Day 31 Sunshine in Haines AK Miles 202 Judy drove for a further tour of Haines including a search for smoked fish. Apparently there was a big fishing derby going on so no one was around. We did a walk around Ft. Seward. This area was purchased from the US army in the late 40’s by some service men and now is on the National register. Many of the original buildings have been converted to residences. A cruise ship dock is at the base of the hill and receives some small ships. A store owner said “the cruise ship companies want to own the shops and Haines would not agree like Skagway did.” Perhaps because of the fishing tournament, the town was very quiet. The Mountain Market coffee shop and health food store was the only busy place we saw.
We were on the road north by 11. I bought gas which turned out to be 50 cents more than Juneau! Bad decision there. Then it was pumped by an attendant who could not coax enough to reach full. I stopped again for gas at Haines Junction Yukon where it was back to liters and Canadian money. We crossed the border 40 miles north of Haines. Initially the route is in the far corner of BC but then goes into the Yukon territory. The scenery was awesome. Snowy mountain tops of Kluane National Park with areas that felt quite desolate with few cars on the road. We stopped at the highest point of the Haines highway for a photo op. Temperatures dropped as low as 40. Haines Junction was our late lunch stop at the Village Bakery. A better name would be Temptations. Everything looked good but I settled on salmon soup and a slice of Greek style pizza. They also sold local “cold” smoked salmon and each of us selected some. Tempting as it was I passed on the wonderful breads, muffins, and cookies. It was a busy place in a very small town. Across the street was the Kluane National Park Visitor Center. I picked up information for our final leg in the Yukon/BC area. I also inquired about the area where my husband Les’s base camp might have been on the Alaska Highway in 1945. (At that time it was referred to as the Alcan. He was with the Signal Corps at one of the telegraph/repeater stations along the highway. A distinction of his camp was its location on a glacier which caused many additional challenges with the difficult environment.) Next stop was the location of the meeting of the two ends of the road. This area also has a glacier which has been receding. Judy hiked part way up the path to the summit location but I opted out. I was very tired at this point and eager to find our campground for the night. Surprisingly enough it was a a short distance beyond. Cottonwood RV park was very nice with a setting on the still ice covered lake. We met a German couple from Hamburg who had picked up a rental RV in Whitehorse. They planned to travel the area for a couple of months.
No garbage was allowed in the area because of the bears. We shared the smoked salmon for supper. It was a very full day and I am actually writing this several days later.
Day 32 Miles 310 We had planned to leave at 8 a.m. because this would be one of the longer days. Judy popped in at 7 as I was preparing my breakfast. She was ready to go! Turns out she was using her phone for a clock and it had switched to local time an hour ahead. We had agreed to stay on Alaska time. She had been up at what she thought was 6 and photographed the sunrise. I was up at 6 and the sun was high in the sky. There are about 20 hours of daylight now.
We were on the road at 8 Alaska time and traveled through more magnificent scenery with mountains and lakes. The night before we had highlighted in the Milepost book areas where we would rendezvous or didn’t want to miss. One was a former telegraph station now campground but was closed. However there were a number of army vehicles there. We are on the Alaska Highway. All the problems of muskeg (marshy like area) and permafrost lifting the roadways of which Les spoke are still very prevalent. In some areas they seem to be moving the road; in others they strip in down to the gravel. One area was such a washboard, I went 15 mph. Trucks were going much faster. One RVer we later met said his TV fell off its bracket in this area and he was almost hit by a semi. It was not a road for the faint of heart and made the outstanding surroundings more difficult to appreciate. We did have a wonderful lunch in Beaver Creek at Buckshot Bettys. A fun place with good food. They promised Wifi but it didn’t seem to work. We also stopped in Tok. Our coupon book promised free fudge. “It comes next week” was the answer. That shop also promised Wifi that we could not get to work. We bought gas there and I purchased a Fairbanks Sunday paper. The headlines told of earthquake tremors in Fairbanks. Uh-oh.
In Tok we turned south onto the Tok cutoff. The Alaska Highway went on to Fairbanks. I know Les drove this route many times during his service here and he was in my thoughts all during the day.
We were headed to Hart D Ranch in the town of Slana. A big “For Sale” sign greeted us at the entrance which was a bit of a put off for me. The RV/Lodge is adjacent to the Wrangell/Elias National Forest. We had thought we could take advantage of the proximity but it did not appear an area easily accessed. We were the only RV’s in the park though some bicyclists were tent camping. I don’t think anyone was in the lodge facility. Mary Louise the owner is an artist. At one time she also raised sled dogs. Four of their houses still remained and were behind our campsites. She says with all the play on the Idilirod and the commercial sponsorships, the sport has really changed. She now raises small show dogs.
We decided to only stay one night and go onto Valdez for 2 nights. We both felt the need to catch up up a bit and didn’t think the Hart D Ranch would provide that opportunity though there was good internet service but no telephone reception. The routes are taking longer with the stretches of gravel covered and permafrost lifted roads.
Day 33 Miles 203 Judy slept in today. I had thought she’d gone for a walk. By the time we actually departed it was 11:30 a.m. We wanted to check out a couple of other campgrounds for friends of Judy’s doing the trip next year. Somehow I missed the turn for the first one and the walkie talkies don’t work with more than a mile between us. I have to say they have been very helpful to stay in contact and point out things to each other. We found a place for lunch and a man coming out commented that he had seen us earlier. He advised us to watch the roads and keep our speed at 45 mph. He was trying to fish for red salmon and the season began today. I guess the fish didn’t get the word though and they haven’t arrived.
We had delicious hamburgers at Trailside Grill mm115, though with Fox news in the background, and a nice visit with the owner/chief. He has a very interesting collection of Alaska books, new and used.
Next stop was the Wrangell/Elias National Park Visitor Center. It was an impressive facility with a separate theater where an excellent film on the park was shown. This park is larger than Switzerland with higher peaks according to the film. The park came into being in 1984 but is not very accessible or restrictive. There are a number of privately held properties with “subsistence living” we were told by a ranger.
