Note: A recent comment on the blog Days 51 &52 was by Ron Lavery. He and wife Joyce originally planned this trip and put a lot of time and effort into organizing, researching, and talking to people who expressed interest. As you may recall from earlier in the blog, Ron suffered a serious head injury and on Easter Sunday Joyce called to say they had to cancel. It is great that he is now back home in Florida and keeping up with us on the blog. It’s thanks to Ron and Joyce that Judy and I are here enjoying this phenomenal part of the world. We owe you a huge debt of gratitude and wish you continued healing!
Day 53 Miles 212 Tok RV Village, Tok, AK The day began with sunshine but I was a bit weary. It was so warm when I went to bed that I wasn’t prepared for the cold after 1:30 a.m. and had to rouse myself for more layers as well as retrieve my sleep mask. Sum total was lack of sleep. I suspect I was also a bit anxious with the knowledge that new roads were to be traveled the day ahead.
We left around 9:30 with Judy heading out for gas. We travel at our own pace and select places from the Milepost Book to rendezvous along the way. If we are a mile apart., the walkie talkie works. Our phones work depending on the signal.
The route away from Fairbanks is #2 called the Richardson Highway. It travels through the town of North Pole and heads primarily southeast toward Delta Junction. Eielson Air Force Base can be seen to the east with very large planes. Milepost warns no stopping or photographing. Tours can be arranged however. This base served during WWII as part of the system of ferrying planes to Siberia. There is a monument to this service in Fairbanks. It is an interesting and I suspect little known part of the war and illustrates the closeness of our relationship at that time. The air base occupies a very flat area which also seems to be the case for this section of the road. In the distance though, the peaks of the Alaska Range with their snow form a stunning backdrop to the west which I pull over to view several times. The road has unannounced gravel sections. It is heavily traveled by trucks and RV’s so one must stay alert. A lot of dust is raised in those gravel areas. The Tanana riverbed follows along though often seems devoid of water
As I approached a bridge I see a huge cable held structure that I first think is a railroad bridge. Instead it is supporting the pipeline bringing that oil down from Prudhome Bay. I stopped to take photos. It jogs here and then goes underground again near our meeting point Rika’s Roadhouse and Landing, a state historical park. This roadhouse was begun in the days when travel was limited to 15-20 miles a day by dogsled or horse and there was a ferry here to cross the river which is wide and swift at this point.
A lot of tour groups were going through but fortunately the café was not busy and we were able to get some soup and rhubarb pie. However the pie was a disappointment after those wonderful homemade ones by Judy and Shirley. The tables are surrounded by gift shop items and the original roadhouse building is part museum and part gift shop with impressive fur coats. I wasn’t tempted.
Soon after we reached Delta Junction, which was the end of the Alaska highway. Fairbanks also claims that distinction but that road was built earlier. We took photographs of the signpost at the Visitors Center. We both felt tired and having learned of some local ice cream, Northern Lights, went off in search of coffee and ice cream which was found at the local IGA. Both were very tasty and prepared us for the ride to to Tok which included more gravel sections, but these were better marked. The mountains were closer. These are the Wrangell Elias I think which head down toward Valdez.
We went through Tok in the early part of the month so at least the interchanges and gas stations were familiar. A quick dinner at Fast Eddies, walking distance from the RV Park, we hurried back to catch the 7 p.m. nightly show by a local singer/guitar player accompanied by a young fiddle player. This entertainment and RV park were suggested by Jane and Dave, met in Fairbanks, and we enjoyed the performance which was woven with stories of life in the interior of Alaska.
Day 54 Miles 78 Goldpanner/Chicken Creek RV Park, Chicken AK From Tetlin Junction you turn left onto the Taylor Highway. There are no services or buildings for the most part for the 60 miles to Chicken. Stretches are gravel, often with little shoulder area. The road climbs with sharp grade descents but for the most part is straight. Some sections are like a washboard so the total trip took a couple of hours with a stop or two to read about the gold miners who settled the area and the caribou who still live here.
There was a bit of confusion in finding the RV Park. A town of 15 people in the winter, there are 2 or 3 RV parks highly competitive with each other. This one is on the highway and offers a walking tour of the original town of Chicken. Judy and I had both read the book Tisha, about a young woman who came here to teach school in the 20’s. The original buildings are now being overgrown with foliage but we were able to go into what had been the General Store as well as the school house and Tisha’s dwelling. They hope to preserve the old log cabin buildings. The young man who led the tour is from Maine and in addition to working for this establishment is also a fireman/policeman/ EMT for the area.
I seemed to need to catch up on sleep and for the first time on the trip took an hour’s nap. We then walked to see the areas where the two competitor operators were located. At one we visited a couple from Kansas traveling in a small Winnebago. That area had a gift shop and small café. The third area has the General Mercantile, a café, liquor store and saloon. Our sites back up to the creek and have electricity due to a 24 hour generator. The Taylor highway continues on across the creek from us. Tomorrow we’ll head that way for Dawson City. The highway is known there as Top of the World partly because it is above the tree line. We’ve been warned the road is very rough, with steep stretches and curves. It is not advised to drive on a rainy day. We’ll be crossing into Canada as well.
We had another of Judy’s wonderful grilled dinners with vegetables and caribou burgers, from the meat bought Saturday day the farmers market. I said no restaurant we’ve visited has provided a better meal.
