floor. Internet is also available at the Mercantile or Visitors Center near RR station, and the cell phone has good reception, also unexpected. There are at least 4 other Roadtreks here, one a couple from Northern New Hampshire. A ranger program at 7:30 in the nearby amphitheater was a good introduction to some of the small plant and animal life in this 6 million acre park.
Judy is having difficulty with her “house” batteries (her vehicle has 2; mine has 1) She had a similar problem in the early days of her trip but not there seems to be no charge at all. Generator restrictions are quite strict here: 8-10a.m. and 6-8p.m. Fortunately she is used to dry camping.
The morning started leisurely which was good since all my mosquito friends and the abutting railroad trains disturbed my sleep and it was almost 9 when I awoke for good. The shower was good but again mosquitoes for company. We headed into Talkeetna and visited some of the shops before leaving. Lots of people from the cruise ship excursions were in town. Fortunately they don’t need parking. By the way Talkeetna is one of the towns the on which tv show Northern Experience is based.
I missed the Wal-Mike’s that is written up. It looked full of “stuff” and I wasn’t up to even browsing. Several opportunities along the road for McKinley views but again I passed the opportunity. The view today is not nearly as clear as yesterday and all pales compared to our flight yesterday, up close and personal.
The big event today was that enroute to the camp amphitheater, a young couple motioned me over to point out a huge moose with her calf not 200 years from their campsite. Her legs looked as long as I am tall. Judy was able to get a photo. The moose seemed oblivious to us continuing to munch on the spruce trees. The young one seemed more hesitant. During the rangers talk, someone came to tell us of the moose being close by but it never appeared and the ranger did not seem concerned. She did say to watch the moose ears. If they are laid back, the moose may charge!
Day 43 The alarm was set for 5:45 a.m. and I was sound asleep. We needed to be at the bus shuttle by 6:50. Fortunately it was not far from our camp sites. This shuttle took us to the Wilderness Center where we would catch the bus for our all day Kantisha Experience. This is the longest tour both in time and miles, the full length of the 93 mile park access road. Our 7:20 bus arrived about 7:30 and we were able to get seats toward the front on the left as had been recommended. Many of our fellow passengers seemed to be doing part of a cruise ship package and the driver confirmed that was the bulk of their business. The driver Lisa has been in Alaska since the early 80’s when she hitchhiked from Montana. She’s 50 but looks younger, came in 47th in the Idilarod a few years ago and trains sled dogs. She’s also been a commercial fish captain out of Kodiak and will do halibut in the fall. In addition she’s written a book “Running with Champions” and is working on one about sourdough. She is a wealth of knowledge and full of fresh enthusiasm. We were so fortunate to draw her as our driver as she only does this route one day every two weeks. I can understand why as the road is very challenging. For the most part it is one lane gravel road with twists and turns up and down the passes with sheer dropoffs. McKinley/Denali was not visible with the low cloud cover.
We were also fortunate that the passengers were great animal spotters. We saw at least four groups of bears, the last of which seemed to be a mama and two cubs which were playing with each other. We saw moose, caribou, marmot, red fox, bald eagles which are rare here and one appeared to be eating a young moose, snowshoe hare, arctic squirrel, dall sheep, red squirrel, ptmargian, the state bird both parents and young on a nest, artic tern, magpie, and raven. That’s what I remember. Photos were taken out of the window with the zoom. We did a walking tour at the end of the road, led by a ranger Jamie from the Moose Creek ranger station, who works at Everglades National Park in the winter. She led us on a walk near Wonder Lake and again in an area where gold prospecters lived. She told stories of those days including that of Fannie Quiqley whose reconstructed cabin we saw. They handed our mosquito hats but I had my mosquito jacket purchased in 2004 in Nova Scotia to ward off Florida “no see-ums”. It’s getting lots of use. There was no wind and the mosquitoes were about as thick as I’ve ever seen. Jamie was amazing to not be bothered by them and fellow passengers were good sports too.
The bus seats were quite comfortable and lunch sacks provided more than enough food and drink for the day. I would recommend this trip for those who can take 12 hours on a bus, but the two walks with Jamie and several other stops plus popping up and down for animal photos did provide movement. We were dropped off at the campground at 8 p.m.
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Alaska Bound Day 40
Note: I've added links to a map and to Judy's blog. The map was set up by Judy but I've added my trip beginning. I will update with my various stops enroute as time and internet access allow.
Day 40 Miles 46 Wassilla AK Home area of “you know who” . We are at the home of Gunnel’s daughter Christina which has a Palmer mailing address but is between Palmer and Wassilla. She is manager of the new Target store in Wassilla. We shopped yesterday at the Target in north Anchorage where her husband is manager.
I was up early and telephoned Donna the friend of Florida friend Jerry. Donna is from the Chicago area but has been working in Alaska for some years with the cruise lines. She works the gift shop on the trains. So all you Alaska Cruise people look for her. Jerry had sent me via Donna some of her Alaska materials. We met for breakfast at County Kitchen and enjoyed exchanging information. She recommended we get to the Anchorage Museum for the 10 a.m. docent tour which turned out to be a fantastic suggestion.
A very diminutive Peg a former teacher was a incredible interpreter of the history of Alaska history from the beginning of the migration across the ice bridge that formed across the north (not through the Aleutians as I had pictured.) Lifesize dioramas portraying the various groups living arrangement were extremely well detailed. Faces were made from living descendants of the groups. Peg’s energetic presentation and personal knowledge of some of the native villages added much to the visual presentation. Her daughter was with Alaska fish and game and she often traveled with her to the villages. This daughter, a breast cancer survivor, participates in the Iditarod race. This year she came in 13 and wore pink!
We toured the some of the art exhibit which included drawing and paintings by early exporation team members. Much of the information of those early times and peoples that we had seen represented in the dioramas was illustrated by these artists reinforcing the authenticity of the exhibits. It was wonderful to have it all in the same building.
Parking the Roadtreks in a city can be challenging but we happened on a lot that had just been resurfaced and was adjacent to the Museum and to the downtown enclosed mall. You pay by credit card with minimum $4 for 2 hours. We ended up staying 4 hours or $8, the same as the museum admission. We had lunch in the museum café and of course went to the wonderful gift shop. This museum is undergoing an extensive remodeling with additions and is a fantastic facility. They have a traveling exhibit on gold but we didn’t take time for that. We did visit the mall where Judy was able to get her glasses repaired at a Lens Crafter shop in short order.
We next headed to Suburban Propane back in the Ship Creek area. I have run my furnace so much and though my gage showed ¾ full I decided to fill up. It took 3.2 so I am happy I did so. By then it was getting past 3 and we felt we needed to head north which unfortunately meant that my last stop to visit sailing friends of friends could not be included. We would have also like to visit the Native Cultural Center. Perhaps there will be another time to do more in Anchorage.
Day 40 Miles 46 Wassilla AK Home area of “you know who” . We are at the home of Gunnel’s daughter Christina which has a Palmer mailing address but is between Palmer and Wassilla. She is manager of the new Target store in Wassilla. We shopped yesterday at the Target in north Anchorage where her husband is manager.
I was up early and telephoned Donna the friend of Florida friend Jerry. Donna is from the Chicago area but has been working in Alaska for some years with the cruise lines. She works the gift shop on the trains. So all you Alaska Cruise people look for her. Jerry had sent me via Donna some of her Alaska materials. We met for breakfast at County Kitchen and enjoyed exchanging information. She recommended we get to the Anchorage Museum for the 10 a.m. docent tour which turned out to be a fantastic suggestion.
