Alaska Bound Days 58 & 59

Day 58 Miles 88 Lake LaBarge Campgound, Yukon Territory We have sites overlooking the beautiful lake made famous in Robert Service’s poem about the Cremation of Sam McGee . It is really a stunning scene with mountains as backdrop, There are only 16 campsites and few are on the lake so we were really lucky. Some of the weekend people from nearby Whitehorse waited until the last possible minute to leave and we were there to get their sites. One even left the campfire going. The provincial parks provide firewood at the sites. So many in the states require you purchase their wood so they can control what is burned. This way no one would be tempted to sneak in other wood.
It rained during the night and into the morning but the “rain before 7 stop by 11” saying proved true if you went by Alaska time. A fair amount of traffic on both the Silver Trail down from Mayo and the Klondike. Some of the tourist attractions of First Nation exhibits were closed because it was Sunday. We had lunch overlooking the Five Fingers Rapids on the Yukon. Last week all those paddlers in the Yukon River Quest Race had to conquer the rapids. There are 219 steps down to the water and Judy decided to do the trek but I opted out. I went on to Carmack and checked out the campground Hotel Carmack RV which was on our original schedule. It was pretty bleak though located on the Yukon with a boardwalk along side. I suggested we aim for this one even though it meant a later arrival. I cooked a “Crock Pot” meal as I drove using chicken breasts, carrots, a can of mushrooms and a can of tomato zucchini mix so dinner was ready when we arrived.
I learned today that the highway we have been traveling since Dawson City was built in the 1950’s completed in ’55. Until that time to reach Dawson City you had to travel by boat. It’s always amazing to learn about life up here in the 20th century. In many ways it was another world and often primitive and certainly remote.
Wildfires have caused major damage along the Klondike Highway particularly in 1958 and 1998. Signs were posted in those areas and the latter in particular still had charred sticks where trees stood. With the short growing season it takes many many years until the forests return. Some of the hillsides show rows of dark green spruce with large sections of the lighter, silvery leaves of the aspen. Other areas though are void of any trees. In addition to the fires, a lot of logging occurred to build buildings and to provide fuel for the steam ships on the river.
This area was also the eastern most of what was called the Beringia the land bridge on what is now the Bering Strait, brought plants, animals and people from the area now known as Siberia across ice free land between ice fields here 10-12000 years ago. It seems to me that many of the First Nations people have facial characteristics of those photographed in Mongolia. There is a museum in Whitehorse that features this history so I hope to learn more in the days to come. I have not had cell telephone service since Tuesday at Tok. It may be that AT& T doesn’t know about the Yukon Territory. Judy has some luck with her Verizon.
Day 59 Miles Caribou RV Park, Whitehorse, Yukon Territory Awoke to rain and a gray start to the day. We were soon off to Mom’s Bakery up the road from the campground. Her sign promising sourdough pancakes was what attracted me and they were delicious, very light and fluffy. Sourdough pancakes was on my “to do” list but they are not easy to find. This was akin to eating in someone’s home, a breakfast bar overlooking her lush backyard while enjoying the birds having their meal at the feeder. I told her the story of Mom’s Bakery truck in Georgetown in the Bahamas and she showed me a photo of her earlier days with the back of her car outfitted with racks for the baked goods she would take around to the campgrounds late in the day. It was an enjoyable way to begin a dreary day.
Then on into Whitehorse about 45 minutes away and the first stop the Visitors Center. Judy is having problems with a leak around the toilet so we headed out to PhilMar RV services next. Their yard was crowded with RV’s and one had to wonder if all of them were in for repairs. They suggested Judy return the next morning and that it should be an easy fix with an existing part. Let’s hope so. We then went on south on the Alaska Highway to Caribou RV which I’d reserved via phone without realizing how far out of town it is. We decided to stay one night so we can shower as we may elect to do the Walmart in town the next 2 nights. We met Roadtrek owners from Ontario who are doing that and say it will be very convenient for the Canada Day Activities on July 1.
After a bite of lunch we headed back into town on now a very sunny day. At the Greyline/Holland American office we purchased tickets to the Follies for tomorrow night. The show has been recommended by many people. Also a stop for information regarding the Skagway-White Pass RR resulted in buying tickets from Skagway on Sunday. Unfortunately the train no longer runs to Whitehorse but this too has been recommended and difficult to get seats. There do seem to be more and more travelers about with a number of Rv’s traveling north as we head south.
The McBride History Museum is small but had some interesting artifacts and well done exhibit on wildlife where I learned that the Muskox is related to sheep and goats not bison. The species has been around for 150,000 years and is one of the oldest. The meat was on the menu at the restaurant tonight in a stew but I opted for lighter fare. The real Sam Magee’s cabin is there. Robert Service asked permission to use his name in the poem and he received more fame than he needed! We picked up a 3 day free parking pass given out by the Economic Development Council. (Now that’s a good idea!)Next door was the start of the walking tour. It certainly was not on the caliber of Juneau or Dawson City but we did learn some interesting facts and saw some buildings that we might have missed. The most impressive is the 3 story log cabin. Hopefully I’ll post a photo of that. On the way back to the campground we saw the world’s largest windvane, a DC3 mounted on a pole. I’ll try to get a photo of that tomorrow. I enjoyed Dawson so much that Whitehorse is a bit of a let down. However it is the government city for the Yukon Territory which has a population of 30,000 and most of those live in Whitehorse. The US army and WWII really put it on the map but it was a transportation hub before that getting goods and people to the north via the Yukon River even before that.