Our trip took us through Thompson Pass. At one point we could see the Alaska Pipeline headed for Valdez. Somehow they were able to get it through these incredible mountains. We saw glaciers, waterfalls, spruce trees some of which are being damaged by a fungus. This is the same range as the Kluane National Forest in Canada where we were yesterday. All along there are silt filled streams from the glacier run off. The water is often “tea with milk” colored but also slate gray due to the sediment from the glaciers.
In some ways I feel I have followed spring north. I’ve watched the budding trees, the delicate green leaves, the brighter foliage and the many wildflowers along the roadside. In Alaska it seems to be happening in a fast motion speed. At Cottonwood last night the trees were still budding out on the east side of these mountains. On the west side everything looks in full bloom.
We worked our way down to Valdez while debating on campgrounds along the way, but eventually found Eagles Rest a primarily gravel covered site but with views of mountains all around. Eagles come in for feeding and Dall sheep are on the hillside. It’s not the wilderness we had wanted but it is scenic. Donald led us to our sites which have electric, sewer and water. I asked about facilities for washing our vehicles and he said we could do it on our sites. We investigated the laundry facilities which are the best yet and heated shower rooms to boot! I can take this “urban setting”. A trip to the nearby grocery was possible by foot which was welcomed after the long day at the wheel.
Day 34 Valdez AK This will be a long post and I apologize but most nights I have been too tired to write. Judy has been more diligent (and less wordy) and you might want to check her blog www.judysroadtrek.blogspot.com. I decided to complete this tonight because tomorrow will begin a new phase of our trip. We will catch a ferry to Whittier in the morning 8 a.m. departure which means ferry dock by 7 a.m. The remainder of the week will be spent in the Kenai Peninsula which is south of Anchorage. We’ll first visit Seward where our arrangements have been made by some local Roadtrek owners. Then we’ll head over to Homer, where Judy has friends. During this time we’ll be joined by another friend of Judy’s, Gunnell who will travel with us until Anchorage. Gunnell and her husband are sailors so I’m sure we’ll have some sea stories to swap.
Today has been a sunny beautiful day in Valdez. We began in search of a hardware store for some RV items. I found a gadget for use with the hose in filling the water tanks. We had difficulty locating the visitor center as both the address and map illustration was wrong. As a result though we found a resale shop where I found some jeans. I only had one pair and they are my primary dress so I had been hoping for a cheap pair and $3 met the bill. The visitor center had maps of trails in the area. However most were longer and more arduous than I wanted. We saw a film on the earthquake that destroyed what had been Valdez before 1964. It is the largest quake to ever hit this continent at 9.8. Incredible film footage showed the magnitude of the 40 ft. waves that came ashore. Amazingly only 115 deaths were reported. We drove the area where the original Valdez was located but nothing indicated what had happened. We found an area across the harbor near the pipeline headquarters that made a great setting for lunch. We agreed on the “local” hiking trailn which featured some interesting plant life as well as views of the water.
I wanted to give Big Mama some attention and that involved the rest of the day. Judy decided to do the same and came up with the idea of using the picnic table to access the higher parts of our vans. We worked at bug removal, filling tanks, pumping out and trouble shooting some problems. Finally I was able to head for the showers and then a load of laundry. I’d done a crock pot dish and that together with vegetables made dinner in between wash and dry cycles. I regret missing the museums here and a historical walking tour tonight but I feel more rested from this physical work and satisfied that Big Mama is looking good after the pounding these roads have given her.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Monday, June 1, 2009
Alaska Bound Days 29 & 30
Day 29 Juneau Miles 67 We had a leisurely start for a change and departed the campground about 9:30. First stop was Nugget Mall where we found Carhartt jeans at Alaska Outdoors, an REI type store. I tried on a lot of sale merchandise but settled for a full price hat. Judy found some pants she liked. We then visited Alaska Gourmet where she purchased a coffee making funnel, the type I use to brew a single cup, and measuring cups that will go in microwave. We then headed to town. The recommended parking at the Coast Guard facility where we parked on Wednesday was closed due to construction at the entrance. There was a spot in front of the Tracy Arm boat office. It didn’t look like regular parking but we didn’t see any signs. On our return about 6 hours later we saw a “30 minute limit” sign that had been blocked by a large van earlier. Fortunately there was no ticket on the windshield.
Starting at the Juneau/Douglas City museum to sign up for their 1:30 walking tour of the historic downtown area, we then crossed through the State Office Building where taking an elevator down saves a long stairway and leads to the State Museum. Emphasizing all of the state, there is an excellent collection of native history as well as a section on the Russian influence. We ran out of time though so decided to come back later in the day. Back to the state office building where we found a canteen, had a hot dog, and made it back to the city museum for the tour.
Marie, a life time resident of Juneau since her birth in 1925 and a descendent of those arriving in the 1890’s, was our impressive leader. One participant was from Vancouver traveling on a cruise ship, and the other an 18 year resident of Juneau who came specifically because Marie was leading the tour. To top it off it was a beautiful sunny and somewhat warm day. We first toured the state capitol which Marie remembered once also housing all the state offices and the post office. She pointed out old photographs and shared their history. As we toured about 6 blocks of the historic district she brought the various families who had owned the buildings and businesses to life including a Japanese family who ran a laundry and one of whose sons was Marie’s classmate. Before he could finish high school, his fqmily was relocated to an internment camp. (She described it as evacuation.) The building was still inscribed as “Laundry 1930”. The family never returned to Juneau. She told of the Goldsteins and the Ballantynes buildings and their various businesses. She talked of the gold miners and cannery workers as well as pointed out where the red light district had once been located, now filled with shops for the cruise ship passengers. Many of the “streets on the hillsides are actually stairways that have names and serve as addresses. Back at the museum Marie suggested we take in the video which was a further history lesson which had more meaning after the “real life” descriptions of Marie.