A very diminutive Peg a former teacher was a incredible interpreter of the history of Alaska history from the beginning of the migration across the ice bridge that formed across the north (not through the Aleutians as I had pictured.) Lifesize dioramas portraying the various groups living arrangement were extremely well detailed. Faces were made from living descendants of the groups. Peg’s energetic presentation and personal knowledge of some of the native villages added much to the visual presentation. Her daughter was with Alaska fish and game and she often traveled with her to the villages. This daughter, a breast cancer survivor, participates in the Iditarod race. This year she came in 13 and wore pink!
We toured the some of the art exhibit which included drawing and paintings by early exporation team members. Much of the information of those early times and peoples that we had seen represented in the dioramas was illustrated by these artists reinforcing the authenticity of the exhibits. It was wonderful to have it all in the same building.
Parking the Roadtreks in a city can be challenging but we happened on a lot that had just been resurfaced and was adjacent to the Museum and to the downtown enclosed mall. You pay by credit card with minimum $4 for 2 hours. We ended up staying 4 hours or $8, the same as the museum admission. We had lunch in the museum café and of course went to the wonderful gift shop. This museum is undergoing an extensive remodeling with additions and is a fantastic facility. They have a traveling exhibit on gold but we didn’t take time for that. We did visit the mall where Judy was able to get her glasses repaired at a Lens Crafter shop in short order.
We next headed to Suburban Propane back in the Ship Creek area. I have run my furnace so much and though my gage showed ¾ full I decided to fill up. It took 3.2 so I am happy I did so. By then it was getting past 3 and we felt we needed to head north which unfortunately meant that my last stop to visit sailing friends of friends could not be included. We would have also like to visit the Native Cultural Center. Perhaps there will be another time to do more in Anchorage.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Alaska Bound Days 38 & 39
Day 38 Miles 175 Hope AK Porcupine Creek Campground Chugach National Forest. (Note: I finally put my computer on Alaska time. I don’t know if anyone took note but with it being on Florida time, it appeared I was posting the blog in the wee hours of the morning!) By 10 a.m. most of the camp sites between me and the water had cleared out and I had a fantastic view! Unfortunately it was time for me to pull the power cord and head out of Homer. It would be better to be here on a week day I think. I had the impression many here were weekenders. Also there are several other camp grounds on the spit. I would check those out too. Homer Spit Rv seems the most popular perhaps because it is an easy walk to shops and restaurants, but nothing is very far. Heritage Park, Mariner Park and one that might be a municipal one are on the end of the spit toward town.
I went to Safeway to connect to the internet as I had never succeeded with anything but email with the campground’s connection. I also picked up some fruit and a Sunday Anchorage Daily News. Judy and Gunnel were at the store and soon we were all headed north. The drive seemed much more enjoyable in this direction. I don’t know if it was because I was fresher or the orientation to the water was better. It was also a beautiful sunny day so everything looked better. There still was a lot of traffic however and some road construction with work on Sunday. A number of boats were being trailered. These are a lobsterboat type design but look like they are built to withstand heavy, icy seas. On top was lashed an inflated inflatable (dinghy?) that seemed almost as long as the boat itself.
We stopped in Soldaton or as I call it the town with all the stoplights and franchises, and I topped off my tank. Lunch was eaten at a state park along the Kenai River. Lots of people were out enjoying the beautiful day. I had selected a campground that was part of the Chugach National Forest. The surrounding area had road construction and I had a funny feeling it might impact the campground. Sure enough a big CLOSED sign greeted us. We pulled out books and maps and decided to follow AAA recommendation for another National Forest campground. This required a drive away from route 1 and turned out to be very scenic and paved all the way into the campground. Even the sites were paved and not the gravel we’ve had lately. No water or electric but we had a fantastic dinner cooked outdoors on Judy’s grill. We cut up lots of vegetables and marinated them. She added ribeye steaks to the tasty meal. Gunnel had purchased wine so we really had a party complete with a campfire. In the beautiful wooded setting, it was idyllic.
Day 39 Miles 95 Ship Creek RV Park, Anchorage Another beautiful day and following breakfast we took an hour hike along the wooded trail that runs parallel to the water. We are on Turnagain Arm which is off the Cook Inlet. The tides here are second only to the Bay of Fundy. There was a nice breeze but we were shedding layers before returning to the camp ground. The wind had really increased on our return and there was a warning not to take the path on windy days because of all the damaged spruce trees. We had seen many toppled over. The disease caused by a beetle has caused a lot of destruction in all the areas we have travelled.
I ran my generator as I prepared my lunch using the microwave. I was very pleased that the new battery held its charge well. We’ll be dry camping 3 nights at Denali National Park and will have to depend on our own resources. I haven’t decided whether to get propane or not. The temperature has been rising and I haven’t used the heater in a couple of nights.
We left the campground reluctantly. It is the nicest campground I think I have been in on the whole trip. Heading back along the Hope Highway and then north on the Alaska Highway, we arrived at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. There were bison, muskoxen, moose, black tail deer, reindeer, and bears all behind fences. However seeing them away from their natural habitat was not the same. I realize they are doing important work here but I’ve seen so much as recent as yesterday when a moose meandered across the road in front of us. (Fortunately we were stopped.) They have a better than usual gift shop though. We also stopped at a roadside area overlooking the Turnagain Arm and Cook Inlet confluence. The full moon tides had the water all a-swirl. July and August this is supposed to be a good site to view Beluga whales. Passing by here was a “Princess” train headed from Anchorage to a cruise ship in Seward. The passengers were seated in dome cars with linen tablecloths. The speed at which the train was traveling made me think they were not able to take full advantage of the view.
Anchorage was another of the places where I kept changing the RV reservations as our numbers and dates changed. I had to work through a travel agency and prepay. I finally cancelled the other day when our plans were still fluid. We chose an RV park that looked like a good location, from an ad in the Milepost book. Arriving amidst rush hour traffic with road construction added in, we pulled into the worst looking RV park I’ve seen. It’s Creekwood Inn and RV. The cost was going to be $41 which was particularly painful after last night’s $7 . We decided to try the original RV park location, Ship Creek. I’d heard mixed reviews about that area. The railroad runs alongside the park. However compared to Creekwood, it was fine and the cost was the same As is typical of RV parks in a city, it is very close quarters. I could hand my neighbor a cup of coffee. However the laundry is nice and is where I am writing this.
Tomorrow I will get together with friends of friends and also visit the newly redone Museum of History and Art and hopefully the Native Center. Anchorage is very spread out, some calling it Los Anchorage. In some ways it is too bad to have such a short time, but somehow the congestion just makes me want to run the other way. For those living here, they don’t have far to go to reach beautiful scenic areas.
I went to Safeway to connect to the internet as I had never succeeded with anything but email with the campground’s connection. I also picked up some fruit and a Sunday Anchorage Daily News. Judy and Gunnel were at the store and soon we were all headed north. The drive seemed much more enjoyable in this direction. I don’t know if it was because I was fresher or the orientation to the water was better. It was also a beautiful sunny day so everything looked better. There still was a lot of traffic however and some road construction with work on Sunday. A number of boats were being trailered. These are a lobsterboat type design but look like they are built to withstand heavy, icy seas. On top was lashed an inflated inflatable (dinghy?) that seemed almost as long as the boat itself.
