Alaska Bound Day 28

Day 28

Juneau Awoke before the 6 a..m. alarm setting. We departed on time at 7 and stopped at Breeze Inn, a large convenience store that was recommended for sandwiches to take on boat trip. Parking in Coast Guard lot was easy. Judy is driving today. We checked in at the Adventure Bound office and proceeded to their dock. Huge tides in the area and this was low but fortunately had a long gang plank. ADVENTURE BOUND holds about 50 passengers and today there were 26 with a crew of two, Steve the owner as captain and Lydia, a college student from Idaho working for the summer (found the jog through Google) as mate. We followed recommended seating suggestion and each took a window on the port side. The initial ride is about an hour or more south on the Gatineau Channel and then Stevens channel before heading into Tracy Arm, a long winding fiord with glaciers at the terminus. We were warned that they had been unable to go very far in the channel earlier in the week due to an ice break off. This was caused by new freshwater ice formed from snow that froze in the cracks of the glacier. As it melted Large pieces let go from the glacier and filled the channel. As it turned out this was still a problem and we were only able to go in part way and then had to inch our way out through the blocks of ice. The sound of the ice hitting the fiberglass hull hurt my boaters “inner core”.
However it was still a wonderful ride with fantastic scenery. We saw lots of eagles, 2 bears, and incredible blue icebergs though none the size of the one I saw in Newfoundland last year (see July 08 blog posting.) Most incredible was whale sightings. I picked up the first one with my binoculars. Said to be hunpbacks they could be spotted by their “’blows”. While none totally breached, they did dive and watch those incredible tales enter the water was worth the whole trip for me. We also had some porpoises briefly circle the boat on the return trip..
The passengers were all companionable. One woman was amazing getting around with two canes. She had a poodle as a service dog. Apparently a back injury led to a rod in her back. The dog even pus on and takes off her socks. Lydia served sandwiches, drinks, and snacks to those who had not brought food.
On our return to Juneau we took a stroll through the shopping area. Three cruise ships were in port but it was after 6 p.m. so not too many out and about. We found some intriguing stuff but nothing requiring an immediate purchase. Judy stopped a roving policeman and asked about where to buy Carhardt pants. He suggested a couple places in town but said best was at Nugget Mall. We went to The Hangar for dinner about 7. It was a jumping place. There’s a great view of the harbor where the sea planes land but to get a table we had to go up to the pool room. The building is a former hangar now turned into a small mall. The food was very good. Their specialty is as a microbrewery but I had a hard cider and Judy a glass of wine.

Alaska Bound Day 26 & 27

Photos (L) View along Inside Passage (R) Mendenall Glacier from trail. Note: Click on photos to see in full screen.