Day 55 Miles 110 Gold Rush Camp Ground, Dawson City Yukon Territory Back in Canada again having come via the “Top of the World Highway”. There are a lot of cautions given for the road which is for the most part gravel. Areas have numerous potholes and there are steep assents and descents as well as blind curves. Pretty steep drop-offs and no guard rails. Fortunately it was a beautiful clear, dry day and with light traffic both ways. I took it slow primarily between 15-25 mph and usually in 3rd or 2nd gear. We stopped frequently as well which resulted in a long day. The scenery was magnificent with tremendous vistas of distant mountains. The road name derives from the highways location at the top of the tree line. Yet the highest point is around 4500 feet. Shortly after a “town” called Boundary comes the border crossing. The US sign says the farthest north US border crossing. Basically there is little sign of habitation along the road. The road ends at the Yukon River where you must board a small free ferry to cross the strong currents of the Yukon to Dawson City. In addition to the slow driving we lost an hour. Canada is one hour later. Alaska originally had 4 different time zones but settled on one called Alaska time which is four hours earlier than the US East Coast.
We choose the only campground in the town on the advice of Jane and David. It’s a good walking town and we tested that out a couple of times before days end. There are several other campgrounds south of town. Much of the central area is under the auspices of Parks Canada Historic division. They have done some major renovations of buildings taking most back to the Klondike gold rush era of 18897-98. Dawson was the center of the activity. Gold is still being mined here and small claims are spread throughout the area.
Another claim to fame for Dawson is 3 writers, Jack London, who wrote about the area, and Robert Service, mainly known for his rhyming lengthy poems often featuring the gold miners and people of the area and Pierre Burton, a novelist. After dinner we walked up to Robert Services cabin on the edge of town and enjoyed hearing about his life and listening to some lesser known works. The young man an interpreter from Parks Canada who made the presentation was superb and really knew his subject. Judy is a big fan of the poet and she is one of many.
Day 55 Gold Rush Campgound, Dawson City, Yukon Territory, Canada We headed over to the rebuilt Palace Theatre for the 9:30 walking tour. Again the Parks Canada interpreter did an excellent job telling of the history and lives of the people of Dawson city. It was one of the first cities on the North American Continent to have electricity. The river was filled with paddlewheel boats bringing goods in and sometimes people out. Thirty thousand hopeful miner descended on the town after word of the Gold Rush was out making Dawson City the largest north of Seattle and west of Manitoba. Many buildings of that era are still standing which is remarkable with the many floods and the heaves of the permafrost. The town now has about 1800 year round residents but has an art academy, the theatre with year round performances, museums and a number of residents. Yet it is a step back in time but more authentic then many of the recreated historic towns.
After the tour we saw a film on the gold rush followed by another interpreter playing the part of Martha Black a leading Dawson figure for many years. Our morning guide also led the afternoon tour through the Commissioners house which has been brought back to its 1914 era when Martha Black was in residence with her Commissioner husband.
We then headed for the Westmark hotel where every afternoon at 3 p.m. an Irish actor Tom Bryne tells stories of Robert Service and recites his poems. He’s been doing this for 30 summers in Dawson. The weather went from hot to cold during the presentation which caused some Canadians dressed in shorts to be uncomfortable and for me to add layers. By dinner time it was warm again. It all depends on the sun and clouds. At bedtime it is warm and cozy but around 2 a.m. it must be in the 40’s outside and I have to add some layers.
Friday, June 26, 2009
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Days 53 & 54
Day 53 Miles 212 Tok RV Village, Tok, AK The day began with sunshine but I was a bit weary. It was so warm when I went to bed that I wasn’t prepared for the cold after 1:30 a.m. and had to rouse myself for more layers as well as retrieve my sleep mask. Sum total was lack of sleep. I suspect I was also a bit anxious with the knowledge that new roads were to be traveled the day ahead.
We left around 9:30 with Judy heading out for gas. We travel at our own pace and select places from the Milepost Book to rendezvous along the way. If we are a mile apart., the walkie talkie works. Our phones work depending on the signal.
The route away from Fairbanks is #2 called the Richardson Highway. It travels through the town of North Pole and heads primarily southeast toward Delta Junction. Eielson Air Force Base can be seen to the east with very large planes. Milepost warns no stopping or photographing. Tours can be arranged however. This base served during WWII as part of the system of ferrying planes to Siberia. There is a monument to this service in Fairbanks. It is an interesting and I suspect little known part of the war and illustrates the closeness of our relationship at that time. The air base occupies a very flat area which also seems to be the case for this section of the road. In the distance though, the peaks of the Alaska Range with their snow form a stunning backdrop to the west which I pull over to view several times. The road has unannounced gravel sections. It is heavily traveled by trucks and RV’s so one must stay alert. A lot of dust is raised in those gravel areas. The Tanana riverbed follows along though often seems devoid of water
As I approached a bridge I see a huge cable held structure that I first think is a railroad bridge. Instead it is supporting the pipeline bringing that oil down from Prudhome Bay. I stopped to take photos. It jogs here and then goes underground again near our meeting point Rika’s Roadhouse and Landing, a state historical park. This roadhouse was begun in the days when travel was limited to 15-20 miles a day by dogsled or horse and there was a ferry here to cross the river which is wide and swift at this point.
A lot of tour groups were going through but fortunately the café was not busy and we were able to get some soup and rhubarb pie. However the pie was a disappointment after those wonderful homemade ones by Judy and Shirley. The tables are surrounded by gift shop items and the original roadhouse building is part museum and part gift shop with impressive fur coats. I wasn’t tempted.