Alaska Day 56

Day 56 Gold Rush Campground, Dawson City, Yukon Territory This day was one full of dark grey clouds that from time to time dropped rain and the result was very chilly temperatures. It didn’t stop us from having a full day beginning with a load of laundry at 8 a.m. Then on the road in Big Mama to visit one of the Parks Canada interpretive sites outside the immediate town, Gold Dredge #4 the largest wooden hulled, bucket lined dredge in North America. Located on Bonanza Creek this huge dredge worked its way up the rivers and creeks in the area finding a lot of gold for the owners during the 30+ years of service. It is difficult to describe how large it is and even more difficult to imagine it moving slowly up the creek beds discharging the tailings. It is also difficult to realize it floated. Our interpreter, Sue, was also amazing. She had worked a gold claim with her husband from the seventies and had met many of those who had been mining the area for a number of years. She led us through the explanations of the mechanics and features of the dredge as well as telling of the lives of those who worked her and those who worked their own claims. There are still active miners in the area today and she said last year their gold mined was valued at 44 million!
Heading back into Dawson, we parked on Front Street by the river levy. We knew that a race from Whitehorse by canoes and kayaks that began two days ago should have the first arrivals in Dawson this afternoon. Sure enough the finish line was marked and a board indicated the position of the 70 some craft that were participating. The two lead boats were Voyager 6 man canoes. We saw the first one come in about 2:30 but the rest were hours or even a day away. It was exciting waiting with binoculars trained on the upstream water. For more information check http://www.yukonriverquest.com/ In between waiting we visited the First Nations Cultural Center and learned about the Han group known as Tr’ondek Hwech’in. The word Klondike came from the interpretation of that name. They trace their heritage in this area back to the end of the last ice about 10,000 years. Much of their language and culture has disappeared but they are attempting to relearn it from others with a similar heritage. They also now are self governing and have a number of businesses in the area included home construction.
We walked over to the Dawson City Museum with a number of exhibits on the history of the area including a train shed with steam locomotives used in the gold mining area. A hand operated sluice machine-rockerbox was demonstrated. Patience is definitely required for the process.
Last night at dinner Judy and Larry from Kansas gave us a couple of drink coupons for one of the hotels which we combined with a shared order of tasty mussels. Then back to Klondike Kates where we had a great meal last night. Tonight we chose to share the 2 specials, a curried pork dish, and fish and chips. It’s a good thing we are doing lots of walking.The other big event in Dawson City this weekend is the Dust to Dawson motorcycle rally. Some of the 200+ are staying here at the campground and encouraged us to come to their “rodeo” tonight. It began at 9:30 p.m. and goes to midnight. It was fun to see the way they competed: How slow(slowest wins); blindfold ride with the crowd giving directions; slalom ride around small cones; and riding while tossing tennis balls in buckets. This all took place on half a block of one the streets. We had to call it a night long before the end. Tomorrow we head further south planning to reach Whitehorse a few days before Canada Day on