Day 26 Miles 3 from campground to ferry. Aboard Alaska Marine Highway ferry M/V KENNICOTT I fell asleep at 11 p.m. and never heard the vehicles from the Port Hardy ferry arrive at the campground. I awoke before the 3:45 a.m. alarm and decided to get up and dressed. Looking out I saw a Roadtrek next to me and was relieved Judy arrived. When I looked further there were two Roadtreks, very similar and both with California license tags! I had to get my IPhone where I stored her email with her license #. She wasn’t next to me but across the way. I might have awakened the wrong people! Anyway seeing no lights, I knocked on her door at 4 a.m. and reminded her we were to arrive at the ferry dock at 4:15. I kept talking until sure she was awake and assured me she would follow shortly.
My vehicle was measured and agreed with my booked 21 ft. length, and I was directed into one of the lines. I then had to go into a terminal to obtain the tickets purchased in February for the next 3 ferry rides. There were 2 agents and both seemed to have problem passengers. After 10 minutes (seemed like ½ hour) a third agent came, went over my confirmation papers, passport, and gave me the usual immigration/customs form for entering the USA.
Judy was in line by now and had her walkie talkie. She had one of the “agents in training” who apparently had difficulty locating her record. She paged me for the itinerary number and it was resolved. However the walkie talkie was picking up the ships purser as well! After passing immigration/customs inspection I was back in the US though still on Canadian soil and waters.
We waited over an hour to board. They seemed to have to shift vehicles around, backed a charter bus on board and when we did go in, we had to turn around. Our treks are at the very back, standing alone. We are able to go them periodically when they open the vehicle deck for the pet owners. My first return was to get my US money!
Boarding the vessel we were now on Alaska time, one hour earlier (four hours earlier than Florida) which resulted in a wait until the café’s 7 a.m. opening. I had two huge banana pancakes made fresh and worth the wait. We settled into our cabin. It sleeps four but really only has two permanent berths which are bunk beds . I took the top one which I prefer and tried to figure out how to climb up. Problem solved by pulling over a chair. When looking down from my lofty perch, Judy said, “what about the ladder?” DUH! It was hanging on the wall. We both took naps to make up for the lost sleep.
We arrived in Ketchikan at 12:30 for two hours. We had lunch before disembarking (great Thai chicken soup) and struck out into the rainy day. A local hotel clerk suggested catching a free bus into town. Fortunately the stop had a shelter. Our phones worked so we were busy checking our messages and making a few calls. I had to keep reminding myself that this was Memorial Day and I was back in the US. When the bus finally arrived we were told it would take too long to be back for boarding by 2:15 so we had to make do with a local walk up the hill which gave us a good view of the KENNICOTT. A stop back at the hotel for lattes warmed our “innards, and we reboarded on time. It was a bit of a disappointment not to see more of Ketchikan and a lesson that we need to better preplan our excursions. We learned later that the “bridge to nowhere” was actually near the ferry dock and connected a nearby island where the city desperately (according to the source) needs for additional housing. The airport was nearby as well with a lot of float plane activity.
Two interpreters from the Tongass National Forest boarded and they gave a talk on the early salmon industry, the Wrangell Narrows through which we would pass, and suggestions for Juneau. The ferry berths at Auke Bay which is outside Juneau close to the Mendenhall Glacier and our campground.
Much of the day has been a steady rain with low clouds on the water. A number of people have been out walking the decks but I just could not bring myself to do it. The views out the window were good and with the binoculars I saw lighthouses and porpoises. There are laminated nautical charts and many have their GPS (including Judy) marking our route and speed. This was particularly good as we approached the Wrangell Narrows about 9. The Bridge announced they would be doing some maneuvers to await the rising tide necessary to transit the very narrow and shallow passage. This is not the route of the cruise ships and even the ferry does not always go this way. It is 2 hours shorter but requires certain conditions to make it possible. The KENNICOTT is 382 ft. long with an 85 ft. beam and max draft almost 18 ft. We were told it can be 21 ft. depth through this area. Skinny! They posted 3 on the bow to assist. Unfortunately I was getting very tired and decided to watch from the top bunk. It seemed as though you could reach out and touch the green lighted cans we passed and shore looked very close. From the chart it would even decrease in width but unfortunately I had to call it a day.

Day 27 Miles 47 Miles driven since leaving Stuart 4411. Juneau Alaska! I was awake at 4 and it was quite light outside. At 5 Judy was up and headed up to get coffee and check out what was happening. I wrote up yesterdays blog, took a shower and was ready to head to breakfast. We were arriving 2 hours early as a result of our “short cut”. Many of the passengers were on the bow for the docking. Anne of Silver Bay Tours (CA) offered to take a photo of Judy and me on the deck. It was my first deck walk and while chilly, there was no wind. We headed off the ferry with Judy in the lead soon arrived at Spruce Meadow Campground. They were surprised we were so early but took great care of us giving many suggestions and marking up a map. Corinne, who operates the campground with her mother Linda telephoned the Tracy Arm Adventurous Tours to confirm our trip on Wednesday.
After some unpacking and repacking we headed off to Mendenhall Glacier a short distance away. I drove today and Judy will drive tomorrow. We packed up energy bars, nuts, and water for our hike only to learn no food at all was to be eaten anywhere on the premises because of the bears. So back to the van to eat there and then start out again. We selected the East Glacier trail of about 3.5 miles and a vertical climb of 400 feet. It was very scenic overlooking the area of the glacier. It was a challenging trail but rated moderate. I even was warm enough to remove a layer. We stopped often for photo ops of vistas, waterfalls, and lichen covered rocks and trees. Rain fell intermittently but for the most part we were undercover of the trees. Despite the warnings we did not see any bears. We have heard though that a bear family has been visiting the campground so we may yet have an encounter.
We next headed toward the center of Juneau and toward the south end of the main road where we wanted to arrive at Thorne Oar House where freshly caught king salmon is a specialty. This was the location of a gold mine at one time. We were the only customers for the 3:30 seating. A generous salad bar, plus salmon, baked beans and corn bread more than satisfied our appetites while the owner shares tales of life in Juneau. The restaurant is on the Gatineau channel through which the cruise ships arrive in Juneau. Today there must have been 5 huge ones filling the downtown dock area. Traffic on the narrow streets was controlled by people serving as crossing guards. We drove some of the steep narrow city streets as we worked our way back south. There had been a steady rain since we left the Mendenhall visitors center and there seemed no value to more touring. We stopped at a large upscale type Walmart/Target Store Fred Meyers and checked out some items for the Roadtreks as well as some food items. We then found Udder Connection which was touted for their frozen yogurt. Finally back to the campground for the night. It is still raining and the temperature has been in the 40’s. Tomorrow’s Tracy Arm tour will be by boat and hopefully there will be drier weather.