Soon after we reached Delta Junction, which was the end of the Alaska highway. Fairbanks also claims that distinction but that road was built earlier. We took photographs of the signpost at the Visitors Center. We will be following the highway off and on to the other end at Dawson City Yukon Territory. We both felt tired and having learned of some local ice cream, Northern Lights, went off in search of coffee and ice cream which was found at the local IGA. Both were very tasty and prepared us for the ride to to Tok which included more gravel sections, but these were better marked. The mountains were closer. These are the Wrangell Elias I think which head down toward Valdez.
We went through Tok in the early part of the month so at least the interchanges and gas stations were familiar. A quick dinner at Fast Eddies, walking distance from the RV Park, we hurried back to catch the 7 p.m. nightly show by a local singer/guitar player accompanied by a young fiddle player. This entertainment and RV park were suggested by Jane and Dave, met in Fairbanks, and we enjoyed the performance which was woven with stories of life in the interior of Alaska.
Day 54 Miles 78 Goldpanner/Chicken Creek RV Park, Chicken AK From Tetlin Junction you turn left onto the Taylor Highway. There are no services or buildings for the most part for the 60 miles to Chicken. Stretches are gravel, often with little shoulder area. The road climbs with sharp grade descents but for the most part is straight. Some sections are like a washboard so the total trip took a couple of hours with a stop or two to read about the gold miners who settled the area and the caribou who still live here.
There was a bit of confusion in finding the RV Park. A town of 15 people in the winter, there are 2 or 3 RV parks highly competitive with each other. This one is on the highway and offers a walking tour of the original town of Chicken. Judy and I had both read the book Tisha, about a young woman who came here to teach school in the 20’s. The original buildings are now being overgrown with foliage but we were able to go into what had been the General Store as well as the school house and Tisha’s dwelling. They hope to preserve the old log cabin buildings. The young man who led the tour is from Maine and in addition to working for this establishment is also a fireman/policeman/ EMT for the area.
I seemed to need to catch up on sleep and for the first time on the trip took an hour’s nap. We then walked to see the areas where the two competitor operators were located. At one we visited a couple from Kansas traveling in a small Winnebago. That area had a gift shop and small café. The third area has the General Mercantile, a café, liquor store and saloon. Our sites back up to the creek and have electricity due to a 24 hour generator. The Taylor highway continues on across the creek from us. Tomorrow we’ll head that way for Dawson City. The highway is known there as Top of the World partly because it is above the tree line. We’ve been warned the road is very rough, with steep stretches and curves. It is not advised to drive on a rainy day. We’ll be crossing into Canada as well.
We had another of Judy’s wonderful grilled dinners with vegetables and caribou burgers, from the meat bought Saturday day the farmers market. I said no restaurant we’ve visited has provided a better meal.
We left around 9:30 with Judy heading out for gas. We travel at our own pace and select places from the Milepost Book to rendezvous along the way. If we are a mile apart., the walkie talkie works. Our phones work depending on the signal.
The route away from Fairbanks is #2 called the Richardson Highway. It travels through the town of North Pole and heads primarily southeast toward Delta Junction. Eielson Air Force Base can be seen to the east with very large planes. Milepost warns no stopping or photographing. Tours can be arranged however. This base served during WWII as part of the system of ferrying planes to Siberia. There is a monument to this service in Fairbanks. It is an interesting and I suspect little known part of the war and illustrates the closeness of our relationship at that time. The air base occupies a very flat area which also seems to be the case for this section of the road. In the distance though, the peaks of the Alaska Range with their snow form a stunning backdrop to the west which I pull over to view several times. The road has unannounced gravel sections. It is heavily traveled by trucks and RV’s so one must stay alert. A lot of dust is raised in those gravel areas. The Tanana riverbed follows along though often seems devoid of water
As I approached a bridge I see a huge cable held structure that I first think is a railroad bridge. Instead it is supporting the pipeline bringing that oil down from Prudhome Bay. I stopped to take photos. It jogs here and then goes underground again near our meeting point Rika’s Roadhouse and Landing, a state historical park. This roadhouse was begun in the days when travel was limited to 15-20 miles a day by dogsled or horse and there was a ferry here to cross the river which is wide and swift at this point.
A lot of tour groups were going through but fortunately the café was not busy and we were able to get some soup and rhubarb pie. However the pie was a disappointment after those wonderful homemade ones by Judy and Shirley. The tables are surrounded by gift shop items and the original roadhouse building is part museum and part gift shop with impressive fur coats. I wasn’t tempted.
Soon after we reached Delta Junction, which was the end of the Alaska highway. Fairbanks also claims that distinction but that road was built earlier. We took photographs of the signpost at the Visitors Center. We will be following the highway off and on to the other end at Dawson City Yukon Territory. We both felt tired and having learned of some local ice cream, Northern Lights, went off in search of coffee and ice cream which was found at the local IGA. Both were very tasty and prepared us for the ride to to Tok which included more gravel sections, but these were better marked. The mountains were closer. These are the Wrangell Elias I think which head down toward Valdez.
We went through Tok in the early part of the month so at least the interchanges and gas stations were familiar. A quick dinner at Fast Eddies, walking distance from the RV Park, we hurried back to catch the 7 p.m. nightly show by a local singer/guitar player accompanied by a young fiddle player. This entertainment and RV park were suggested by Jane and Dave, met in Fairbanks, and we enjoyed the performance which was woven with stories of life in the interior of Alaska.
Day 54 Miles 78 Goldpanner/Chicken Creek RV Park, Chicken AK From Tetlin Junction you turn left onto the Taylor Highway. There are no services or buildings for the most part for the 60 miles to Chicken. Stretches are gravel, often with little shoulder area. The road climbs with sharp grade descents but for the most part is straight. Some sections are like a washboard so the total trip took a couple of hours with a stop or two to read about the gold miners who settled the area and the caribou who still live here.