Alaska Bound Days 53, 54 and 55

Note: A recent comment on the blog Days 51 &52 was by Ron Lavery. He and wife Joyce originally planned this trip and put a lot of time and effort into organizing, researching, and talking to people who expressed interest. As you may recall from earlier in the blog, Ron suffered a serious head injury and on Easter Sunday Joyce called to say they had to cancel. It is great that he is now back home in Florida and keeping up with us on the blog. It’s thanks to Ron and Joyce that Judy and I are here enjoying this phenomenal part of the world. We owe you a huge debt of gratitude and wish you continued healing!

Day 53 Miles 212 Tok RV Village, Tok, AK The day began with sunshine but I was a bit weary. It was so warm when I went to bed that I wasn’t prepared for the cold after 1:30 a.m. and had to rouse myself for more layers as well as retrieve my sleep mask. Sum total was lack of sleep. I suspect I was also a bit anxious with the knowledge that new roads were to be traveled the day ahead.
We left around 9:30 with Judy heading out for gas. We travel at our own pace and select places from the Milepost Book to rendezvous along the way. If we are a mile apart., the walkie talkie works. Our phones work depending on the signal.
The route away from Fairbanks is #2 called the Richardson Highway. It travels through the town of North Pole and heads primarily southeast toward Delta Junction. Eielson Air Force Base can be seen to the east with very large planes. Milepost warns no stopping or photographing. Tours can be arranged however. This base served during WWII as part of the system of ferrying planes to Siberia. There is a monument to this service in Fairbanks. It is an interesting and I suspect little known part of the war and illustrates the closeness of our relationship at that time. The air base occupies a very flat area which also seems to be the case for this section of the road. In the distance though, the peaks of the Alaska Range with their snow form a stunning backdrop to the west which I pull over to view several times. The road has unannounced gravel sections. It is heavily traveled by trucks and RV’s so one must stay alert. A lot of dust is raised in those gravel areas. The Tanana riverbed follows along though often seems devoid of water
As I approached a bridge I see a huge cable held structure that I first think is a railroad bridge. Instead it is supporting the pipeline bringing that oil down from Prudhome Bay. I stopped to take photos. It jogs here and then goes underground again near our meeting point Rika’s Roadhouse and Landing, a state historical park. This roadhouse was begun in the days when travel was limited to 15-20 miles a day by dogsled or horse and there was a ferry here to cross the river which is wide and swift at this point.
A lot of tour groups were going through but fortunately the café was not busy and we were able to get some soup and rhubarb pie. However the pie was a disappointment after those wonderful homemade ones by Judy and Shirley. The tables are surrounded by gift shop items and the original roadhouse building is part museum and part gift shop with impressive fur coats. I wasn’t tempted.
Soon after we reached Delta Junction, which was the end of the Alaska highway. Fairbanks also claims that distinction but that road was built earlier. We took photographs of the signpost at the Visitors Center. We both felt tired and having learned of some local ice cream, Northern Lights, went off in search of coffee and ice cream which was found at the local IGA. Both were very tasty and prepared us for the ride to to Tok which included more gravel sections, but these were better marked. The mountains were closer. These are the Wrangell Elias I think which head down toward Valdez.
We went through Tok in the early part of the month so at least the interchanges and gas stations were familiar. A quick dinner at Fast Eddies, walking distance from the RV Park, we hurried back to catch the 7 p.m. nightly show by a local singer/guitar player accompanied by a young fiddle player. This entertainment and RV park were suggested by Jane and Dave, met in Fairbanks, and we enjoyed the performance which was woven with stories of life in the interior of Alaska.
Day 54 Miles 78 Goldpanner/Chicken Creek RV Park, Chicken AK From Tetlin Junction you turn left onto the Taylor Highway. There are no services or buildings for the most part for the 60 miles to Chicken. Stretches are gravel, often with little shoulder area. The road climbs with sharp grade descents but for the most part is straight. Some sections are like a washboard so the total trip took a couple of hours with a stop or two to read about the gold miners who settled the area and the caribou who still live here.
There was a bit of confusion in finding the RV Park. A town of 15 people in the winter, there are 2 or 3 RV parks highly competitive with each other. This one is on the highway and offers a walking tour of the original town of Chicken. Judy and I had both read the book Tisha, about a young woman who came here to teach school in the 20’s. The original buildings are now being overgrown with foliage but we were able to go into what had been the General Store as well as the school house and Tisha’s dwelling. They hope to preserve the old log cabin buildings. The young man who led the tour is from Maine and in addition to working for this establishment is also a fireman/policeman/ EMT for the area.