We stopped in Soldaton or as I call it the town with all the stoplights and franchises, and I topped off my tank. Lunch was eaten at a state park along the Kenai River. Lots of people were out enjoying the beautiful day. I had selected a campground that was part of the Chugach National Forest. The surrounding area had road construction and I had a funny feeling it might impact the campground. Sure enough a big CLOSED sign greeted us. We pulled out books and maps and decided to follow AAA recommendation for another National Forest campground. This required a drive away from route 1 and turned out to be very scenic and paved all the way into the campground. Even the sites were paved and not the gravel we’ve had lately. No water or electric but we had a fantastic dinner cooked outdoors on Judy’s grill. We cut up lots of vegetables and marinated them. She added ribeye steaks to the tasty meal. Gunnel had purchased wine so we really had a party complete with a campfire. In the beautiful wooded setting, it was idyllic.
Day 39 Miles 95 Ship Creek RV Park, Anchorage Another beautiful day and following breakfast we took an hour hike along the wooded trail that runs parallel to the water. We are on Turnagain Arm which is off the Cook Inlet. The tides here are second only to the Bay of Fundy. There was a nice breeze but we were shedding layers before returning to the camp ground. The wind had really increased on our return and there was a warning not to take the path on windy days because of all the damaged spruce trees. We had seen many toppled over. The disease caused by a beetle has caused a lot of destruction in all the areas we have travelled.
I ran my generator as I prepared my lunch using the microwave. I was very pleased that the new battery held its charge well. We’ll be dry camping 3 nights at Denali National Park and will have to depend on our own resources. I haven’t decided whether to get propane or not. The temperature has been rising and I haven’t used the heater in a couple of nights.
We left the campground reluctantly. It is the nicest campground I think I have been in on the whole trip. Heading back along the Hope Highway and then north on the Alaska Highway, we arrived at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. There were bison, muskoxen, moose, black tail deer, reindeer, and bears all behind fences. However seeing them away from their natural habitat was not the same. I realize they are doing important work here but I’ve seen so much as recent as yesterday when a moose meandered across the road in front of us. (Fortunately we were stopped.) They have a better than usual gift shop though. We also stopped at a roadside area overlooking the Turnagain Arm and Cook Inlet confluence. The full moon tides had the water all a-swirl. July and August this is supposed to be a good site to view Beluga whales. Passing by here was a “Princess” train headed from Anchorage to a cruise ship in Seward. The passengers were seated in dome cars with linen tablecloths. The speed at which the train was traveling made me think they were not able to take full advantage of the view.
Anchorage was another of the places where I kept changing the RV reservations as our numbers and dates changed. I had to work through a travel agency and prepay. I finally cancelled the other day when our plans were still fluid. We chose an RV park that looked like a good location, from an ad in the Milepost book. Arriving amidst rush hour traffic with road construction added in, we pulled into the worst looking RV park I’ve seen. It’s Creekwood Inn and RV. The cost was going to be $41 which was particularly painful after last night’s $7 . We decided to try the original RV park location, Ship Creek. I’d heard mixed reviews about that area. The railroad runs alongside the park. However compared to Creekwood, it was fine and the cost was the same As is typical of RV parks in a city, it is very close quarters. I could hand my neighbor a cup of coffee. However the laundry is nice and is where I am writing this.
Tomorrow I will get together with friends of friends and also visit the newly redone Museum of History and Art and hopefully the Native Center. Anchorage is very spread out, some calling it Los Anchorage. In some ways it is too bad to have such a short time, but somehow the congestion just makes me want to run the other way. For those living here, they don’t have far to go to reach beautiful scenic areas.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Alaska Bound Days 35-37
Day 35 Seward Gunnel and Judy brought their breakfast over about 7:30. We headed for the tour office on foot. Seward has a wonderful walking path along the water. Not sure if I mentioned that our campsites front on the water as well. Cruise ships and freighters pass by heading to docks and sailboat were out yesterday. The walk was about 15 minutes. After checking in we perused the gift shop and then boarded at 9:30. It is such a nice boat, well appointed and very comfortable. We choose seats at a table on the upper deck. There were only 37 passengers on a boat that could take well over 100. Captain Chris was a wonderful guide and the 3 mates were always ready to help particularly in pointing out the wildlife as well as seeing there was plenty of coffee and hot water for tea.
We hadn’t gone far when Chris pointed out 3 separate pods of Orcas also known as Killer Whales. These are in the dolphin family and follow boats more like dolphins. They were very active all around us. He cut the engine so we could just drift and watch. It was an incredible experience. We turned toward the glacier area where we could see two glaciers before arriving at our destination, the Alialik. These glaciers are part of the Harding Icefield as is Exit which we saw last night. At the glacier Chris also cut the engine so we could hear the sound of the glacier. He said though that the sound would come after the sight of the glacier calving so we all kept our eyes on the massive ice right in front of us. There were also harbor seals about. We witnessed a number of incidences of calving, one piece of which Chris said was the size of our vessel. He had anticipated this and moved the boat a bit further out. His years of experience showed throughout the trip.
Reluctantly we had to leave but we saw sea otters, humpback whales, Stellar sea lion (now considered endangered species), and Dahl porpoises. Among the birds we saw two types of puffins, horned and tufted, in the water and nesting, eagles, Cormorants , Murres, Artic terns, Black Legged kittiwakes also nesting, and gulls. The rocky cliffs were filled with birds as was often the air around and above.
Dinner was at a lodge owned by the tour company which also houses overnight guests. A park ranger presented a talk on the park while we ate. We returned to Seward awe struck by this incredible opportunity to see so many species up close and personal in a phenomenal setting not to mention the glacier . What an experience of a lifetime. Anyone visiting this area should be sure to do this tour.
Our walk back to the campground was in a light rain which changed to a steady rain as the evening wore on. We sipped some of Judy’s port while making plans for tomorrow. “Don’t you ever take a day off?” Gunnel asked. Of course today we didn’t drive at all which was like a day off!
Day 36 Miles 185 Seward to Homer I am writing this from Homer spit Campground overlooking the rocky beach and water as the sun is starting to lower in the sky at 10:10 p.m. it will rise again about 4 a.m. The tides tonight will be about a 20 foot range and I’m hoping to view some tide pools at low tide in the morning. Homer is on the west side of the Kenai Peninsula and Seward on the East. To get from one to another you must first travel north, then southwest and finally southeast.
We began our day with a visit to Seward’s fantastic Sea Life Center. In addition to being a great interactive mari facility, they do research and rescue of sea life as well. It was particularly interesting to learn more about some of the species we saw yesterday and even see a live web cam of the Stellar Sea Lions on the rocks with their young, some of which were new born. We were also able to see the Puffins as they swam underwater. Part of the cost for the facility was from the Exon Valdez settlement.
After a few gift shop purchases we headed to Safeway for some foodstuffs including lunch supplies. Our departure from Seward was about 11:30. Around 12:30 we stopped in the Russian and Kenai Rivers area. This is supposed to be great salmon fishing. The season will not begin until June 11 and will be very limited in time and allowable catch. There were also signs regarding the deterioration of the shoreline and how that was detrimental to the salmon “fry” which I gather is the young. They have provided metal stairs to get down to the water without walking on the banks and request the fishermen wade into the stream rather than fish from edge. There were also instructions on proper catch and release.
The sun was in and out and we elected to eat in Judy’s trek but had a good view of the river. There was more traffic on the road than we’d seen in a long time. This peninsula is very popular for weekend visits by those living in Anchorage. A number of the vehicles were motor homes. School is now out in Alaska so vacations are probably starting. Many people rent RV’s in Anchorage, 225 miles north of there (which is probably more sensible than driving from Florida!) and come here at the beginning or end of their trip.