There was a bit of confusion in finding the RV Park. A town of 15 people in the winter, there are 2 or 3 RV parks highly competitive with each other. This one is on the highway and offers a walking tour of the original town of Chicken. Judy and I had both read the book Tisha, about a young woman who came here to teach school in the 20’s. The original buildings are now being overgrown with foliage but we were able to go into what had been the General Store as well as the school house and Tisha’s dwelling. They hope to preserve the old log cabin buildings. The young man who led the tour is from Maine and in addition to working for this establishment is also a fireman/policeman/ EMT for the area.
I seemed to need to catch up on sleep and for the first time on the trip took an hour’s nap. We then walked to see the areas where the two competitor operators were located. At one we visited a couple from Kansas traveling in a small Winnebago. That area had a gift shop and small café. The third area has the General Mercantile, a café, liquor store and saloon. Our sites back up to the creek and have electricity due to a 24 hour generator. The Taylor highway continues on across the creek from us. Tomorrow we’ll head that way for Dawson City. The highway is known there as Top of the World partly because it is above the tree line. We’ve been warned the road is very rough, with steep stretches and curves. It is not advised to drive on a rainy day. We’ll be crossing into Canada as well.
We had another of Judy’s wonderful grilled dinners with vegetables and caribou burgers, from the meat bought Saturday day the farmers market. I said no restaurant we’ve visited has provided a better meal.
Monday, June 22, 2009
Alaska Bound Days 51 &52
Day 51 Miles We decided to get an early start back to Fairbanks. At 10 a.m. there was a Summer Solstice walk at a nature area The Creamery. A one time dairy farm, it now serves as a nature preserve and bird sanctuary. Today is a celebration of the Dragon Fly and booths with information or products were featured. The morning walk was their usual celebration of the almost 24 hour day and a way to point out the adaption of plants and wildlife to the lack of darkness. One of the results was a large owl out looking for food. He thought he found it in a nearby Robins nest but the birds defended their territory even flying at the owl’s head until he gave up. Twenty pairs of binoculars followed the action! Our guide confirmed what Judy and I had concluded, the wildflowers come and go very quickly. The beautiful wild iris were in bloom across the fields and in boggy areas and the wild calla lilies were just coming out which is usually a solstice happening. The wild roses we’ve been enjoying are fading and will become rosehips (don’t use the seeds was the caution). Yarrow, canola (also called rapseed), and arnica were also identified. We walked through the boreal forest path. Unfortunately many of the group were unprepared for the mosquitoes though they had been offered the headnets. Everyone wanted to know where I bought my bug jacket!
We left Big Mama and took Judy’s trek to the twice weekly Fairbanks farmers market. Everything there is supposed to be grown or made in Alaska. I purchased some rhubarb to try in the crock pot, and wildflower honey. We also bought some beautiful radishes. The grower said he started them Feb 13 inside. There were many tempting baked goods. For lunch I had a Buffalo “dog” and Judy a Reindeer “dog”. They were out of Elk but we purchased 1 ½ lb of frozen ground elk for a later meal. Many crafts people had booths as well.
The Summer Solstice celebration includes a number of activities including a 10K run which begins at the University of Alaska at 10 p.m. We drove over to the starting area about 9:30 and mingled with the crowd. Some were participating in the costume contest part of the race. A mermaid, Uncle Sam on an unicycle, robots, birds were a few of the many we saw. All ages were participating and there was a great spirit in the air. The serious runners began but soon all groups were hustling past. We drove to about the 2/3 mark and watched for awhile from the comfort of Big Mama. Rain began almost simultaneously with the race but it was fairly light. The race will end at Pioneer Park with the anticipated final finish at midnight. Of course it will still be light.
Day 52 Rivers Edge RV Park, Fairbanks AK It seemed to rain most of the night and into the morning. The irony was that it was one of the “darker” nights and yet it was the summer solstice. By noon though the sky was clear and with the sun doing its thing which here in Fairbanks means it is high in the sky for many hours and makes the air surprisingly warm though the thermometer only shows 70. We picked up a map and recorded walking tour and intermingled that with the Midnight Sun Festival activities which were occurring in the center of town over about a nine block area. There were three performance stages, 3 on 3 basketball tournaments, one block devoted to skate boards, lots of food venders, games, community groups and much more. Lots of people of all kinds and colors and everyone seemed to be having a good time and enjoying the wonderful weather.
The recorded tour was informative but unfortunately didn’t match the map so it was a bit confusing. The visitors center is in a beautiful new building but they are out of funds to redo the map we were told. Never the less it caused us to walk the area and see some log cabins and 20’s dwellings as well as the beautification project along the Chena River.
Tomorrow we turn south and head for Tok through which we passed in the beginning days in Alaska. It seems almost sad to going into this next phase of the trip. There is still much to see and do but this marks the beginning of the end. Alaska is an amazing place with incredible landscapes and unique people. In Fairbanks we have settled long enough to get around town, talk to many who are residents and participate in some of their lives. As the season begins to change toward winter after today’s zenith so I begin my travels southeast.
We left Big Mama and took Judy’s trek to the twice weekly Fairbanks farmers market. Everything there is supposed to be grown or made in Alaska. I purchased some rhubarb to try in the crock pot, and wildflower honey. We also bought some beautiful radishes. The grower said he started them Feb 13 inside. There were many tempting baked goods. For lunch I had a Buffalo “dog” and Judy a Reindeer “dog”. They were out of Elk but we purchased 1 ½ lb of frozen ground elk for a later meal. Many crafts people had booths as well.