I seemed to need to catch up on sleep and for the first time on the trip took an hour’s nap. We then walked to see the areas where the two competitor operators were located. At one we visited a couple from Kansas traveling in a small Winnebago. That area had a gift shop and small café. The third area has the General Mercantile, a café, liquor store and saloon. Our sites back up to the creek and have electricity due to a 24 hour generator. The Taylor highway continues on across the creek from us. Tomorrow we’ll head that way for Dawson City. The highway is known there as Top of the World partly because it is above the tree line. We’ve been warned the road is very rough, with steep stretches and curves. It is not advised to drive on a rainy day. We’ll be crossing into Canada as well.
We had another of Judy’s wonderful grilled dinners with vegetables and caribou burgers, from the meat bought Saturday day the farmers market. I said no restaurant we’ve visited has provided a better meal.
Day 55 Miles 110 Gold Rush Camp Ground, Dawson City Yukon Territory Back in Canada again having come via the “Top of the World Highway”. There are a lot of cautions given for the road which is for the most part gravel. Areas have numerous potholes and there are steep assents and descents as well as blind curves. Pretty steep drop-offs and no guard rails. Fortunately it was a beautiful clear, dry day and with light traffic both ways. I took it slow primarily between 15-25 mph and usually in 3rd or 2nd gear. We stopped frequently as well which resulted in a long day. The scenery was magnificent with tremendous vistas of distant mountains. The road name derives from the highways location at the top of the tree line. Yet the highest point is around 4500 feet. Shortly after a “town” called Boundary comes the border crossing. The US sign says the farthest north US border crossing. Basically there is little sign of habitation along the road. The road ends at the Yukon River where you must board a small free ferry to cross the strong currents of the Yukon to Dawson City. In addition to the slow driving we lost an hour. Canada is one hour later. Alaska originally had 4 different time zones but settled on one called Alaska time which is four hours earlier than the US East Coast.
We choose the only campground in the town on the advice of Jane and David. It’s a good walking town and we tested that out a couple of times before days end. There are several other campgrounds south of town. Much of the central area is under the auspices of Parks Canada Historic division. They have done some major renovations of buildings taking most back to the Klondike gold rush era of 18897-98. Dawson was the center of the activity. Gold is still being mined here and small claims are spread throughout the area.
Another claim to fame for Dawson is 3 writers, Jack London, who wrote about the area, and Robert Service, mainly known for his rhyming lengthy poems often featuring the gold miners and people of the area and Pierre Burton, a novelist. After dinner we walked up to Robert Services cabin on the edge of town and enjoyed hearing about his life and listening to some lesser known works. The young man an interpreter from Parks Canada who made the presentation was superb and really knew his subject. Judy is a big fan of the poet and she is one of many.
Day 55 Gold Rush Campgound, Dawson City, Yukon Territory, Canada We headed over to the rebuilt Palace Theatre for the 9:30 walking tour. Again the Parks Canada interpreter did an excellent job telling of the history and lives of the people of Dawson city. It was one of the first cities on the North American Continent to have electricity. The river was filled with paddlewheel boats bringing goods in and sometimes people out. Thirty thousand hopeful miner descended on the town after word of the Gold Rush was out making Dawson City the largest north of Seattle and west of Manitoba. Many buildings of that era are still standing which is remarkable with the many floods and the heaves of the permafrost. The town now has about 1800 year round residents but has an art academy, the theatre with year round performances, museums and a number of residents. Yet it is a step back in time but more authentic then many of the recreated historic towns.
After the tour we saw a film on the gold rush followed by another interpreter playing the part of Martha Black a leading Dawson figure for many years. Our morning guide also led the afternoon tour through the Commissioners house which has been brought back to its 1914 era when Martha Black was in residence with her Commissioner husband.
We then headed for the Westmark hotel where every afternoon at 3 p.m. an Irish actor Tom Bryne tells stories of Robert Service and recites his poems. He’s been doing this for 30 summers in Dawson. The weather went from hot to cold during the presentation which caused some Canadians dressed in shorts to be uncomfortable and for me to add layers. By dinner time it was warm again. It all depends on the sun and clouds. At bedtime it is warm and cozy but around 2 a.m. it must be in the 40’s outside and I have to add some layers.