We made a mid afternoon stop for ice cream. This drive seems much longer and not nearly as scenic as the one to Seward. We even passed a town with multiple stoplights and national franchises. That hasn’t been the case in a long time. However as we approached Homer we followed the water and came down a long hill overlooking the entire area including the “spit” where I am tonight. We first stopped at the home of friends of Judy’s. They live in a very high area. Judy and Gunnel are staying there tonight. I begged off as I had guaranteed this campsite and was looking forward to being on the water. It will probably be my last waterfront campground at least for a while. After enjoying my leftovers from the other night I walked along the boat harbor and took some photos. I have not had time to put any photos on the computer in a long time. I am hoping I can devote some time to that this weekend and secure a strong enough internet site to post them for viewing. It will be difficult to cull them out. I appreciate hearing from some of you on email. I am sorry that I can’t seem to have time to answer but know that I am enjoying hearing your news and will reply eventually. Now I’m going to try to see a sunset!
Day 37 Homer Spit RV Park I didn’t make it until sunset which was after 11 and by 4 it was light again. Amazingly I slept until almost 8 so not much luck with the tide pools either. I did walk the rocky beach and collected some rocks. Judy and Gunnel picked me up and we headed into Homer to see the Pratt Museum. Their featured collection is in memory of the 1989 Exon Valdez Oil Spill the consequences of which are still very evident in the area as stormy seas and tides bring up the oil that sunk and the disruption in peoples lives continues. Works of art depicting the grief and anger were part of the presentation as well as recorded voices of local people. Other exhibits included life at sea, early homesteaders, local wildlife and sea life and some local art. Weather was also featured as was volcano and earthquake activity which play a major role in the life here. A nearby volcano on Mt. Redoubt has been active since spring and ash is still evident in places. The 1964 earthquake did major damage including destroying the area on which I am camping. As we paid our admission, the woman at the desk knew Stuart because she lived in Jensen Beach for a couple of years. The woman in the gift shop is of Russian heritage and lives in a Russian dominated village on the east end of the area. Another volunteer was interpreting in a pioneer cabin and told of her life in such a cabin in the 1980’s. I suspect a lot of these are still inhabited now.
A delicious lunch at Fat Olives followed by a Mead tasting at a local producer, Ring of Fire, mellowed us for the afternoon. We also enjoyed some fascinating exhibits at an art center and additional ecological information at Islands and Oceans visitor center sited on a hill and reached by a footpath. A brisk cold wind chilled us but otherwise it was very sunny.
We met Judy’s friends for a great fish dinner at Captain Pattys here on the Spit. The plans for tomorrow are to begin to work our way to Anchorage.
We hadn’t gone far when Chris pointed out 3 separate pods of Orcas also known as Killer Whales. These are in the dolphin family and follow boats more like dolphins. They were very active all around us. He cut the engine so we could just drift and watch. It was an incredible experience. We turned toward the glacier area where we could see two glaciers before arriving at our destination, the Alialik. These glaciers are part of the Harding Icefield as is Exit which we saw last night. At the glacier Chris also cut the engine so we could hear the sound of the glacier. He said though that the sound would come after the sight of the glacier calving so we all kept our eyes on the massive ice right in front of us. There were also harbor seals about. We witnessed a number of incidences of calving, one piece of which Chris said was the size of our vessel. He had anticipated this and moved the boat a bit further out. His years of experience showed throughout the trip.
Reluctantly we had to leave but we saw sea otters, humpback whales, Stellar sea lion (now considered endangered species), and Dahl porpoises. Among the birds we saw two types of puffins, horned and tufted, in the water and nesting, eagles, Cormorants , Murres, Artic terns, Black Legged kittiwakes also nesting, and gulls. The rocky cliffs were filled with birds as was often the air around and above.
Dinner was at a lodge owned by the tour company which also houses overnight guests. A park ranger presented a talk on the park while we ate. We returned to Seward awe struck by this incredible opportunity to see so many species up close and personal in a phenomenal setting not to mention the glacier . What an experience of a lifetime. Anyone visiting this area should be sure to do this tour.
Our walk back to the campground was in a light rain which changed to a steady rain as the evening wore on. We sipped some of Judy’s port while making plans for tomorrow. “Don’t you ever take a day off?” Gunnel asked. Of course today we didn’t drive at all which was like a day off!
Day 36 Miles 185 Seward to Homer I am writing this from Homer spit Campground overlooking the rocky beach and water as the sun is starting to lower in the sky at 10:10 p.m. it will rise again about 4 a.m. The tides tonight will be about a 20 foot range and I’m hoping to view some tide pools at low tide in the morning. Homer is on the west side of the Kenai Peninsula and Seward on the East. To get from one to another you must first travel north, then southwest and finally southeast.
We began our day with a visit to Seward’s fantastic Sea Life Center. In addition to being a great interactive mari facility, they do research and rescue of sea life as well. It was particularly interesting to learn more about some of the species we saw yesterday and even see a live web cam of the Stellar Sea Lions on the rocks with their young, some of which were new born. We were also able to see the Puffins as they swam underwater. Part of the cost for the facility was from the Exon Valdez settlement.
After a few gift shop purchases we headed to Safeway for some foodstuffs including lunch supplies. Our departure from Seward was about 11:30. Around 12:30 we stopped in the Russian and Kenai Rivers area. This is supposed to be great salmon fishing. The season will not begin until June 11 and will be very limited in time and allowable catch. There were also signs regarding the deterioration of the shoreline and how that was detrimental to the salmon “fry” which I gather is the young. They have provided metal stairs to get down to the water without walking on the banks and request the fishermen wade into the stream rather than fish from edge. There were also instructions on proper catch and release.
The sun was in and out and we elected to eat in Judy’s trek but had a good view of the river. There was more traffic on the road than we’d seen in a long time. This peninsula is very popular for weekend visits by those living in Anchorage. A number of the vehicles were motor homes. School is now out in Alaska so vacations are probably starting. Many people rent RV’s in Anchorage, 225 miles north of there (which is probably more sensible than driving from Florida!) and come here at the beginning or end of their trip.
We made a mid afternoon stop for ice cream. This drive seems much longer and not nearly as scenic as the one to Seward. We even passed a town with multiple stoplights and national franchises. That hasn’t been the case in a long time. However as we approached Homer we followed the water and came down a long hill overlooking the entire area including the “spit” where I am tonight. We first stopped at the home of friends of Judy’s. They live in a very high area. Judy and Gunnel are staying there tonight. I begged off as I had guaranteed this campsite and was looking forward to being on the water. It will probably be my last waterfront campground at least for a while. After enjoying my leftovers from the other night I walked along the boat harbor and took some photos. I have not had time to put any photos on the computer in a long time. I am hoping I can devote some time to that this weekend and secure a strong enough internet site to post them for viewing. It will be difficult to cull them out. I appreciate hearing from some of you on email. I am sorry that I can’t seem to have time to answer but know that I am enjoying hearing your news and will reply eventually. Now I’m going to try to see a sunset!