The Summer Solstice celebration includes a number of activities including a 10K run which begins at the University of Alaska at 10 p.m. We drove over to the starting area about 9:30 and mingled with the crowd. Some were participating in the costume contest part of the race. A mermaid, Uncle Sam on an unicycle, robots, birds were a few of the many we saw. All ages were participating and there was a great spirit in the air. The serious runners began but soon all groups were hustling past. We drove to about the 2/3 mark and watched for awhile from the comfort of Big Mama. Rain began almost simultaneously with the race but it was fairly light. The race will end at Pioneer Park with the anticipated final finish at midnight. Of course it will still be light.
Day 52 Rivers Edge RV Park, Fairbanks AK It seemed to rain most of the night and into the morning. The irony was that it was one of the “darker” nights and yet it was the summer solstice. By noon though the sky was clear and with the sun doing its thing which here in Fairbanks means it is high in the sky for many hours and makes the air surprisingly warm though the thermometer only shows 70. We picked up a map and recorded walking tour and intermingled that with the Midnight Sun Festival activities which were occurring in the center of town over about a nine block area. There were three performance stages, 3 on 3 basketball tournaments, one block devoted to skate boards, lots of food venders, games, community groups and much more. Lots of people of all kinds and colors and everyone seemed to be having a good time and enjoying the wonderful weather.
The recorded tour was informative but unfortunately didn’t match the map so it was a bit confusing. The visitors center is in a beautiful new building but they are out of funds to redo the map we were told. Never the less it caused us to walk the area and see some log cabins and 20’s dwellings as well as the beautification project along the Chena River.
Tomorrow we turn south and head for Tok through which we passed in the beginning days in Alaska. It seems almost sad to going into this next phase of the trip. There is still much to see and do but this marks the beginning of the end. Alaska is an amazing place with incredible landscapes and unique people. In Fairbanks we have settled long enough to get around town, talk to many who are residents and participate in some of their lives. As the season begins to change toward winter after today’s zenith so I begin my travels southeast.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Alaska Bound Day 50
L Ice Museum Chena Springs R. Granit Tor Path
Day 50 Miles 67 Chena Hot Springs We left River’s Edge RV after securing sites for Saturday and Sunday. The summer solstice is their biggest weekend of the year with many activities. I picked up a Friday paper so we could review the options.
The drive on Chena Hot Springs road was tree lined with multiple crossings over the Chena river which apparently winds back and forth. Moose were spotted along one section of river bank and all the photographers almost caused a traffic jam. We stopped at Granite Tors hiking trail access, a paved lot with toilets and picnic tables along the river. A very informative trail description was available and we walked the first few miles of the trail which followed the river. The mosquitoes were thick and I was thankful for my “bug” jacket. We saw evidence of wildlife but no actual “critters”. Those ranger led hikes have heightened our awareness to look for tracks, broken branches missing leaves, teeth marks on the birch (moose have only lower teeth and scrape the tree going up) and beaver dams.
Back at the vehicles we debated eating at a picnic table but were warned by a family that the bugs were bad so ate inside. Shortly after leaving, it began to rain. The sign said “Road Ends” but then we spotted the Chena Hot Springs Resort site. Selecting a couple of RV sites we went in and registered. This will be a night without electricity. We then went over to arrange for the 3 p.m. tour of the ice Museum. However we elected not to have the Aappletini in the glass made of ice, an extra charge, at the end of the tour. The temperature is 20 degrees and I prepared with long underwear, wool sweater, hat and gloves. The building is made of blocks of ice taken from the nearby creek. Inside ice blocks are stacked high waiting to be used. They are clear more than ¾ of the thickness and the top 1/3 is very white. This is actually the snow that fell on top of the ice. We had a large group and everyone was offered a down parka to wear. I added it to my layers. Inside the walls are frosty. Ice sculpted into life size knights on horses, chessmen, a polar bear, a wedding chapel (“short services”) a large bar where the appletini’s were served, 3 rooms available to stay in, one of which had an ice “porta potty” with a conventional seat were all part of the high ceiling building lighted by chandeliers made of ice. It was truly unique.
After that cold experience it was time for the hot springs. First we used the indoor pool and I went over some of the Schooner Oaks water exercises with Judy. The pool water was definitely warmer that the one at home. I could tell I hadn’t done those exercises for a while. Then it was out into the 50 degree outdoors in our wet suits and quickly into 106 degree hot springs water. It was not very crowded and you move around on a sandy/gravel substance under foot. The depth is probably 4 ft. No children are allowed. A fountain of cold water provides a rain like experience in the middle and the hot springs water beats down on you from an incoming pipe. All in all I really enjoyed it but then I like hot showers too. What really surprised me was that I was able to sit out on the rocks in my suit with a terry cloth jacket over my shoulders and I wasn’t cold. It was a cloudy day but the surrounded wooded hills made a very attractive backdrop and I felt like I was on vacation!
We decided to eat at the lodge’s dining room and had a very relaxed meal. Our waiter was from Bulgaria and .worked all over the states including Kissimmee Florida. This resort has the bulk of its business in the winter when in addition to the many activities, they provide rides on a tank like vehicle to get a good view of the Aurora Borealis. Much of their clientele come from Japan. It is truly a unique place.