Days 53 & 54

Day 53 Miles 212 Tok RV Village, Tok, AK The day began with sunshine but I was a bit weary. It was so warm when I went to bed that I wasn’t prepared for the cold after 1:30 a.m. and had to rouse myself for more layers as well as retrieve my sleep mask. Sum total was lack of sleep. I suspect I was also a bit anxious with the knowledge that new roads were to be traveled the day ahead.
We left around 9:30 with Judy heading out for gas. We travel at our own pace and select places from the Milepost Book to rendezvous along the way. If we are a mile apart., the walkie talkie works. Our phones work depending on the signal.
The route away from Fairbanks is #2 called the Richardson Highway. It travels through the town of North Pole and heads primarily southeast toward Delta Junction. Eielson Air Force Base can be seen to the east with very large planes. Milepost warns no stopping or photographing. Tours can be arranged however. This base served during WWII as part of the system of ferrying planes to Siberia. There is a monument to this service in Fairbanks. It is an interesting and I suspect little known part of the war and illustrates the closeness of our relationship at that time. The air base occupies a very flat area which also seems to be the case for this section of the road. In the distance though, the peaks of the Alaska Range with their snow form a stunning backdrop to the west which I pull over to view several times. The road has unannounced gravel sections. It is heavily traveled by trucks and RV’s so one must stay alert. A lot of dust is raised in those gravel areas. The Tanana riverbed follows along though often seems devoid of water
As I approached a bridge I see a huge cable held structure that I first think is a railroad bridge. Instead it is supporting the pipeline bringing that oil down from Prudhome Bay. I stopped to take photos. It jogs here and then goes underground again near our meeting point Rika’s Roadhouse and Landing, a state historical park. This roadhouse was begun in the days when travel was limited to 15-20 miles a day by dogsled or horse and there was a ferry here to cross the river which is wide and swift at this point.
A lot of tour groups were going through but fortunately the café was not busy and we were able to get some soup and rhubarb pie. However the pie was a disappointment after those wonderful homemade ones by Judy and Shirley. The tables are surrounded by gift shop items and the original roadhouse building is part museum and part gift shop with impressive fur coats. I wasn’t tempted.
Soon after we reached Delta Junction, which was the end of the Alaska highway. Fairbanks also claims that distinction but that road was built earlier. We took photographs of the signpost at the Visitors Center. We will be following the highway off and on to the other end at Dawson City Yukon Territory. We both felt tired and having learned of some local ice cream, Northern Lights, went off in search of coffee and ice cream which was found at the local IGA. Both were very tasty and prepared us for the ride to to Tok which included more gravel sections, but these were better marked. The mountains were closer. These are the Wrangell Elias I think which head down toward Valdez.
We went through Tok in the early part of the month so at least the interchanges and gas stations were familiar. A quick dinner at Fast Eddies, walking distance from the RV Park, we hurried back to catch the 7 p.m. nightly show by a local singer/guitar player accompanied by a young fiddle player. This entertainment and RV park were suggested by Jane and Dave, met in Fairbanks, and we enjoyed the performance which was woven with stories of life in the interior of Alaska.
Day 54 Miles 78 Goldpanner/Chicken Creek RV Park, Chicken AK From Tetlin Junction you turn left onto the Taylor Highway. There are no services or buildings for the most part for the 60 miles to Chicken. Stretches are gravel, often with little shoulder area. The road climbs with sharp grade descents but for the most part is straight. Some sections are like a washboard so the total trip took a couple of hours with a stop or two to read about the gold miners who settled the area and the caribou who still live here.
There was a bit of confusion in finding the RV Park. A town of 15 people in the winter, there are 2 or 3 RV parks highly competitive with each other. This one is on the highway and offers a walking tour of the original town of Chicken. Judy and I had both read the book Tisha, about a young woman who came here to teach school in the 20’s. The original buildings are now being overgrown with foliage but we were able to go into what had been the General Store as well as the school house and Tisha’s dwelling. They hope to preserve the old log cabin buildings. The young man who led the tour is from Maine and in addition to working for this establishment is also a fireman/policeman/ EMT for the area.
I seemed to need to catch up on sleep and for the first time on the trip took an hour’s nap. We then walked to see the areas where the two competitor operators were located. At one we visited a couple from Kansas traveling in a small Winnebago. That area had a gift shop and small café. The third area has the General Mercantile, a café, liquor store and saloon. Our sites back up to the creek and have electricity due to a 24 hour generator. The Taylor highway continues on across the creek from us. Tomorrow we’ll head that way for Dawson City. The highway is known there as Top of the World partly because it is above the tree line. We’ve been warned the road is very rough, with steep stretches and curves. It is not advised to drive on a rainy day. We’ll be crossing into Canada as well.
We had another of Judy’s wonderful grilled dinners with vegetables and caribou burgers, from the meat bought Saturday day the farmers market. I said no restaurant we’ve visited has provided a better meal.