After checking out the recommended Silverbow bakery bagels and buying for tomorrow’s breakfast, we headed back to the State Museum for another hour. They have one of 33 globes of the planet earth that receives computer and satellite feeds from NOAA. There are a series which include weather patterns, ice formation and melt, earthquake data, and the passage of the sun over the earth with the night illuminations. Very fascinating.
Our next decision was Robert’s Tram for which we had a discount coupon. It goes up a mountain overlooking the harbor. Instead of seeking that view we drove over to Douglas, on the island across from Juneau and a more residential area. We headed north along the water until we reached a pull off with a view across to the Mendenhall glacier. This was also a boat launch area and the locals were out for an evening of fishing. Back on the Juneau side we went back to Fred Meyers store. The campground discounted our stay with a contribution to their community food pantry. Fred’s had a good buy on peanut butter so we each bought a couple of jars. We also picked up cooked chicken and salads and headed north to the end of the peninsula for a picnic at St. Theresa’s shrine. A large flat top rock was our table and we had a delightful dinner with wine over looking the Gatineau Channel and the sun going behind the mountains to the west. We will sail out this channel tomorrow on the ferry to Haines.
Day 30 Juneau to Haines By 7 a.m. I was off to the main campground building, a mobile unit containing the office, laundry room, toilet and shower facilities nicely heated. It was 9 by the time my clothes and I were clean and dry. Judy and I had bagels, cream cheese and coffee in Big Mama. I pumped my tanks, stowed the clean clothes, did the dishes and some needed straightening. Judy made yet one more trip to Fred Meyers and a gas stop. I decided to get gas at Haines thinking it might be less $$ than Juneau. I haven’t mentioned that through all of this it was raining. The temperature was tolerable but I wore my boots the whole time. We met at the ferry dock shortly after noon. The latest to check in was 12:30 for our 2:30 departure. We were in separate but adjacent lines Personnel came back and checked over the vehicles putting tape over the propane valve. They also taped someone’s broken tail light. Again the loading was incrediably slow. The number of vehicles was high and many of them motor homes. I was probably loaded almost an hour before Judy and that was at almost 2:30. I could watch her in line from the observation lounge on the ferry. We left over an hour later than scheduled.
We did enjoy halibut burgers (grilled fish on a bun) in the cafeteria. People mingled and talked of fishing, pipelines, travel. Many seemed to be workers or politicians from Juneau heading off for the weekend. I met a German couple who live in Ft. Lauderdale in the winter and are doing a car tour. They left Florida the day before I did. We were alerted to whale sightings which happened several times. Unloading at Haines took a while and when we came out of the terminal, a very rough road was the route into the small town of Haines. We finally reached the campground after 8. They had reservations for 3 of us but were willing to apply Sherrie’s deposit to my site and I’ll repay her. It was a very efficient checkin Judy wanted to find a restaurant but the closing hours were 9 and it was 9:10. One did agree to serve us a large bowl of chowder in their non smoking bar. Called the Bamboo Room, the building has a long history. Beginning as French food restaurant in the 20’s, at one time it was a bordello. The current owners took over in the 50’s and are known for their halibut fish and chips. The place has a very homey, local flavor.
Starting at the Juneau/Douglas City museum to sign up for their 1:30 walking tour of the historic downtown area, we then crossed through the State Office Building where taking an elevator down saves a long stairway and leads to the State Museum. Emphasizing all of the state, there is an excellent collection of native history as well as a section on the Russian influence. We ran out of time though so decided to come back later in the day. Back to the state office building where we found a canteen, had a hot dog, and made it back to the city museum for the tour.
Marie, a life time resident of Juneau since her birth in 1925 and a descendent of those arriving in the 1890’s, was our impressive leader. One participant was from Vancouver traveling on a cruise ship, and the other an 18 year resident of Juneau who came specifically because Marie was leading the tour. To top it off it was a beautiful sunny and somewhat warm day. We first toured the state capitol which Marie remembered once also housing all the state offices and the post office. She pointed out old photographs and shared their history. As we toured about 6 blocks of the historic district she brought the various families who had owned the buildings and businesses to life including a Japanese family who ran a laundry and one of whose sons was Marie’s classmate. Before he could finish high school, his fqmily was relocated to an internment camp. (She described it as evacuation.) The building was still inscribed as “Laundry 1930”. The family never returned to Juneau. She told of the Goldsteins and the Ballantynes buildings and their various businesses. She talked of the gold miners and cannery workers as well as pointed out where the red light district had once been located, now filled with shops for the cruise ship passengers. Many of the “streets on the hillsides are actually stairways that have names and serve as addresses. Back at the museum Marie suggested we take in the video which was a further history lesson which had more meaning after the “real life” descriptions of Marie.
After checking out the recommended Silverbow bakery bagels and buying for tomorrow’s breakfast, we headed back to the State Museum for another hour. They have one of 33 globes of the planet earth that receives computer and satellite feeds from NOAA. There are a series which include weather patterns, ice formation and melt, earthquake data, and the passage of the sun over the earth with the night illuminations. Very fascinating.
Our next decision was Robert’s Tram for which we had a discount coupon. It goes up a mountain overlooking the harbor. Instead of seeking that view we drove over to Douglas, on the island across from Juneau and a more residential area. We headed north along the water until we reached a pull off with a view across to the Mendenhall glacier. This was also a boat launch area and the locals were out for an evening of fishing. Back on the Juneau side we went back to Fred Meyers store. The campground discounted our stay with a contribution to their community food pantry. Fred’s had a good buy on peanut butter so we each bought a couple of jars. We also picked up cooked chicken and salads and headed north to the end of the peninsula for a picnic at St. Theresa’s shrine. A large flat top rock was our table and we had a delightful dinner with wine over looking the Gatineau Channel and the sun going behind the mountains to the west. We will sail out this channel tomorrow on the ferry to Haines.