The drive on Chena Hot Springs road was tree lined with multiple crossings over the Chena river which apparently winds back and forth. Moose were spotted along one section of river bank and all the photographers almost caused a traffic jam. We stopped at Granite Tors hiking trail access, a paved lot with toilets and picnic tables along the river. A very informative trail description was available and we walked the first few miles of the trail which followed the river. The mosquitoes were thick and I was thankful for my “bug” jacket. We saw evidence of wildlife but no actual “critters”. Those ranger led hikes have heightened our awareness to look for tracks, broken branches missing leaves, teeth marks on the birch (moose have only lower teeth and scrape the tree going up) and beaver dams.
Back at the vehicles we debated eating at a picnic table but were warned by a family that the bugs were bad so ate inside. Shortly after leaving, it began to rain. The sign said “Road Ends” but then we spotted the Chena Hot Springs Resort site. Selecting a couple of RV sites we went in and registered. This will be a night without electricity. We then went over to arrange for the 3 p.m. tour of the ice Museum. However we elected not to have the Aappletini in the glass made of ice, an extra charge, at the end of the tour. The temperature is 20 degrees and I prepared with long underwear, wool sweater, hat and gloves. The building is made of blocks of ice taken from the nearby creek. Inside ice blocks are stacked high waiting to be used. They are clear more than ¾ of the thickness and the top 1/3 is very white. This is actually the snow that fell on top of the ice. We had a large group and everyone was offered a down parka to wear. I added it to my layers. Inside the walls are frosty. Ice sculpted into life size knights on horses, chessmen, a polar bear, a wedding chapel (“short services”) a large bar where the appletini’s were served, 3 rooms available to stay in, one of which had an ice “porta potty” with a conventional seat were all part of the high ceiling building lighted by chandeliers made of ice. It was truly unique.
After that cold experience it was time for the hot springs. First we used the indoor pool and I went over some of the Schooner Oaks water exercises with Judy. The pool water was definitely warmer that the one at home. I could tell I hadn’t done those exercises for a while. Then it was out into the 50 degree outdoors in our wet suits and quickly into 106 degree hot springs water. It was not very crowded and you move around on a sandy/gravel substance under foot. The depth is probably 4 ft. No children are allowed. A fountain of cold water provides a rain like experience in the middle and the hot springs water beats down on you from an incoming pipe. All in all I really enjoyed it but then I like hot showers too. What really surprised me was that I was able to sit out on the rocks in my suit with a terry cloth jacket over my shoulders and I wasn’t cold. It was a cloudy day but the surrounded wooded hills made a very attractive backdrop and I felt like I was on vacation!
We decided to eat at the lodge’s dining room and had a very relaxed meal. Our waiter was from Bulgaria and .worked all over the states including Kissimmee Florida. This resort has the bulk of its business in the winter when in addition to the many activities, they provide rides on a tank like vehicle to get a good view of the Aurora Borealis. Much of their clientele come from Japan. It is truly a unique place.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Alaska Bounds Days 48 and 49
Day 48 Rivers Edge RV Park Fairbanks We had checked out this park yesterday. It is more centrally located, doesn’t have all the caravan activity, and provided us with complementary bus transportation to the Discovery Paddlewheel Boat tour that we had scheduled for this afternoon. In addition I was disappointed in the condition of the Riverview toilet facilities (they allowed the lights to go totally out) and the laundry where a number of machines did not work and those that did were not very good.
The boat tour was 3 hours on the Chena River which connects to the Tanana. Slit has filled the channel so that the boat can no longer enter the Tanana. Never the less it was a very interesting and entertaining time with a demonstration of a seaplane take off and landing, sled dog training and running at the home of Susan Butcher, and a Athabascan type village with some of their dwellings before and after the white man’s arrival. I discovered an Iowa classmate in the seat behind me and we compared notes. We didn’t know each other at school but were in the same dorm and graduated the same year.
On returning to the campground, Judy received word from a Roadtrek couple that they would be arriving at the campground around 6 and we would all have dinner together at the Chena Grill which is part of this complex. David and Jane left their Vermont home in mid May and came up into Alaska the route we will be taking out of the area. It was great to exchange information on what to do or not do and where to stay or not stay! They are flying to Barrow on the Arctic Ocean Sunday to celebrate the summer solstice. Judy and I looked at some of the options and costs of the trip but decided it was more than we wanted to added to our itinerary. Instead we will go for an overnight to Chena Hot Springs, about 80 miles northeast of Fairbanks for one night and then return for the solstice here in Fairbanks.
Day 49 Rivers Edge RV Park Roadtrek owners and Alaska lifetime residents, Dell and John, invited us to visit their homestead on the outskirts of Fairbanks. It is 150 acres and on a clear day they can see to Mt McKinley/Denali. We made a wrong turn enroute and John came out with his pickup to lead the way. They have a wonderful one room cabin divided by a huge fireplace built by Dell’s father. Her family has been in Alaska since the 1890’s and John’s about as long. Part of the property has a 125 foot easement for the Alaska Pipeline and we walked that area. Here it is underground. They have photos of Del’s father and their son watching the building of the pipeline.
We enjoyed our conversation learning more about Alaskan life and history. John also told of the relationship between the Rotarians in the area setting up Rotary clubs along the Siberian coast of Russia and the interchanges between the two areas.
Back in Fairbanks we visited the impressive Visitor, Convention, and Cultural Center, less than a year old. Dave and Jane had warned us of some forest fires in the Whitehorse area so Judy obtained some website information from the Land Management people who also occupy the building. We’ll check as we approach that area in about a week. There were also maps and info on our Yukon stops.