Alaska Bound Days 51 &52

Day 51 Miles We decided to get an early start back to Fairbanks. At 10 a.m. there was a Summer Solstice walk at a nature area The Creamery. A one time dairy farm, it now serves as a nature preserve and bird sanctuary. Today is a celebration of the Dragon Fly and booths with information or products were featured. The morning walk was their usual celebration of the almost 24 hour day and a way to point out the adaption of plants and wildlife to the lack of darkness. One of the results was a large owl out looking for food. He thought he found it in a nearby Robins nest but the birds defended their territory even flying at the owl’s head until he gave up. Twenty pairs of binoculars followed the action! Our guide confirmed what Judy and I had concluded, the wildflowers come and go very quickly. The beautiful wild iris were in bloom across the fields and in boggy areas and the wild calla lilies were just coming out which is usually a solstice happening. The wild roses we’ve been enjoying are fading and will become rosehips (don’t use the seeds was the caution). Yarrow, canola (also called rapseed), and arnica were also identified. We walked through the boreal forest path. Unfortunately many of the group were unprepared for the mosquitoes though they had been offered the headnets. Everyone wanted to know where I bought my bug jacket!
We left Big Mama and took Judy’s trek to the twice weekly Fairbanks farmers market. Everything there is supposed to be grown or made in Alaska. I purchased some rhubarb to try in the crock pot, and wildflower honey. We also bought some beautiful radishes. The grower said he started them Feb 13 inside. There were many tempting baked goods. For lunch I had a Buffalo “dog” and Judy a Reindeer “dog”. They were out of Elk but we purchased 1 ½ lb of frozen ground elk for a later meal. Many crafts people had booths as well.
The Summer Solstice celebration includes a number of activities including a 10K run which begins at the University of Alaska at 10 p.m. We drove over to the starting area about 9:30 and mingled with the crowd. Some were participating in the costume contest part of the race. A mermaid, Uncle Sam on an unicycle, robots, birds were a few of the many we saw. All ages were participating and there was a great spirit in the air. The serious runners began but soon all groups were hustling past. We drove to about the 2/3 mark and watched for awhile from the comfort of Big Mama. Rain began almost simultaneously with the race but it was fairly light. The race will end at Pioneer Park with the anticipated final finish at midnight. Of course it will still be light.
Day 52 Rivers Edge RV Park, Fairbanks AK It seemed to rain most of the night and into the morning. The irony was that it was one of the “darker” nights and yet it was the summer solstice. By noon though the sky was clear and with the sun doing its thing which here in Fairbanks means it is high in the sky for many hours and makes the air surprisingly warm though the thermometer only shows 70. We picked up a map and recorded walking tour and intermingled that with the Midnight Sun Festival activities which were occurring in the center of town over about a nine block area. There were three performance stages, 3 on 3 basketball tournaments, one block devoted to skate boards, lots of food venders, games, community groups and much more. Lots of people of all kinds and colors and everyone seemed to be having a good time and enjoying the wonderful weather.
The recorded tour was informative but unfortunately didn’t match the map so it was a bit confusing. The visitors center is in a beautiful new building but they are out of funds to redo the map we were told. Never the less it caused us to walk the area and see some log cabins and 20’s dwellings as well as the beautification project along the Chena River.
Tomorrow we turn south and head for Tok through which we passed in the beginning days in Alaska. It seems almost sad to going into this next phase of the trip. There is still much to see and do but this marks the beginning of the end. Alaska is an amazing place with incredible landscapes and unique people. In Fairbanks we have settled long enough to get around town, talk to many who are residents and participate in some of their lives. As the season begins to change toward winter after today’s zenith so I begin my travels southeast.