Alaska Bound Day 25

Day 25 Miles 8 I had a good night sleep except for around midnight when the ferry was docking in Bella Bella. I had left the curtain for the porthole drawn and looked out to see the spotlight searching the shoreline for a mark. I guess the engine slowdown caused me to wake. Shortly after, a loudspeaker announced our arrival. I was asleep before departure. Next thing it was shortly before 6 a.m. and bright daylight. We were in the area that was said to be the most scenic so I decided to get dressed and go out and see the full view. The passage is narrow but deep and the land is steep on both sides with snow capped peaks. Many waterfalls were cascading down. It was really a nice brisk morning. The cafeteria opened and I was hungry so ordered the Northern Exposure named for the ferry. It was waffle, scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage! Since few were about, I set the chair at the table to get the best view.
While later having a cup of seafood chowder, the captain announced we would arrive Prince Rupert an hour early at 1:15 p.m, I was the first vehicle off the boat and headed for the visitor center. I walked the area looking for the many totem poles. The sunken garden was on my list but it was in need of some tending. Some ladies arrived who appeared to be ready to correct that. I really enjoyed the Museum of North British Columbia. It’s a great timber building which may be built with the design of the native “long house.” This area has had inhabitants for over 5000 years and has a strong native history and present day influence. It is also one of Canada’s major seaports and several freighters were waiting in the harbor.
I considered going out to the Lester Center for the Performing Arts, tonight’s venue for a concert by the local hosts of the music contest. The persistent rain discouraged me. I drove back to the ferry terminal but enroute spoiled what had been a pretty good day. I went in for gas to avoid having to find it soon after arrival in Juneau Tuesday. It was a smaller station than I like to use. Unfortunately I turned too tight and a curb around the pumps caught my right side compartment in front of the rear wheel. The compartment popped open but the worst of the damage is along the bottom where it was scrapped. I was able to secure the compartment and I think the fix can wait but I’ve been beating myself up ever since.
Judy and I planned to rendezvous at the Alaska Ferry terminal when her ferry arrives later this evening. However there were no parking signs so I ended up proceeding to a nearby campground. We had been told we could camp over night at the terminal, but the signs say no. I tried to text her but it wouldn’t go through so left a telephone message. When I checked in here, the campground owner told me the next Alaska ferry was Thursday! My reservation says Monday. Apparently there are others in the campground who plan to take it as well. We have to be at the terminal at 4:15 a.m. which was part of the reason not to go to a campground. The neighbor’s dog keeps barking and my mood is getting darker so I think I’ll stop.