Day 30 Juneau to Haines By 7 a.m. I was off to the main campground building, a mobile unit containing the office, laundry room, toilet and shower facilities nicely heated. It was 9 by the time my clothes and I were clean and dry. Judy and I had bagels, cream cheese and coffee in Big Mama. I pumped my tanks, stowed the clean clothes, did the dishes and some needed straightening. Judy made yet one more trip to Fred Meyers and a gas stop. I decided to get gas at Haines thinking it might be less $$ than Juneau. I haven’t mentioned that through all of this it was raining. The temperature was tolerable but I wore my boots the whole time. We met at the ferry dock shortly after noon. The latest to check in was 12:30 for our 2:30 departure. We were in separate but adjacent lines Personnel came back and checked over the vehicles putting tape over the propane valve. They also taped someone’s broken tail light. Again the loading was incrediably slow. The number of vehicles was high and many of them motor homes. I was probably loaded almost an hour before Judy and that was at almost 2:30. I could watch her in line from the observation lounge on the ferry. We left over an hour later than scheduled.
We did enjoy halibut burgers (grilled fish on a bun) in the cafeteria. People mingled and talked of fishing, pipelines, travel. Many seemed to be workers or politicians from Juneau heading off for the weekend. I met a German couple who live in Ft. Lauderdale in the winter and are doing a car tour. They left Florida the day before I did. We were alerted to whale sightings which happened several times. Unloading at Haines took a while and when we came out of the terminal, a very rough road was the route into the small town of Haines. We finally reached the campground after 8. They had reservations for 3 of us but were willing to apply Sherrie’s deposit to my site and I’ll repay her. It was a very efficient checkin Judy wanted to find a restaurant but the closing hours were 9 and it was 9:10. One did agree to serve us a large bowl of chowder in their non smoking bar. Called the Bamboo Room, the building has a long history. Beginning as French food restaurant in the 20’s, at one time it was a bordello. The current owners took over in the 50’s and are known for their halibut fish and chips. The place has a very homey, local flavor.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Alaska Bound Day 28
Day 28
Juneau Awoke before the 6 a..m. alarm setting. We departed on time at 7 and stopped at Breeze Inn, a large convenience store that was recommended for sandwiches to take on boat trip. Parking in Coast Guard lot was easy. Judy is driving today. We checked in at the Adventure Bound office and proceeded to their dock. Huge tides in the area and this was low but fortunately had a long gang plank. ADVENTURE BOUND holds about 50 passengers and today there were 26 with a crew of two, Steve the owner as captain and Lydia, a college student from Idaho working for the summer (found the jog through Google) as mate. We followed recommended seating suggestion and each took a window on the port side. The initial ride is about an hour or more south on the Gatineau Channel and then Stevens channel before heading into Tracy Arm, a long winding fiord with glaciers at the terminus. We were warned that they had been unable to go very far in the channel earlier in the week due to an ice break off. This was caused by new freshwater ice formed from snow that froze in the cracks of the glacier. As it melted Large pieces let go from the glacier and filled the channel. As it turned out this was still a problem and we were only able to go in part way and then had to inch our way out through the blocks of ice. The sound of the ice hitting the fiberglass hull hurt my boaters “inner core”.
However it was still a wonderful ride with fantastic scenery. We saw lots of eagles, 2 bears, and incredible blue icebergs though none the size of the one I saw in Newfoundland last year (see July 08 blog posting.) Most incredible was whale sightings. I picked up the first one with my binoculars. Said to be hunpbacks they could be spotted by their “’blows”. While none totally breached, they did dive and watch those incredible tales enter the water was worth the whole trip for me. We also had some porpoises briefly circle the boat on the return trip..
The passengers were all companionable. One woman was amazing getting around with two canes. She had a poodle as a service dog. Apparently a back injury led to a rod in her back. The dog even pus on and takes off her socks. Lydia served sandwiches, drinks, and snacks to those who had not brought food.
On our return to Juneau we took a stroll through the shopping area. Three cruise ships were in port but it was after 6 p.m. so not too many out and about. We found some intriguing stuff but nothing requiring an immediate purchase. Judy stopped a roving policeman and asked about where to buy Carhardt pants. He suggested a couple places in town but said best was at Nugget Mall. We went to The Hangar for dinner about 7. It was a jumping place. There’s a great view of the harbor where the sea planes land but to get a table we had to go up to the pool room. The building is a former hangar now turned into a small mall. The food was very good. Their specialty is as a microbrewery but I had a hard cider and Judy a glass of wine.
However it was still a wonderful ride with fantastic scenery. We saw lots of eagles, 2 bears, and incredible blue icebergs though none the size of the one I saw in Newfoundland last year (see July 08 blog posting.) Most incredible was whale sightings. I picked up the first one with my binoculars. Said to be hunpbacks they could be spotted by their “’blows”. While none totally breached, they did dive and watch those incredible tales enter the water was worth the whole trip for me. We also had some porpoises briefly circle the boat on the return trip..
The passengers were all companionable. One woman was amazing getting around with two canes. She had a poodle as a service dog. Apparently a back injury led to a rod in her back. The dog even pus on and takes off her socks. Lydia served sandwiches, drinks, and snacks to those who had not brought food.
On our return to Juneau we took a stroll through the shopping area. Three cruise ships were in port but it was after 6 p.m. so not too many out and about. We found some intriguing stuff but nothing requiring an immediate purchase. Judy stopped a roving policeman and asked about where to buy Carhardt pants. He suggested a couple places in town but said best was at Nugget Mall. We went to The Hangar for dinner about 7. It was a jumping place. There’s a great view of the harbor where the sea planes land but to get a table we had to go up to the pool room. The building is a former hangar now turned into a small mall. The food was very good. Their specialty is as a microbrewery but I had a hard cider and Judy a glass of wine.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Alaska Bound Day 26 & 27
Photos (L) View along Inside Passage (R) Mendenall Glacier from trail. Note: Click on photos to see in full screen.