Alaska Bound Day 50

L Ice Museum Chena Springs R. Granit Tor Path

Day 50 Miles 67 Chena Hot Springs We left River’s Edge RV after securing sites for Saturday and Sunday. The summer solstice is their biggest weekend of the year with many activities. I picked up a Friday paper so we could review the options.
The drive on Chena Hot Springs road was tree lined with multiple crossings over the Chena river which apparently winds back and forth. Moose were spotted along one section of river bank and all the photographers almost caused a traffic jam. We stopped at Granite Tors hiking trail access, a paved lot with toilets and picnic tables along the river. A very informative trail description was available and we walked the first few miles of the trail which followed the river. The mosquitoes were thick and I was thankful for my “bug” jacket. We saw evidence of wildlife but no actual “critters”. Those ranger led hikes have heightened our awareness to look for tracks, broken branches missing leaves, teeth marks on the birch (moose have only lower teeth and scrape the tree going up) and beaver dams.
Back at the vehicles we debated eating at a picnic table but were warned by a family that the bugs were bad so ate inside. Shortly after leaving, it began to rain. The sign said “Road Ends” but then we spotted the Chena Hot Springs Resort site. Selecting a couple of RV sites we went in and registered. This will be a night without electricity. We then went over to arrange for the 3 p.m. tour of the ice Museum. However we elected not to have the Aappletini in the glass made of ice, an extra charge, at the end of the tour. The temperature is 20 degrees and I prepared with long underwear, wool sweater, hat and gloves. The building is made of blocks of ice taken from the nearby creek. Inside ice blocks are stacked high waiting to be used. They are clear more than ¾ of the thickness and the top 1/3 is very white. This is actually the snow that fell on top of the ice. We had a large group and everyone was offered a down parka to wear. I added it to my layers. Inside the walls are frosty. Ice sculpted into life size knights on horses, chessmen, a polar bear, a wedding chapel (“short services”) a large bar where the appletini’s were served, 3 rooms available to stay in, one of which had an ice “porta potty” with a conventional seat were all part of the high ceiling building lighted by chandeliers made of ice. It was truly unique.
After that cold experience it was time for the hot springs. First we used the indoor pool and I went over some of the Schooner Oaks water exercises with Judy. The pool water was definitely warmer that the one at home. I could tell I hadn’t done those exercises for a while. Then it was out into the 50 degree outdoors in our wet suits and quickly into 106 degree hot springs water. It was not very crowded and you move around on a sandy/gravel substance under foot. The depth is probably 4 ft. No children are allowed. A fountain of cold water provides a rain like experience in the middle and the hot springs water beats down on you from an incoming pipe. All in all I really enjoyed it but then I like hot showers too. What really surprised me was that I was able to sit out on the rocks in my suit with a terry cloth jacket over my shoulders and I wasn’t cold. It was a cloudy day but the surrounded wooded hills made a very attractive backdrop and I felt like I was on vacation!
We decided to eat at the lodge’s dining room and had a very relaxed meal. Our waiter was from Bulgaria and .worked all over the states including Kissimmee Florida. This resort has the bulk of its business in the winter when in addition to the many activities, they provide rides on a tank like vehicle to get a good view of the Aurora Borealis. Much of their clientele come from Japan. It is truly a unique place.