Alaska Bound Day 24

Day 24Miles 159 plus ferry This day began about 3a.m. when I sensed the engines of a vessel. Sure enough it was a cruise ship passing in front of our camping area. I shot a photo through the dirty front windshield but it gives the idea with all its lights illuminated. Turns out Judy tried to shoot one about midnight but wasn’t able to get it. We were both up before 7 a.m. and she came to get hot water for coffee. We agreed to depart at 8:30 but both of us did some computer work which delayed a bit. Our aim was breakfast at the Cable House Café. We were told it was 15 minutes away. Turned out to be more like 45 but the cinnamon bun was worth waiting for. The eggs were excellent (eggcellent??) too.. An interesting structure with a building wrapped with loggers cable, fiberglassed to prevent rust. They claim it’s the only one in the world. Lots of logging memorabilia around as well. Took lots of photos and will add one later. This was in the town of Sayward which is touted as being a big salmon fishing area.
Our next stop was a rest area, said to be the best along the route and with a walking trail nearby. We needed both facilities after that “loggers” breakfast. Returning from the walk we met a gentleman who was enroute to the Prince Rupert ferry in Port Hardy. He was taking his 14 old son, an accomplished violinist to a musical contest. The had emigrated from Korea about 8 years ago and he apologized for his broken English. His son has been playing since age 4 and also excels in school and basketball according to the proud father.
We next went off the main road #19 to visit Telegraph Cove said to have a population of 20 and be the only “boardwalk” town and a summer tourist destination. It was a winding hilly trip past logging areas and a sawmill. Finally we came to the quaint town know also for the first telegraph line for security purposes in the 40’s. We had an excellent halibut lunch at the restaurant on the water. Two great and generous sized meals in one day. Uh-oh.
I was getting nervous about my ferry appointment so I wanted to head on to Port Hardy. We arrived there at 3:40 which didn’t allow me time to see Port Hardy. Judy headed off to the campground for the night. Her ferry leave at 7 a.m. in the morning. I’m not sorry I chose this one. I booked a cabin and when I reached it, the Korean man and his violinist son were my neighbors and I was treated to beautiful music! My cabin is really nice, especially the bathroom. This ferry was purchased from Spain and has European electricity. I only had an apple, cup of tea and the rest of that cinnamon bun for dinner. (Be sure to see Day 23 for a photo of Judy and me. You can click on it to enlarge.)

Alaska Bound Day 23

Day 23 Miles 94 miles In a way this day is the beginning of the Alaska Adventure. My travel mate (TM) Judy and I left cousin Wilfrid and Judy’s house at 9 a.m. after a photo session of our two Roadtreks. The walkie talkies worked great and we experimented with the connection along the way. The drive was postcard scenic with snow capped mountains as a backdrop to the fir trees. Our first destination was Campbell River , BC and the museum. The parking was good and we enjoyed the exhibits of First Nation history, artifacts and early days in the area with logging industry featured. We also watched a film produced by DuPont in the 50’s detailing the explosion which cleared the Seymour Narrows Channel to give it a depth of 40-70 feet allowing traffic through this area including the many cruise ships that make their way from Vancouver to Alaska. It was an engineering feat, the largest non nuclear explosion of the time. Tonight we are camped at Ripple Rock RV park, not far from where that explosion occurred , and are facing the passage where freighters, fishing trawlers and cruise ships (though haven’t seen any yet) pass.
We had a fair lunch at Lookout Café in Campbell River whose view made up for the poor service. I found a Scotia bank and added to my Canadian funds. As we continued north we pulled off for hiking trails leading to the area of the explosion. The map of the trail indicated a 3 hour hike which was more than we anticipated but we did walk about a mile in and out through majestic conifers, across a suspension bridge, and onto shoreline of a bay.
The road into the campground is one of many logging roads that allow access into remote areas. They are usually gravel and the dust stirred up made me happy I didn’t try to wash Big Mama. They have washing facilities here but it will be back up the dusty road in the morning.
We enjoyed a cheese and cracker and wine dinner overlooking the channel while we continued to catch up on each others lives. Like me, Judy has traveling in her veins and has taken a number of trips in various parts of the world. She’s adventuresome and not afraid to try to new things. I think we will travel well together.
Tomorrow we’ll head for Port Hardy where I’ll board a ferry for Prince Rupert, BC. She’ll stay in campground and her ferry will leave the following morning. Later that night we’ll meet at the ferry terminal in Prince Rupert as we queue up for the Juneau ferry. Yes the goal of Alaska is getting closer and it is exciting.

Alaska Bound Day22

Photo: Whistler's Daughter ready to go.