Day 37 Homer Spit RV Park I didn’t make it until sunset which was after 11 and by 4 it was light again. Amazingly I slept until almost 8 so not much luck with the tide pools either. I did walk the rocky beach and collected some rocks. Judy and Gunnel picked me up and we headed into Homer to see the Pratt Museum. Their featured collection is in memory of the 1989 Exon Valdez Oil Spill the consequences of which are still very evident in the area as stormy seas and tides bring up the oil that sunk and the disruption in peoples lives continues. Works of art depicting the grief and anger were part of the presentation as well as recorded voices of local people. Other exhibits included life at sea, early homesteaders, local wildlife and sea life and some local art. Weather was also featured as was volcano and earthquake activity which play a major role in the life here. A nearby volcano on Mt. Redoubt has been active since spring and ash is still evident in places. The 1964 earthquake did major damage including destroying the area on which I am camping. As we paid our admission, the woman at the desk knew Stuart because she lived in Jensen Beach for a couple of years. The woman in the gift shop is of Russian heritage and lives in a Russian dominated village on the east end of the area. Another volunteer was interpreting in a pioneer cabin and told of her life in such a cabin in the 1980’s. I suspect a lot of these are still inhabited now.
A delicious lunch at Fat Olives followed by a Mead tasting at a local producer, Ring of Fire, mellowed us for the afternoon. We also enjoyed some fascinating exhibits at an art center and additional ecological information at Islands and Oceans visitor center sited on a hill and reached by a footpath. A brisk cold wind chilled us but otherwise it was very sunny.
We met Judy’s friends for a great fish dinner at Captain Pattys here on the Spit. The plans for tomorrow are to begin to work our way to Anchorage.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Alaska Bound Days 31-34
Day 31 Sunshine in Haines AK Miles 202 Judy drove for a further tour of Haines including a search for smoked fish. Apparently there was a big fishing derby going on so no one was around. We did a walk around Ft. Seward. This area was purchased from the US army in the late 40’s by some service men and now is on the National register. Many of the original buildings have been converted to residences. A cruise ship dock is at the base of the hill and receives some small ships. A store owner said “the cruise ship companies want to own the shops and Haines would not agree like Skagway did.” Perhaps because of the fishing tournament, the town was very quiet. The Mountain Market coffee shop and health food store was the only busy place we saw.
We were on the road north by 11. I bought gas which turned out to be 50 cents more than Juneau! Bad decision there. Then it was pumped by an attendant who could not coax enough to reach full. I stopped again for gas at Haines Junction Yukon where it was back to liters and Canadian money. We crossed the border 40 miles north of Haines. Initially the route is in the far corner of BC but then goes into the Yukon territory. The scenery was awesome. Snowy mountain tops of Kluane National Park with areas that felt quite desolate with few cars on the road. We stopped at the highest point of the Haines highway for a photo op. Temperatures dropped as low as 40. Haines Junction was our late lunch stop at the Village Bakery. A better name would be Temptations. Everything looked good but I settled on salmon soup and a slice of Greek style pizza. They also sold local “cold” smoked salmon and each of us selected some. Tempting as it was I passed on the wonderful breads, muffins, and cookies. It was a busy place in a very small town. Across the street was the Kluane National Park Visitor Center. I picked up information for our final leg in the Yukon/BC area. I also inquired about the area where my husband Les’s base camp might have been on the Alaska Highway in 1945. (At that time it was referred to as the Alcan. He was with the Signal Corps at one of the telegraph/repeater stations along the highway. A distinction of his camp was its location on a glacier which caused many additional challenges with the difficult environment.) Next stop was the location of the meeting of the two ends of the road. This area also has a glacier which has been receding. Judy hiked part way up the path to the summit location but I opted out. I was very tired at this point and eager to find our campground for the night. Surprisingly enough it was a a short distance beyond. Cottonwood RV park was very nice with a setting on the still ice covered lake. We met a German couple from Hamburg who had picked up a rental RV in Whitehorse. They planned to travel the area for a couple of months.
No garbage was allowed in the area because of the bears. We shared the smoked salmon for supper. It was a very full day and I am actually writing this several days later.
Day 32 Miles 310 We had planned to leave at 8 a.m. because this would be one of the longer days. Judy popped in at 7 as I was preparing my breakfast. She was ready to go! Turns out she was using her phone for a clock and it had switched to local time an hour ahead. We had agreed to stay on Alaska time. She had been up at what she thought was 6 and photographed the sunrise. I was up at 6 and the sun was high in the sky. There are about 20 hours of daylight now.
We were on the road at 8 Alaska time and traveled through more magnificent scenery with mountains and lakes. The night before we had highlighted in the Milepost book areas where we would rendezvous or didn’t want to miss. One was a former telegraph station now campground but was closed. However there were a number of army vehicles there. We are on the Alaska Highway. All the problems of muskeg (marshy like area) and permafrost lifting the roadways of which Les spoke are still very prevalent. In some areas they seem to be moving the road; in others they strip in down to the gravel. One area was such a washboard, I went 15 mph. Trucks were going much faster. One RVer we later met said his TV fell off its bracket in this area and he was almost hit by a semi. It was not a road for the faint of heart and made the outstanding surroundings more difficult to appreciate. We did have a wonderful lunch in Beaver Creek at Buckshot Bettys. A fun place with good food. They promised Wifi but it didn’t seem to work. We also stopped in Tok. Our coupon book promised free fudge. “It comes next week” was the answer. That shop also promised Wifi that we could not get to work. We bought gas there and I purchased a Fairbanks Sunday paper. The headlines told of earthquake tremors in Fairbanks. Uh-oh.
In Tok we turned south onto the Tok cutoff. The Alaska Highway went on to Fairbanks. I know Les drove this route many times during his service here and he was in my thoughts all during the day.
We were headed to Hart D Ranch in the town of Slana. A big “For Sale” sign greeted us at the entrance which was a bit of a put off for me. The RV/Lodge is adjacent to the Wrangell/Elias National Forest. We had thought we could take advantage of the proximity but it did not appear an area easily accessed. We were the only RV’s in the park though some bicyclists were tent camping. I don’t think anyone was in the lodge facility. Mary Louise the owner is an artist. At one time she also raised sled dogs. Four of their houses still remained and were behind our campsites. She says with all the play on the Idilirod and the commercial sponsorships, the sport has really changed. She now raises small show dogs.
We decided to only stay one night and go onto Valdez for 2 nights. We both felt the need to catch up up a bit and didn’t think the Hart D Ranch would provide that opportunity though there was good internet service but no telephone reception. The routes are taking longer with the stretches of gravel covered and permafrost lifted roads.
Day 33 Miles 203 Judy slept in today. I had thought she’d gone for a walk. By the time we actually departed it was 11:30 a.m. We wanted to check out a couple of other campgrounds for friends of Judy’s doing the trip next year. Somehow I missed the turn for the first one and the walkie talkies don’t work with more than a mile between us. I have to say they have been very helpful to stay in contact and point out things to each other. We found a place for lunch and a man coming out commented that he had seen us earlier. He advised us to watch the roads and keep our speed at 45 mph. He was trying to fish for red salmon and the season began today. I guess the fish didn’t get the word though and they haven’t arrived.
We had delicious hamburgers at Trailside Grill mm115, though with Fox news in the background, and a nice visit with the owner/chief. He has a very interesting collection of Alaska books, new and used.
Next stop was the Wrangell/Elias National Park Visitor Center. It was an impressive facility with a separate theater where an excellent film on the park was shown. This park is larger than Switzerland with higher peaks according to the film. The park came into being in 1984 but is not very accessible or restrictive. There are a number of privately held properties with “subsistence living” we were told by a ranger.