Greek was the menu for a late lunch in downtown Fairbanks and then off to Fred Meyers for supplies and food. As we returned to the campground, my site was blocked by a large tow truck. He was towing off a pickup that apparently had been damaged by one of the roads traversed but the owner said it was worth it with all the wildlife they saw. Unfortunately I didn’t learn the road involved.
The boat tour was 3 hours on the Chena River which connects to the Tanana. Slit has filled the channel so that the boat can no longer enter the Tanana. Never the less it was a very interesting and entertaining time with a demonstration of a seaplane take off and landing, sled dog training and running at the home of Susan Butcher, and a Athabascan type village with some of their dwellings before and after the white man’s arrival. I discovered an Iowa classmate in the seat behind me and we compared notes. We didn’t know each other at school but were in the same dorm and graduated the same year.
On returning to the campground, Judy received word from a Roadtrek couple that they would be arriving at the campground around 6 and we would all have dinner together at the Chena Grill which is part of this complex. David and Jane left their Vermont home in mid May and came up into Alaska the route we will be taking out of the area. It was great to exchange information on what to do or not do and where to stay or not stay! They are flying to Barrow on the Arctic Ocean Sunday to celebrate the summer solstice. Judy and I looked at some of the options and costs of the trip but decided it was more than we wanted to added to our itinerary. Instead we will go for an overnight to Chena Hot Springs, about 80 miles northeast of Fairbanks for one night and then return for the solstice here in Fairbanks.
Day 49 Rivers Edge RV Park Roadtrek owners and Alaska lifetime residents, Dell and John, invited us to visit their homestead on the outskirts of Fairbanks. It is 150 acres and on a clear day they can see to Mt McKinley/Denali. We made a wrong turn enroute and John came out with his pickup to lead the way. They have a wonderful one room cabin divided by a huge fireplace built by Dell’s father. Her family has been in Alaska since the 1890’s and John’s about as long. Part of the property has a 125 foot easement for the Alaska Pipeline and we walked that area. Here it is underground. They have photos of Del’s father and their son watching the building of the pipeline.
We enjoyed our conversation learning more about Alaskan life and history. John also told of the relationship between the Rotarians in the area setting up Rotary clubs along the Siberian coast of Russia and the interchanges between the two areas.
Back in Fairbanks we visited the impressive Visitor, Convention, and Cultural Center, less than a year old. Dave and Jane had warned us of some forest fires in the Whitehorse area so Judy obtained some website information from the Land Management people who also occupy the building. We’ll check as we approach that area in about a week. There were also maps and info on our Yukon stops.
Greek was the menu for a late lunch in downtown Fairbanks and then off to Fred Meyers for supplies and food. As we returned to the campground, my site was blocked by a large tow truck. He was towing off a pickup that apparently had been damaged by one of the roads traversed but the owner said it was worth it with all the wildlife they saw. Unfortunately I didn’t learn the road involved.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Alaska Bound Day 47
Day 47 Riverview RV Park North Pole, AK I’m happy to report Arctic RV in Fairbanks was able to solve Judy’s electrical problem which was a breaker replacement. She may have more details in her blog. You can link to her blog from this page. I also made progress. I started by telephoning Progressive Insurance and doing a claim on the pitting on the windshield. They referred me to the Glass Doctor franchise here in North Pole whoco uld take me right away. When I arrived I noticed they had a 76 Lube sign and asked about oil change. Yes they did that, and rotating tires, and replacing wiper blades. In other words I found one stop shopping for my automotive needs as a result of the glass problem! I was very impressed by their service. So after such a productive morning we headed into Fairbanks for the afternoon to check out Pioneer Park which was originally “Alaska Land”. A combination of park with playgrounds, a carousel, train ride and train museum, air museum, art museum and a number of old original Fairbanks buildings which were moved to the park in 1967 after a major flood in the downtown area. Most are now shops primarily selling local art and crafts. We rode the train and toured the historic buildings. Having read a book about Fairbanks in the early 1900’s it was fun to see the structures and in several incidences talk with the people whose families had been in the area at the time the buildings were still in use. Even those growing up in the 50’s told of some primitive lifestyles. We also discussed the present use of outhouses with a couple of shopkeepers. Lack of water in many areas is part of the reason. Many expensive homes, have water trucked in.
The highlight of the day though came this evening. We were treated to dinner at the famous Pump House restaurant located on the river. Our hosts were Alaskan Roadtrek owners John and Dell who were celebrating their 48th wedding anniversary. We had a wonderful table outside where we could watch the river traffic. After dinner we toured the university’s botanical garden and then had a driving tour of the downtown. They both grew up in Alaska and spoke of their lives as children. We have been so fortunate to have the Roadtrek network and the wonderful people who are part of the group and so willingly give us information, suggestions, and special treatment when we visit their area.
The highlight of the day though came this evening. We were treated to dinner at the famous Pump House restaurant located on the river. Our hosts were Alaskan Roadtrek owners John and Dell who were celebrating their 48th wedding anniversary. We had a wonderful table outside where we could watch the river traffic. After dinner we toured the university’s botanical garden and then had a driving tour of the downtown. They both grew up in Alaska and spoke of their lives as children. We have been so fortunate to have the Roadtrek network and the wonderful people who are part of the group and so willingly give us information, suggestions, and special treatment when we visit their area.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Alaska Bound Days 44-46
Day 44 Denali National Park The day began cool and cloudy. We both did some catch up work including for me working on the blog. Then we took Judy’s van over to the visitor center. It is a hub of activity and the place where most of the Cruise ship related passengers arrive. We watched a film on the park and then set off with Ranger Karen for a ranger guided hike on the McKinley Station Trail. This trail follows the sites of some of the early park buildings and roads/trails and Karen had photos of that period. She also handed each of us pictures of plants and we were to say when we matched up. Karen could be a younger version of my sister-in-law Sara. The resemblance and mannerisms were striking. Perhaps it was the enthusiasm Karen showed for the wildlife and living in Alaska. She pointed out scat and tracks of animals, told stories of the park (these are being repeated but assists me in remembering them) as well as identifying plants and their position in the life cycle of the area. We walked back to the visitor’s center and spent some time at the bookshop/gift store before using the Wifi in the café area. The connection was not great but I managed to get the blog posted.