Alaska Bounds Days 48 and 49

Day 48 Rivers Edge RV Park Fairbanks We had checked out this park yesterday. It is more centrally located, doesn’t have all the caravan activity, and provided us with complementary bus transportation to the Discovery Paddlewheel Boat tour that we had scheduled for this afternoon. In addition I was disappointed in the condition of the Riverview toilet facilities (they allowed the lights to go totally out) and the laundry where a number of machines did not work and those that did were not very good.
The boat tour was 3 hours on the Chena River which connects to the Tanana. Slit has filled the channel so that the boat can no longer enter the Tanana. Never the less it was a very interesting and entertaining time with a demonstration of a seaplane take off and landing, sled dog training and running at the home of Susan Butcher, and a Athabascan type village with some of their dwellings before and after the white man’s arrival. I discovered an Iowa classmate in the seat behind me and we compared notes. We didn’t know each other at school but were in the same dorm and graduated the same year.
On returning to the campground, Judy received word from a Roadtrek couple that they would be arriving at the campground around 6 and we would all have dinner together at the Chena Grill which is part of this complex. David and Jane left their Vermont home in mid May and came up into Alaska the route we will be taking out of the area. It was great to exchange information on what to do or not do and where to stay or not stay! They are flying to Barrow on the Arctic Ocean Sunday to celebrate the summer solstice. Judy and I looked at some of the options and costs of the trip but decided it was more than we wanted to added to our itinerary. Instead we will go for an overnight to Chena Hot Springs, about 80 miles northeast of Fairbanks for one night and then return for the solstice here in Fairbanks.
Day 49 Rivers Edge RV Park Roadtrek owners and Alaska lifetime residents, Dell and John, invited us to visit their homestead on the outskirts of Fairbanks. It is 150 acres and on a clear day they can see to Mt McKinley/Denali. We made a wrong turn enroute and John came out with his pickup to lead the way. They have a wonderful one room cabin divided by a huge fireplace built by Dell’s father. Her family has been in Alaska since the 1890’s and John’s about as long. Part of the property has a 125 foot easement for the Alaska Pipeline and we walked that area. Here it is underground. They have photos of Del’s father and their son watching the building of the pipeline.
We enjoyed our conversation learning more about Alaskan life and history. John also told of the relationship between the Rotarians in the area setting up Rotary clubs along the Siberian coast of Russia and the interchanges between the two areas.
Back in Fairbanks we visited the impressive Visitor, Convention, and Cultural Center, less than a year old. Dave and Jane had warned us of some forest fires in the Whitehorse area so Judy obtained some website information from the Land Management people who also occupy the building. We’ll check as we approach that area in about a week. There were also maps and info on our Yukon stops.
Greek was the menu for a late lunch in downtown Fairbanks and then off to Fred Meyers for supplies and food. As we returned to the campground, my site was blocked by a large tow truck. He was towing off a pickup that apparently had been damaged by one of the roads traversed but the owner said it was worth it with all the wildlife they saw. Unfortunately I didn’t learn the road involved.