Our trip took us through Thompson Pass. At one point we could see the Alaska Pipeline headed for Valdez. Somehow they were able to get it through these incredible mountains. We saw glaciers, waterfalls, spruce trees some of which are being damaged by a fungus. This is the same range as the Kluane National Forest in Canada where we were yesterday. All along there are silt filled streams from the glacier run off. The water is often “tea with milk” colored but also slate gray due to the sediment from the glaciers.
In some ways I feel I have followed spring north. I’ve watched the budding trees, the delicate green leaves, the brighter foliage and the many wildflowers along the roadside. In Alaska it seems to be happening in a fast motion speed. At Cottonwood last night the trees were still budding out on the east side of these mountains. On the west side everything looks in full bloom.
We worked our way down to Valdez while debating on campgrounds along the way, but eventually found Eagles Rest a primarily gravel covered site but with views of mountains all around. Eagles come in for feeding and Dall sheep are on the hillside. It’s not the wilderness we had wanted but it is scenic. Donald led us to our sites which have electric, sewer and water. I asked about facilities for washing our vehicles and he said we could do it on our sites. We investigated the laundry facilities which are the best yet and heated shower rooms to boot! I can take this “urban setting”. A trip to the nearby grocery was possible by foot which was welcomed after the long day at the wheel.
Day 34 Valdez AK This will be a long post and I apologize but most nights I have been too tired to write. Judy has been more diligent (and less wordy) and you might want to check her blog www.judysroadtrek.blogspot.com. I decided to complete this tonight because tomorrow will begin a new phase of our trip. We will catch a ferry to Whittier in the morning 8 a.m. departure which means ferry dock by 7 a.m. The remainder of the week will be spent in the Kenai Peninsula which is south of Anchorage. We’ll first visit Seward where our arrangements have been made by some local Roadtrek owners. Then we’ll head over to Homer, where Judy has friends. During this time we’ll be joined by another friend of Judy’s, Gunnell who will travel with us until Anchorage. Gunnell and her husband are sailors so I’m sure we’ll have some sea stories to swap.
Today has been a sunny beautiful day in Valdez. We began in search of a hardware store for some RV items. I found a gadget for use with the hose in filling the water tanks. We had difficulty locating the visitor center as both the address and map illustration was wrong. As a result though we found a resale shop where I found some jeans. I only had one pair and they are my primary dress so I had been hoping for a cheap pair and $3 met the bill. The visitor center had maps of trails in the area. However most were longer and more arduous than I wanted. We saw a film on the earthquake that destroyed what had been Valdez before 1964. It is the largest quake to ever hit this continent at 9.8. Incredible film footage showed the magnitude of the 40 ft. waves that came ashore. Amazingly only 115 deaths were reported. We drove the area where the original Valdez was located but nothing indicated what had happened. We found an area across the harbor near the pipeline headquarters that made a great setting for lunch. We agreed on the “local” hiking trailn which featured some interesting plant life as well as views of the water.
I wanted to give Big Mama some attention and that involved the rest of the day. Judy decided to do the same and came up with the idea of using the picnic table to access the higher parts of our vans. We worked at bug removal, filling tanks, pumping out and trouble shooting some problems. Finally I was able to head for the showers and then a load of laundry. I’d done a crock pot dish and that together with vegetables made dinner in between wash and dry cycles. I regret missing the museums here and a historical walking tour tonight but I feel more rested from this physical work and satisfied that Big Mama is looking good after the pounding these roads have given her.
We were on the road north by 11. I bought gas which turned out to be 50 cents more than Juneau! Bad decision there. Then it was pumped by an attendant who could not coax enough to reach full. I stopped again for gas at Haines Junction Yukon where it was back to liters and Canadian money. We crossed the border 40 miles north of Haines. Initially the route is in the far corner of BC but then goes into the Yukon territory. The scenery was awesome. Snowy mountain tops of Kluane National Park with areas that felt quite desolate with few cars on the road. We stopped at the highest point of the Haines highway for a photo op. Temperatures dropped as low as 40. Haines Junction was our late lunch stop at the Village Bakery. A better name would be Temptations. Everything looked good but I settled on salmon soup and a slice of Greek style pizza. They also sold local “cold” smoked salmon and each of us selected some. Tempting as it was I passed on the wonderful breads, muffins, and cookies. It was a busy place in a very small town. Across the street was the Kluane National Park Visitor Center. I picked up information for our final leg in the Yukon/BC area. I also inquired about the area where my husband Les’s base camp might have been on the Alaska Highway in 1945. (At that time it was referred to as the Alcan. He was with the Signal Corps at one of the telegraph/repeater stations along the highway. A distinction of his camp was its location on a glacier which caused many additional challenges with the difficult environment.) Next stop was the location of the meeting of the two ends of the road. This area also has a glacier which has been receding. Judy hiked part way up the path to the summit location but I opted out. I was very tired at this point and eager to find our campground for the night. Surprisingly enough it was a a short distance beyond. Cottonwood RV park was very nice with a setting on the still ice covered lake. We met a German couple from Hamburg who had picked up a rental RV in Whitehorse. They planned to travel the area for a couple of months.
No garbage was allowed in the area because of the bears. We shared the smoked salmon for supper. It was a very full day and I am actually writing this several days later.
Day 32 Miles 310 We had planned to leave at 8 a.m. because this would be one of the longer days. Judy popped in at 7 as I was preparing my breakfast. She was ready to go! Turns out she was using her phone for a clock and it had switched to local time an hour ahead. We had agreed to stay on Alaska time. She had been up at what she thought was 6 and photographed the sunrise. I was up at 6 and the sun was high in the sky. There are about 20 hours of daylight now.
We were on the road at 8 Alaska time and traveled through more magnificent scenery with mountains and lakes. The night before we had highlighted in the Milepost book areas where we would rendezvous or didn’t want to miss. One was a former telegraph station now campground but was closed. However there were a number of army vehicles there. We are on the Alaska Highway. All the problems of muskeg (marshy like area) and permafrost lifting the roadways of which Les spoke are still very prevalent. In some areas they seem to be moving the road; in others they strip in down to the gravel. One area was such a washboard, I went 15 mph. Trucks were going much faster. One RVer we later met said his TV fell off its bracket in this area and he was almost hit by a semi. It was not a road for the faint of heart and made the outstanding surroundings more difficult to appreciate. We did have a wonderful lunch in Beaver Creek at Buckshot Bettys. A fun place with good food. They promised Wifi but it didn’t seem to work. We also stopped in Tok. Our coupon book promised free fudge. “It comes next week” was the answer. That shop also promised Wifi that we could not get to work. We bought gas there and I purchased a Fairbanks Sunday paper. The headlines told of earthquake tremors in Fairbanks. Uh-oh.
In Tok we turned south onto the Tok cutoff. The Alaska Highway went on to Fairbanks. I know Les drove this route many times during his service here and he was in my thoughts all during the day.
We were headed to Hart D Ranch in the town of Slana. A big “For Sale” sign greeted us at the entrance which was a bit of a put off for me. The RV/Lodge is adjacent to the Wrangell/Elias National Forest. We had thought we could take advantage of the proximity but it did not appear an area easily accessed. We were the only RV’s in the park though some bicyclists were tent camping. I don’t think anyone was in the lodge facility. Mary Louise the owner is an artist. At one time she also raised sled dogs. Four of their houses still remained and were behind our campsites. She says with all the play on the Idilirod and the commercial sponsorships, the sport has really changed. She now raises small show dogs.