Day 22 After breakfast Wilfrid and I headed out to one of his projects, a multi use sports facility which is part of a farmers co-op facility in the town of Coombs. A donor was presenting a check for the project. As it turned out it was a media event complete with TV video cameras and reporters. After the hoopla I had a private tour of the impressive facility. We then headed for the French Creek Marina where his boat WHISTLER”S DAUGHTER if moored. We put on the main sail and jib (hanked on). We then toured the nearby French Creek Boat Yard of which he is a part owner. Back to the boat, the weather seemed perfect for a shake down first of the season sail. He did a remarkable job of working out way out of the slep with me on the wheel! It was a wonderful sail. WD is so well balanced that the steering was easy and I had no difficulty holding it into the wind while Wilfrid raised the sails. We lunched on apples and energy bars from Big Mama’s larder while enjoying the gentle winds, snow capped mountains, and perfect blue skies.
A remarkable docking and a quote from as Wilfrid put it “an old friend” and equal number of landings as departures. He said he thinks of Les each time he returns from a sail. That was special too.
We headed back to the house and managed to still each lunch. Alaska travel mate Judy arrived about an hour later and we compared each other’s Roadtreks and got acquainted. Judy and Wilfrid treated us to a great dinner and afterwards a round of dominoes ended a very satisfying day. Tomorrow Judy and I head north in tandem and will try out the walkie talkies I brought along.

Alaska Bound Days 20 & 21

Inside the ferry and Horseshoe Bay harbor

Day 20 Miles 59 plus by ferry from Horseshoe Bay, BC to Departure Bay,BC Rain had ended by morning but still threatening. I pumped out again and added water to the rear tank. I also tried to remove the bugs from the hood and clean other parts. I’ve decided to wait to do the complete job. It was just too cold. I left the campground around 10 a.m. and followed directions to a gas station to fill the tank. I also tried to stop by a bank but parking was impossible and I can find one on the island. Fortunately I was able to figure out my way the Highway #1 west which takes you to the ferry terminal. Ian and I had discussed the route yesterday and he also provided me with instructions to get to his Dad’s house from the Nanaimo ferry terminal. I was early and the ferry was late but that’s better than the opposite. I get to park with the trucks, buses, and other RV’s on the lower deck. It really is easier to load than with a car. I bought a cup of tea to have with my energy bar and apple, did some crosswords, read a magazine and looked out the window and the time passed quickly. I had observed our departure on the top deck but it was cold and windy. Unloading was easy but a bit of a shock to drive off into heavy rain. That continued off and on as I headed north. With Ian’s directions, I didn’t even put the address into Greta and the trip went smoothly arriving at Judy and Wilfrid’s at 3:30 p.m. Here the sun was shining and we soaked it up outside until the evening chill set in. They prepared a wonderful dinner and again rhubarb pie! I am really doing well traveling at rhubarb time! Activities are planned for the next couple of days plus hopefully a little maintenance work.
Day 21 After breakfast Wilfrid assisted me with a clean up of the house battery and a check of the water level which was fine. He removed the battery for this and use some sandpaper to clean the connections. He also cut down the size of one of the rods that holds down the battery which made it easier to secure. We sprayed the connections and then used white grease on the battery tray slides. I had some problems with the propane valve at Vancouver, and Wilfrid was able to loosen it. I tried the stove and refrigerator and both worked with the propane. Yeah! It’s so cold though that I’m not worrying about running the refrig. I have very little in it. This probably sounds pretty mundane but it is important to my travels. The tires also were checked and are holding the pressure just fine. Several have responded to my “shimmy” problem and I really appreciate the suggestions. I think the down shifting and watching my “coasting” speed are the solutions.
Afterwards we had a good walk but short of their “geo cash” site which is up a logging road off Chatsworth, their street (for all you geo cashers I’ll try to get more info.) Toby, short for Toberlone, their dog, was unwilling to go the whole distance and kept having sitdown strikes.
After lunch we headed into Qualicum Beach, a nifty town. There’s a wonderful garden, Milner, where Wilfrid volunteers his architectural skills. The garden was full of spring blossoms in addition to wonderful tall trees. After a driving tour of some of the waterfront houses, we went to the wonderful grocery store and then home to work on various projects. I thought I had somehow deleted my family history files. I won’t bore you with the details but what was lost, not seems to be found.
Tonight I introduced them to dominoes. After a slow start Wilfrid emerged the winner. We also contacted my Alaska “mate” Judy who is still working her way to the ferry in Anacortes and invited her to make her destination, Wilfrid and Judy’s house for tomorrow night. So tomorrow will be the big “get acquainted” day and then we’ll head north together on Friday.