Day 26 Miles 3 from campground to ferry. Aboard Alaska Marine Highway ferry M/V KENNICOTT I fell asleep at 11 p.m. and never heard the vehicles from the Port Hardy ferry arrive at the campground. I awoke before the 3:45 a.m. alarm and decided to get up and dressed. Looking out I saw a Roadtrek next to me and was relieved Judy arrived. When I looked further there were two Roadtreks, very similar and both with California license tags! I had to get my IPhone where I stored her email with her license #. She wasn’t next to me but across the way. I might have awakened the wrong people! Anyway seeing no lights, I knocked on her door at 4 a.m. and reminded her we were to arrive at the ferry dock at 4:15. I kept talking until sure she was awake and assured me she would follow shortly.
My vehicle was measured and agreed with my booked 21 ft. length, and I was directed into one of the lines. I then had to go into a terminal to obtain the tickets purchased in February for the next 3 ferry rides. There were 2 agents and both seemed to have problem passengers. After 10 minutes (seemed like ½ hour) a third agent came, went over my confirmation papers, passport, and gave me the usual immigration/customs form for entering the USA.
Judy was in line by now and had her walkie talkie. She had one of the “agents in training” who apparently had difficulty locating her record. She paged me for the itinerary number and it was resolved. However the walkie talkie was picking up the ships purser as well! After passing immigration/customs inspection I was back in the US though still on Canadian soil and waters.
We waited over an hour to board. They seemed to have to shift vehicles around, backed a charter bus on board and when we did go in, we had to turn around. Our treks are at the very back, standing alone. We are able to go them periodically when they open the vehicle deck for the pet owners. My first return was to get my US money!
Boarding the vessel we were now on Alaska time, one hour earlier (four hours earlier than Florida) which resulted in a wait until the café’s 7 a.m. opening. I had two huge banana pancakes made fresh and worth the wait. We settled into our cabin. It sleeps four but really only has two permanent berths which are bunk beds . I took the top one which I prefer and tried to figure out how to climb up. Problem solved by pulling over a chair. When looking down from my lofty perch, Judy said, “what about the ladder?” DUH! It was hanging on the wall. We both took naps to make up for the lost sleep.
We arrived in Ketchikan at 12:30 for two hours. We had lunch before disembarking (great Thai chicken soup) and struck out into the rainy day. A local hotel clerk suggested catching a free bus into town. Fortunately the stop had a shelter. Our phones worked so we were busy checking our messages and making a few calls. I had to keep reminding myself that this was Memorial Day and I was back in the US. When the bus finally arrived we were told it would take too long to be back for boarding by 2:15 so we had to make do with a local walk up the hill which gave us a good view of the KENNICOTT. A stop back at the hotel for lattes warmed our “innards, and we reboarded on time. It was a bit of a disappointment not to see more of Ketchikan and a lesson that we need to better preplan our excursions. We learned later that the “bridge to nowhere” was actually near the ferry dock and connected a nearby island where the city desperately (according to the source) needs for additional housing. The airport was nearby as well with a lot of float plane activity.
Two interpreters from the Tongass National Forest boarded and they gave a talk on the early salmon industry, the Wrangell Narrows through which we would pass, and suggestions for Juneau. The ferry berths at Auke Bay which is outside Juneau close to the Mendenhall Glacier and our campground.
Much of the day has been a steady rain with low clouds on the water. A number of people have been out walking the decks but I just could not bring myself to do it. The views out the window were good and with the binoculars I saw lighthouses and porpoises. There are laminated nautical charts and many have their GPS (including Judy) marking our route and speed. This was particularly good as we approached the Wrangell Narrows about 9. The Bridge announced they would be doing some maneuvers to await the rising tide necessary to transit the very narrow and shallow passage. This is not the route of the cruise ships and even the ferry does not always go this way. It is 2 hours shorter but requires certain conditions to make it possible. The KENNICOTT is 382 ft. long with an 85 ft. beam and max draft almost 18 ft. We were told it can be 21 ft. depth through this area. Skinny! They posted 3 on the bow to assist. Unfortunately I was getting very tired and decided to watch from the top bunk. It seemed as though you could reach out and touch the green lighted cans we passed and shore looked very close. From the chart it would even decrease in width but unfortunately I had to call it a day.
My vehicle was measured and agreed with my booked 21 ft. length, and I was directed into one of the lines. I then had to go into a terminal to obtain the tickets purchased in February for the next 3 ferry rides. There were 2 agents and both seemed to have problem passengers. After 10 minutes (seemed like ½ hour) a third agent came, went over my confirmation papers, passport, and gave me the usual immigration/customs form for entering the USA.
Judy was in line by now and had her walkie talkie. She had one of the “agents in training” who apparently had difficulty locating her record. She paged me for the itinerary number and it was resolved. However the walkie talkie was picking up the ships purser as well! After passing immigration/customs inspection I was back in the US though still on Canadian soil and waters.
We waited over an hour to board. They seemed to have to shift vehicles around, backed a charter bus on board and when we did go in, we had to turn around. Our treks are at the very back, standing alone. We are able to go them periodically when they open the vehicle deck for the pet owners. My first return was to get my US money!
Boarding the vessel we were now on Alaska time, one hour earlier (four hours earlier than Florida) which resulted in a wait until the café’s 7 a.m. opening. I had two huge banana pancakes made fresh and worth the wait. We settled into our cabin. It sleeps four but really only has two permanent berths which are bunk beds . I took the top one which I prefer and tried to figure out how to climb up. Problem solved by pulling over a chair. When looking down from my lofty perch, Judy said, “what about the ladder?” DUH! It was hanging on the wall. We both took naps to make up for the lost sleep.