We decided to only stay one night and go onto Valdez for 2 nights. We both felt the need to catch up up a bit and didn’t think the Hart D Ranch would provide that opportunity though there was good internet service but no telephone reception. The routes are taking longer with the stretches of gravel covered and permafrost lifted roads.
Day 33 Miles 203 Judy slept in today. I had thought she’d gone for a walk. By the time we actually departed it was 11:30 a.m. We wanted to check out a couple of other campgrounds for friends of Judy’s doing the trip next year. Somehow I missed the turn for the first one and the walkie talkies don’t work with more than a mile between us. I have to say they have been very helpful to stay in contact and point out things to each other. We found a place for lunch and a man coming out commented that he had seen us earlier. He advised us to watch the roads and keep our speed at 45 mph. He was trying to fish for red salmon and the season began today. I guess the fish didn’t get the word though and they haven’t arrived.
We had delicious hamburgers at Trailside Grill mm115, though with Fox news in the background, and a nice visit with the owner/chief. He has a very interesting collection of Alaska books, new and used.
Next stop was the Wrangell/Elias National Park Visitor Center. It was an impressive facility with a separate theater where an excellent film on the park was shown. This park is larger than Switzerland with higher peaks according to the film. The park came into being in 1984 but is not very accessible or restrictive. There are a number of privately held properties with “subsistence living” we were told by a ranger.
Our trip took us through Thompson Pass. At one point we could see the Alaska Pipeline headed for Valdez. Somehow they were able to get it through these incredible mountains. We saw glaciers, waterfalls, spruce trees some of which are being damaged by a fungus. This is the same range as the Kluane National Forest in Canada where we were yesterday. All along there are silt filled streams from the glacier run off. The water is often “tea with milk” colored but also slate gray due to the sediment from the glaciers.
In some ways I feel I have followed spring north. I’ve watched the budding trees, the delicate green leaves, the brighter foliage and the many wildflowers along the roadside. In Alaska it seems to be happening in a fast motion speed. At Cottonwood last night the trees were still budding out on the east side of these mountains. On the west side everything looks in full bloom.
We worked our way down to Valdez while debating on campgrounds along the way, but eventually found Eagles Rest a primarily gravel covered site but with views of mountains all around. Eagles come in for feeding and Dall sheep are on the hillside. It’s not the wilderness we had wanted but it is scenic. Donald led us to our sites which have electric, sewer and water. I asked about facilities for washing our vehicles and he said we could do it on our sites. We investigated the laundry facilities which are the best yet and heated shower rooms to boot! I can take this “urban setting”. A trip to the nearby grocery was possible by foot which was welcomed after the long day at the wheel.
Day 34 Valdez AK This will be a long post and I apologize but most nights I have been too tired to write. Judy has been more diligent (and less wordy) and you might want to check her blog www.judysroadtrek.blogspot.com. I decided to complete this tonight because tomorrow will begin a new phase of our trip. We will catch a ferry to Whittier in the morning 8 a.m. departure which means ferry dock by 7 a.m. The remainder of the week will be spent in the Kenai Peninsula which is south of Anchorage. We’ll first visit Seward where our arrangements have been made by some local Roadtrek owners. Then we’ll head over to Homer, where Judy has friends. During this time we’ll be joined by another friend of Judy’s, Gunnell who will travel with us until Anchorage. Gunnell and her husband are sailors so I’m sure we’ll have some sea stories to swap.
Today has been a sunny beautiful day in Valdez. We began in search of a hardware store for some RV items. I found a gadget for use with the hose in filling the water tanks. We had difficulty locating the visitor center as both the address and map illustration was wrong. As a result though we found a resale shop where I found some jeans. I only had one pair and they are my primary dress so I had been hoping for a cheap pair and $3 met the bill. The visitor center had maps of trails in the area. However most were longer and more arduous than I wanted. We saw a film on the earthquake that destroyed what had been Valdez before 1964. It is the largest quake to ever hit this continent at 9.8. Incredible film footage showed the magnitude of the 40 ft. waves that came ashore. Amazingly only 115 deaths were reported. We drove the area where the original Valdez was located but nothing indicated what had happened. We found an area across the harbor near the pipeline headquarters that made a great setting for lunch. We agreed on the “local” hiking trailn which featured some interesting plant life as well as views of the water.
I wanted to give Big Mama some attention and that involved the rest of the day. Judy decided to do the same and came up with the idea of using the picnic table to access the higher parts of our vans. We worked at bug removal, filling tanks, pumping out and trouble shooting some problems. Finally I was able to head for the showers and then a load of laundry. I’d done a crock pot dish and that together with vegetables made dinner in between wash and dry cycles. I regret missing the museums here and a historical walking tour tonight but I feel more rested from this physical work and satisfied that Big Mama is looking good after the pounding these roads have given her.
Monday, June 1, 2009
Alaska Bound Days 29 & 30
Day 29 Juneau Miles 67 We had a leisurely start for a change and departed the campground about 9:30. First stop was Nugget Mall where we found Carhartt jeans at Alaska Outdoors, an REI type store. I tried on a lot of sale merchandise but settled for a full price hat. Judy found some pants she liked. We then visited Alaska Gourmet where she purchased a coffee making funnel, the type I use to brew a single cup, and measuring cups that will go in microwave. We then headed to town. The recommended parking at the Coast Guard facility where we parked on Wednesday was closed due to construction at the entrance. There was a spot in front of the Tracy Arm boat office. It didn’t look like regular parking but we didn’t see any signs. On our return about 6 hours later we saw a “30 minute limit” sign that had been blocked by a large van earlier. Fortunately there was no ticket on the windshield.
Starting at the Juneau/Douglas City museum to sign up for their 1:30 walking tour of the historic downtown area, we then crossed through the State Office Building where taking an elevator down saves a long stairway and leads to the State Museum. Emphasizing all of the state, there is an excellent collection of native history as well as a section on the Russian influence. We ran out of time though so decided to come back later in the day. Back to the state office building where we found a canteen, had a hot dog, and made it back to the city museum for the tour.
Marie, a life time resident of Juneau since her birth in 1925 and a descendent of those arriving in the 1890’s, was our impressive leader. One participant was from Vancouver traveling on a cruise ship, and the other an 18 year resident of Juneau who came specifically because Marie was leading the tour. To top it off it was a beautiful sunny and somewhat warm day. We first toured the state capitol which Marie remembered once also housing all the state offices and the post office. She pointed out old photographs and shared their history. As we toured about 6 blocks of the historic district she brought the various families who had owned the buildings and businesses to life including a Japanese family who ran a laundry and one of whose sons was Marie’s classmate. Before he could finish high school, his fqmily was relocated to an internment camp. (She described it as evacuation.) The building was still inscribed as “Laundry 1930”. The family never returned to Juneau. She told of the Goldsteins and the Ballantynes buildings and their various businesses. She talked of the gold miners and cannery workers as well as pointed out where the red light district had once been located, now filled with shops for the cruise ship passengers. Many of the “streets on the hillsides are actually stairways that have names and serve as addresses. Back at the museum Marie suggested we take in the video which was a further history lesson which had more meaning after the “real life” descriptions of Marie.
After checking out the recommended Silverbow bakery bagels and buying for tomorrow’s breakfast, we headed back to the State Museum for another hour. They have one of 33 globes of the planet earth that receives computer and satellite feeds from NOAA. There are a series which include weather patterns, ice formation and melt, earthquake data, and the passage of the sun over the earth with the night illuminations. Very fascinating.