We arrived in Ketchikan at 12:30 for two hours. We had lunch before disembarking (great Thai chicken soup) and struck out into the rainy day. A local hotel clerk suggested catching a free bus into town. Fortunately the stop had a shelter. Our phones worked so we were busy checking our messages and making a few calls. I had to keep reminding myself that this was Memorial Day and I was back in the US. When the bus finally arrived we were told it would take too long to be back for boarding by 2:15 so we had to make do with a local walk up the hill which gave us a good view of the KENNICOTT. A stop back at the hotel for lattes warmed our “innards, and we reboarded on time. It was a bit of a disappointment not to see more of Ketchikan and a lesson that we need to better preplan our excursions. We learned later that the “bridge to nowhere” was actually near the ferry dock and connected a nearby island where the city desperately (according to the source) needs for additional housing. The airport was nearby as well with a lot of float plane activity.
Two interpreters from the Tongass National Forest boarded and they gave a talk on the early salmon industry, the Wrangell Narrows through which we would pass, and suggestions for Juneau. The ferry berths at Auke Bay which is outside Juneau close to the Mendenhall Glacier and our campground.
Much of the day has been a steady rain with low clouds on the water. A number of people have been out walking the decks but I just could not bring myself to do it. The views out the window were good and with the binoculars I saw lighthouses and porpoises. There are laminated nautical charts and many have their GPS (including Judy) marking our route and speed. This was particularly good as we approached the Wrangell Narrows about 9. The Bridge announced they would be doing some maneuvers to await the rising tide necessary to transit the very narrow and shallow passage. This is not the route of the cruise ships and even the ferry does not always go this way. It is 2 hours shorter but requires certain conditions to make it possible. The KENNICOTT is 382 ft. long with an 85 ft. beam and max draft almost 18 ft. We were told it can be 21 ft. depth through this area. Skinny! They posted 3 on the bow to assist. Unfortunately I was getting very tired and decided to watch from the top bunk. It seemed as though you could reach out and touch the green lighted cans we passed and shore looked very close. From the chart it would even decrease in width but unfortunately I had to call it a day.
Day 27 Miles 47 Miles driven since leaving Stuart 4411. Juneau Alaska! I was awake at 4 and it was quite light outside. At 5 Judy was up and headed up to get coffee and check out what was happening. I wrote up yesterdays blog, took a shower and was ready to head to breakfast. We were arriving 2 hours early as a result of our “short cut”. Many of the passengers were on the bow for the docking. Anne of Silver Bay Tours (CA) offered to take a photo of Judy and me on the deck. It was my first deck walk and while chilly, there was no wind. We headed off the ferry with Judy in the lead soon arrived at Spruce Meadow Campground. They were surprised we were so early but took great care of us giving many suggestions and marking up a map. Corinne, who operates the campground with her mother Linda telephoned the Tracy Arm Adventurous Tours to confirm our trip on Wednesday.
After some unpacking and repacking we headed off to Mendenhall Glacier a short distance away. I drove today and Judy will drive tomorrow. We packed up energy bars, nuts, and water for our hike only to learn no food at all was to be eaten anywhere on the premises because of the bears. So back to the van to eat there and then start out again. We selected the East Glacier trail of about 3.5 miles and a vertical climb of 400 feet. It was very scenic overlooking the area of the glacier. It was a challenging trail but rated moderate. I even was warm enough to remove a layer. We stopped often for photo ops of vistas, waterfalls, and lichen covered rocks and trees. Rain fell intermittently but for the most part we were undercover of the trees. Despite the warnings we did not see any bears. We have heard though that a bear family has been visiting the campground so we may yet have an encounter.
We next headed toward the center of Juneau and toward the south end of the main road where we wanted to arrive at Thorne Oar House where freshly caught king salmon is a specialty. This was the location of a gold mine at one time. We were the only customers for the 3:30 seating. A generous salad bar, plus salmon, baked beans and corn bread more than satisfied our appetites while the owner shares tales of life in Juneau. The restaurant is on the Gatineau channel through which the cruise ships arrive in Juneau. Today there must have been 5 huge ones filling the downtown dock area. Traffic on the narrow streets was controlled by people serving as crossing guards. We drove some of the steep narrow city streets as we worked our way back south. There had been a steady rain since we left the Mendenhall visitors center and there seemed no value to more touring. We stopped at a large upscale type Walmart/Target Store Fred Meyers and checked out some items for the Roadtreks as well as some food items. We then found Udder Connection which was touted for their frozen yogurt. Finally back to the campground for the night. It is still raining and the temperature has been in the 40’s. Tomorrow’s Tracy Arm tour will be by boat and hopefully there will be drier weather.
After some unpacking and repacking we headed off to Mendenhall Glacier a short distance away. I drove today and Judy will drive tomorrow. We packed up energy bars, nuts, and water for our hike only to learn no food at all was to be eaten anywhere on the premises because of the bears. So back to the van to eat there and then start out again. We selected the East Glacier trail of about 3.5 miles and a vertical climb of 400 feet. It was very scenic overlooking the area of the glacier. It was a challenging trail but rated moderate. I even was warm enough to remove a layer. We stopped often for photo ops of vistas, waterfalls, and lichen covered rocks and trees. Rain fell intermittently but for the most part we were undercover of the trees. Despite the warnings we did not see any bears. We have heard though that a bear family has been visiting the campground so we may yet have an encounter.
We next headed toward the center of Juneau and toward the south end of the main road where we wanted to arrive at Thorne Oar House where freshly caught king salmon is a specialty. This was the location of a gold mine at one time. We were the only customers for the 3:30 seating. A generous salad bar, plus salmon, baked beans and corn bread more than satisfied our appetites while the owner shares tales of life in Juneau. The restaurant is on the Gatineau channel through which the cruise ships arrive in Juneau. Today there must have been 5 huge ones filling the downtown dock area. Traffic on the narrow streets was controlled by people serving as crossing guards. We drove some of the steep narrow city streets as we worked our way back south. There had been a steady rain since we left the Mendenhall visitors center and there seemed no value to more touring. We stopped at a large upscale type Walmart/Target Store Fred Meyers and checked out some items for the Roadtreks as well as some food items. We then found Udder Connection which was touted for their frozen yogurt. Finally back to the campground for the night. It is still raining and the temperature has been in the 40’s. Tomorrow’s Tracy Arm tour will be by boat and hopefully there will be drier weather.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Alaska Bound Day 25
Day 25 Miles 8 I had a good night sleep except for around midnight when the ferry was docking in Bella Bella. I had left the curtain for the porthole drawn and looked out to see the spotlight searching the shoreline for a mark. I guess the engine slowdown caused me to wake. Shortly after, a loudspeaker announced our arrival. I was asleep before departure. Next thing it was shortly before 6 a.m. and bright daylight. We were in the area that was said to be the most scenic so I decided to get dressed and go out and see the full view. The passage is narrow but deep and the land is steep on both sides with snow capped peaks. Many waterfalls were cascading down. It was really a nice brisk morning. The cafeteria opened and I was hungry so ordered the Northern Exposure named for the ferry. It was waffle, scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage! Since few were about, I set the chair at the table to get the best view.
While later having a cup of seafood chowder, the captain announced we would arrive Prince Rupert an hour early at 1:15 p.m, I was the first vehicle off the boat and headed for the visitor center. I walked the area looking for the many totem poles. The sunken garden was on my list but it was in need of some tending. Some ladies arrived who appeared to be ready to correct that. I really enjoyed the Museum of North British Columbia. It’s a great timber building which may be built with the design of the native “long house.” This area has had inhabitants for over 5000 years and has a strong native history and present day influence. It is also one of Canada’s major seaports and several freighters were waiting in the harbor.
I considered going out to the Lester Center for the Performing Arts, tonight’s venue for a concert by the local hosts of the music contest. The persistent rain discouraged me. I drove back to the ferry terminal but enroute spoiled what had been a pretty good day. I went in for gas to avoid having to find it soon after arrival in Juneau Tuesday. It was a smaller station than I like to use. Unfortunately I turned too tight and a curb around the pumps caught my right side compartment in front of the rear wheel. The compartment popped open but the worst of the damage is along the bottom where it was scrapped. I was able to secure the compartment and I think the fix can wait but I’ve been beating myself up ever since.
Judy and I planned to rendezvous at the Alaska Ferry terminal when her ferry arrives later this evening. However there were no parking signs so I ended up proceeding to a nearby campground. We had been told we could camp over night at the terminal, but the signs say no. I tried to text her but it wouldn’t go through so left a telephone message. When I checked in here, the campground owner told me the next Alaska ferry was Thursday! My reservation says Monday. Apparently there are others in the campground who plan to take it as well. We have to be at the terminal at 4:15 a.m. which was part of the reason not to go to a campground. The neighbor’s dog keeps barking and my mood is getting darker so I think I’ll stop.
While later having a cup of seafood chowder, the captain announced we would arrive Prince Rupert an hour early at 1:15 p.m, I was the first vehicle off the boat and headed for the visitor center. I walked the area looking for the many totem poles. The sunken garden was on my list but it was in need of some tending. Some ladies arrived who appeared to be ready to correct that. I really enjoyed the Museum of North British Columbia. It’s a great timber building which may be built with the design of the native “long house.” This area has had inhabitants for over 5000 years and has a strong native history and present day influence. It is also one of Canada’s major seaports and several freighters were waiting in the harbor.
I considered going out to the Lester Center for the Performing Arts, tonight’s venue for a concert by the local hosts of the music contest. The persistent rain discouraged me. I drove back to the ferry terminal but enroute spoiled what had been a pretty good day. I went in for gas to avoid having to find it soon after arrival in Juneau Tuesday. It was a smaller station than I like to use. Unfortunately I turned too tight and a curb around the pumps caught my right side compartment in front of the rear wheel. The compartment popped open but the worst of the damage is along the bottom where it was scrapped. I was able to secure the compartment and I think the fix can wait but I’ve been beating myself up ever since.
Judy and I planned to rendezvous at the Alaska Ferry terminal when her ferry arrives later this evening. However there were no parking signs so I ended up proceeding to a nearby campground. We had been told we could camp over night at the terminal, but the signs say no. I tried to text her but it wouldn’t go through so left a telephone message. When I checked in here, the campground owner told me the next Alaska ferry was Thursday! My reservation says Monday. Apparently there are others in the campground who plan to take it as well. We have to be at the terminal at 4:15 a.m. which was part of the reason not to go to a campground. The neighbor’s dog keeps barking and my mood is getting darker so I think I’ll stop.
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Alaska Bound Day 24
Day 24Miles 159 plus ferry This day began about 3a.m. when I sensed the engines of a vessel. Sure enough it was a cruise ship passing in front of our camping area. I shot a photo through the dirty front windshield but it gives the idea with all its lights illuminated. Turns out Judy tried to shoot one about midnight but wasn’t able to get it. We were both up before 7 a.m. and she came to get hot water for coffee. We agreed to depart at 8:30 but both of us did some computer work which delayed a bit. Our aim was breakfast at the Cable House Café. We were told it was 15 minutes away. Turned out to be more like 45 but the cinnamon bun was worth waiting for. The eggs were excellent (eggcellent??) too.. An interesting structure with a building wrapped with loggers cable, fiberglassed to prevent rust. They claim it’s the only one in the world. Lots of logging memorabilia around as well. Took lots of photos and will add one later. This was in the town of Sayward which is touted as being a big salmon fishing area.
Our next stop was a rest area, said to be the best along the route and with a walking trail nearby. We needed both facilities after that “loggers” breakfast. Returning from the walk we met a gentleman who was enroute to the Prince Rupert ferry in Port Hardy. He was taking his 14 old son, an accomplished violinist to a musical contest. The had emigrated from Korea about 8 years ago and he apologized for his broken English. His son has been playing since age 4 and also excels in school and basketball according to the proud father.