Our next decision was Robert’s Tram for which we had a discount coupon. It goes up a mountain overlooking the harbor. Instead of seeking that view we drove over to Douglas, on the island across from Juneau and a more residential area. We headed north along the water until we reached a pull off with a view across to the Mendenhall glacier. This was also a boat launch area and the locals were out for an evening of fishing. Back on the Juneau side we went back to Fred Meyers store. The campground discounted our stay with a contribution to their community food pantry. Fred’s had a good buy on peanut butter so we each bought a couple of jars. We also picked up cooked chicken and salads and headed north to the end of the peninsula for a picnic at St. Theresa’s shrine. A large flat top rock was our table and we had a delightful dinner with wine over looking the Gatineau Channel and the sun going behind the mountains to the west. We will sail out this channel tomorrow on the ferry to Haines.
Day 30 Juneau to Haines By 7 a.m. I was off to the main campground building, a mobile unit containing the office, laundry room, toilet and shower facilities nicely heated. It was 9 by the time my clothes and I were clean and dry. Judy and I had bagels, cream cheese and coffee in Big Mama. I pumped my tanks, stowed the clean clothes, did the dishes and some needed straightening. Judy made yet one more trip to Fred Meyers and a gas stop. I decided to get gas at Haines thinking it might be less $$ than Juneau. I haven’t mentioned that through all of this it was raining. The temperature was tolerable but I wore my boots the whole time. We met at the ferry dock shortly after noon. The latest to check in was 12:30 for our 2:30 departure. We were in separate but adjacent lines Personnel came back and checked over the vehicles putting tape over the propane valve. They also taped someone’s broken tail light. Again the loading was incrediably slow. The number of vehicles was high and many of them motor homes. I was probably loaded almost an hour before Judy and that was at almost 2:30. I could watch her in line from the observation lounge on the ferry. We left over an hour later than scheduled.
We did enjoy halibut burgers (grilled fish on a bun) in the cafeteria. People mingled and talked of fishing, pipelines, travel. Many seemed to be workers or politicians from Juneau heading off for the weekend. I met a German couple who live in Ft. Lauderdale in the winter and are doing a car tour. They left Florida the day before I did. We were alerted to whale sightings which happened several times. Unloading at Haines took a while and when we came out of the terminal, a very rough road was the route into the small town of Haines. We finally reached the campground after 8. They had reservations for 3 of us but were willing to apply Sherrie’s deposit to my site and I’ll repay her. It was a very efficient checkin Judy wanted to find a restaurant but the closing hours were 9 and it was 9:10. One did agree to serve us a large bowl of chowder in their non smoking bar. Called the Bamboo Room, the building has a long history. Beginning as French food restaurant in the 20’s, at one time it was a bordello. The current owners took over in the 50’s and are known for their halibut fish and chips. The place has a very homey, local flavor.
Starting at the Juneau/Douglas City museum to sign up for their 1:30 walking tour of the historic downtown area, we then crossed through the State Office Building where taking an elevator down saves a long stairway and leads to the State Museum. Emphasizing all of the state, there is an excellent collection of native history as well as a section on the Russian influence. We ran out of time though so decided to come back later in the day. Back to the state office building where we found a canteen, had a hot dog, and made it back to the city museum for the tour.
Marie, a life time resident of Juneau since her birth in 1925 and a descendent of those arriving in the 1890’s, was our impressive leader. One participant was from Vancouver traveling on a cruise ship, and the other an 18 year resident of Juneau who came specifically because Marie was leading the tour. To top it off it was a beautiful sunny and somewhat warm day. We first toured the state capitol which Marie remembered once also housing all the state offices and the post office. She pointed out old photographs and shared their history. As we toured about 6 blocks of the historic district she brought the various families who had owned the buildings and businesses to life including a Japanese family who ran a laundry and one of whose sons was Marie’s classmate. Before he could finish high school, his fqmily was relocated to an internment camp. (She described it as evacuation.) The building was still inscribed as “Laundry 1930”. The family never returned to Juneau. She told of the Goldsteins and the Ballantynes buildings and their various businesses. She talked of the gold miners and cannery workers as well as pointed out where the red light district had once been located, now filled with shops for the cruise ship passengers. Many of the “streets on the hillsides are actually stairways that have names and serve as addresses. Back at the museum Marie suggested we take in the video which was a further history lesson which had more meaning after the “real life” descriptions of Marie.
After checking out the recommended Silverbow bakery bagels and buying for tomorrow’s breakfast, we headed back to the State Museum for another hour. They have one of 33 globes of the planet earth that receives computer and satellite feeds from NOAA. There are a series which include weather patterns, ice formation and melt, earthquake data, and the passage of the sun over the earth with the night illuminations. Very fascinating.
Our next decision was Robert’s Tram for which we had a discount coupon. It goes up a mountain overlooking the harbor. Instead of seeking that view we drove over to Douglas, on the island across from Juneau and a more residential area. We headed north along the water until we reached a pull off with a view across to the Mendenhall glacier. This was also a boat launch area and the locals were out for an evening of fishing. Back on the Juneau side we went back to Fred Meyers store. The campground discounted our stay with a contribution to their community food pantry. Fred’s had a good buy on peanut butter so we each bought a couple of jars. We also picked up cooked chicken and salads and headed north to the end of the peninsula for a picnic at St. Theresa’s shrine. A large flat top rock was our table and we had a delightful dinner with wine over looking the Gatineau Channel and the sun going behind the mountains to the west. We will sail out this channel tomorrow on the ferry to Haines.
Day 30 Juneau to Haines By 7 a.m. I was off to the main campground building, a mobile unit containing the office, laundry room, toilet and shower facilities nicely heated. It was 9 by the time my clothes and I were clean and dry. Judy and I had bagels, cream cheese and coffee in Big Mama. I pumped my tanks, stowed the clean clothes, did the dishes and some needed straightening. Judy made yet one more trip to Fred Meyers and a gas stop. I decided to get gas at Haines thinking it might be less $$ than Juneau. I haven’t mentioned that through all of this it was raining. The temperature was tolerable but I wore my boots the whole time. We met at the ferry dock shortly after noon. The latest to check in was 12:30 for our 2:30 departure. We were in separate but adjacent lines Personnel came back and checked over the vehicles putting tape over the propane valve. They also taped someone’s broken tail light. Again the loading was incrediably slow. The number of vehicles was high and many of them motor homes. I was probably loaded almost an hour before Judy and that was at almost 2:30. I could watch her in line from the observation lounge on the ferry. We left over an hour later than scheduled.
We did enjoy halibut burgers (grilled fish on a bun) in the cafeteria. People mingled and talked of fishing, pipelines, travel. Many seemed to be workers or politicians from Juneau heading off for the weekend. I met a German couple who live in Ft. Lauderdale in the winter and are doing a car tour. They left Florida the day before I did. We were alerted to whale sightings which happened several times. Unloading at Haines took a while and when we came out of the terminal, a very rough road was the route into the small town of Haines. We finally reached the campground after 8. They had reservations for 3 of us but were willing to apply Sherrie’s deposit to my site and I’ll repay her. It was a very efficient checkin Judy wanted to find a restaurant but the closing hours were 9 and it was 9:10. One did agree to serve us a large bowl of chowder in their non smoking bar. Called the Bamboo Room, the building has a long history. Beginning as French food restaurant in the 20’s, at one time it was a bordello. The current owners took over in the 50’s and are known for their halibut fish and chips. The place has a very homey, local flavor.
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