We next went off the main road #19 to visit Telegraph Cove said to have a population of 20 and be the only “boardwalk” town and a summer tourist destination. It was a winding hilly trip past logging areas and a sawmill. Finally we came to the quaint town know also for the first telegraph line for security purposes in the 40’s. We had an excellent halibut lunch at the restaurant on the water. Two great and generous sized meals in one day. Uh-oh.
I was getting nervous about my ferry appointment so I wanted to head on to Port Hardy. We arrived there at 3:40 which didn’t allow me time to see Port Hardy. Judy headed off to the campground for the night. Her ferry leave at 7 a.m. in the morning. I’m not sorry I chose this one. I booked a cabin and when I reached it, the Korean man and his violinist son were my neighbors and I was treated to beautiful music! My cabin is really nice, especially the bathroom. This ferry was purchased from Spain and has European electricity. I only had an apple, cup of tea and the rest of that cinnamon bun for dinner. (Be sure to see Day 23 for a photo of Judy and me. You can click on it to enlarge.)
Our next stop was a rest area, said to be the best along the route and with a walking trail nearby. We needed both facilities after that “loggers” breakfast. Returning from the walk we met a gentleman who was enroute to the Prince Rupert ferry in Port Hardy. He was taking his 14 old son, an accomplished violinist to a musical contest. The had emigrated from Korea about 8 years ago and he apologized for his broken English. His son has been playing since age 4 and also excels in school and basketball according to the proud father.
We next went off the main road #19 to visit Telegraph Cove said to have a population of 20 and be the only “boardwalk” town and a summer tourist destination. It was a winding hilly trip past logging areas and a sawmill. Finally we came to the quaint town know also for the first telegraph line for security purposes in the 40’s. We had an excellent halibut lunch at the restaurant on the water. Two great and generous sized meals in one day. Uh-oh.
I was getting nervous about my ferry appointment so I wanted to head on to Port Hardy. We arrived there at 3:40 which didn’t allow me time to see Port Hardy. Judy headed off to the campground for the night. Her ferry leave at 7 a.m. in the morning. I’m not sorry I chose this one. I booked a cabin and when I reached it, the Korean man and his violinist son were my neighbors and I was treated to beautiful music! My cabin is really nice, especially the bathroom. This ferry was purchased from Spain and has European electricity. I only had an apple, cup of tea and the rest of that cinnamon bun for dinner. (Be sure to see Day 23 for a photo of Judy and me. You can click on it to enlarge.)
Saturday, May 23, 2009
Alaska Bound Day 23
Day 23 Miles 94 miles In a way this day is the beginning of the Alaska Adventure. My travel mate (TM) Judy and I left cousin Wilfrid and Judy’s house at 9 a.m. after a photo session of our two Roadtreks. The walkie talkies worked great and we experimented with the connection along the way. The drive was postcard scenic with snow capped mountains as a backdrop to the fir trees. Our first destination was Campbell River , BC and the museum. The parking was good and we enjoyed the exhibits of First Nation history, artifacts and early days in the area with logging industry featured. We also watched a film produced by DuPont in the 50’s detailing the explosion which cleared the Seymour Narrows Channel to give it a depth of 40-70 feet allowing traffic through this area including the many cruise ships that make their way from Vancouver to Alaska. It was an engineering feat, the largest non nuclear explosion of the time. Tonight we are camped at Ripple Rock RV park, not far from where that explosion occurred , and are facing the passage where freighters, fishing trawlers and cruise ships (though haven’t seen any yet) pass.
We had a fair lunch at Lookout Café in Campbell River whose view made up for the poor service. I found a Scotia bank and added to my Canadian funds. As we continued north we pulled off for hiking trails leading to the area of the explosion. The map of the trail indicated a 3 hour hike which was more than we anticipated but we did walk about a mile in and out through majestic conifers, across a suspension bridge, and onto shoreline of a bay.
The road into the campground is one of many logging roads that allow access into remote areas. They are usually gravel and the dust stirred up made me happy I didn’t try to wash Big Mama. They have washing facilities here but it will be back up the dusty road in the morning.
We enjoyed a cheese and cracker and wine dinner overlooking the channel while we continued to catch up on each others lives. Like me, Judy has traveling in her veins and has taken a number of trips in various parts of the world. She’s adventuresome and not afraid to try to new things. I think we will travel well together.
Tomorrow we’ll head for Port Hardy where I’ll board a ferry for Prince Rupert, BC. She’ll stay in campground and her ferry will leave the following morning. Later that night we’ll meet at the ferry terminal in Prince Rupert as we queue up for the Juneau ferry. Yes the goal of Alaska is getting closer and it is exciting.
We had a fair lunch at Lookout Café in Campbell River whose view made up for the poor service. I found a Scotia bank and added to my Canadian funds. As we continued north we pulled off for hiking trails leading to the area of the explosion. The map of the trail indicated a 3 hour hike which was more than we anticipated but we did walk about a mile in and out through majestic conifers, across a suspension bridge, and onto shoreline of a bay.
The road into the campground is one of many logging roads that allow access into remote areas. They are usually gravel and the dust stirred up made me happy I didn’t try to wash Big Mama. They have washing facilities here but it will be back up the dusty road in the morning.
We enjoyed a cheese and cracker and wine dinner overlooking the channel while we continued to catch up on each others lives. Like me, Judy has traveling in her veins and has taken a number of trips in various parts of the world. She’s adventuresome and not afraid to try to new things. I think we will travel well together.
Tomorrow we’ll head for Port Hardy where I’ll board a ferry for Prince Rupert, BC. She’ll stay in campground and her ferry will leave the following morning. Later that night we’ll meet at the ferry terminal in Prince Rupert as we queue up for the Juneau ferry. Yes the goal of Alaska is getting closer and it is exciting.
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