Returning to the campground we had another of Judy’s great grilled vegetable and steak dinners. Afterwards we walked up for the ranger program only to discover there wasn’t one. The day had turned beautiful after on and off rain so perhaps that had cancelled the program.
Day 45 Miles 94 Nenana RV Park, Nenana AK We headed over to the Denali Park Visitor Center for another ranger guided walk at 10. This one was led by Ranger Michael whose theme was Wild Things in the Wilderness and he began and ended with quotes from Maurice Sedlack (?) book Where the Wild Things Are. He fostered our imaginations and senses as he gave us challenges along the Horseshoe Lake Trail. There were some steep and rocky areas and rain threatened during the first half of the 2 hour trip but it was exhilarating. The tiny drops of water on the plants were like jewels and the fragrance of the plants varied. (See what Michael did to my senses.) We have noted how many wildflowers have come out in just the short period of our visit. Yet areas of ice and snow are still visible.
I wished we had more time to do some of the ranger led walks farther into the park. We could have stayed another day but it seemed best to move along. We have tasks for Fairbanks where we’ll also sketch out our final weeks. Judy needs to resolve her electrical problems and I need to get my oil changed and tires rotated. I think I will also get new windshield wiper blades. Rain today convinced me they could do a better job. As I was leaving Wassilla the other day, a motorcycle swerved in front of me and threw off a stone that hit the windshield. It caused a small spot but I worry it could spread so I’m hoping to get either a kit to fill it in some way or have a glass shop do it. I’m told you can purchase such a thing in a parts shop or even that the insurance company will send someone out to do the job since it may prevent eventual replacement of the windshield.
We had a great lunch at Rosie’s Café north of Healey, suggested by an Alaskan Roadtrek owner. We also took a side trip down Stampede Road. It was in this area that the young man of the novel and film Into the Wild spent a winter and died. The Milepost Book says there is a memorial at the site and our driver, Lisa, says she has passed the bus when she’s been in the area with her dogs. It is quite a distance from the road however. We walked a short way over what might be described as muskeg.. It was full of fluffy white flower heads bending in the wind. A rain storm was coming over the hills to the west and it wasn’t long after we were back in the vehicles until it reached us.
In a miscommunication we had two different campgrounds in our GPS’s. Discovering the difference we visited Judy’s first. Perhaps it was the gloomy rainy day, but it didn’t appeal to me. We then tried a compromise at Anderson AK riverfront park near Clear A.F. Base. That didn’t work for either of us. So Judy headed back to her more wilderness location and I came on to Nenana, a small historical town that is pretty quiet on a Sunday night. The campground owners winter in North Point Florida and I met someone who bought their Rialto in Sebastian FL.
I picked up the Sunday Fairbanks paper. Sunset tonight is 12:41a.m. and Sunrise is 3:01 a.m. “Civil twilight” begins 2:13 a.m. and “Civil twilight” ends at 2:13 a.m. I guess that means it never is totally dark. I’ve been using a sleep mask. It’s just difficult to know when to go to bed. With such brightness at 10 p.m., I’m tempted to hit the laundry.
Day 46 Miles 68 Riverview RV Park, North Pole AK No I haven’t visited Santa yet. The drive here was scenic with frequent truck lanes for slow traffic like me. We first rendezvoused in Nenana and decided our initial Fairbanks stop would be at the Museum of the North at University of Alaska. It is a spectacular building and highly touted but we felt that the displays at Juneau and Anchorage were easier to read and follow. True to form we parked in a decal only lot which we discovered on returning to the vehicles. Fortunately no tickets and the campus seemed pretty quiet. We watched two films at the museum. One was on the Aurora Borealis. Fairbanks is supposed to be the best place in the world to see this magnificent light show. The other film was about experiencing winter in Alaska. Surprisingly a number of people have out houses. In fact one of the “art” exhibits was a humorous portrayal of the Alaska outhouse. I guess the alternative is frozen pipes. Fairbanks has the most extremes in temperatures and -60F is not unusual. Judy noticed the electrical boxes by the parking spots for plugging in the vehicles in the winter. We’ve heard tales of frozen batteries.
We checked out the location of Arctic RV where Judy with take her Trek in the morning. Hopefully they can make speedy work of the diagnosis and cure for her electrical woes. The campground is fairly crowded with a caravan of large vehicles arriving about the same time as we checked in We are staying here two nights as of now. My mail was waiting for me thanks to sister Margaret’s diligence. No big surprises or problems either.
Fairbanks has always been the turning point on the itinerary. The next stops will take us more easterly. And back into Canada. We both are feeling like we’d like to do parts we’ve done over again now that we’ve figured out what it is all about. Also it is getting warmer! However last night the mosquitoes almost did me in. My flight information for my Europe trip in September was part of the mail which is another reason that this wonderful trip will have to come to an end.
Returning to the campground we had another of Judy’s great grilled vegetable and steak dinners. Afterwards we walked up for the ranger program only to discover there wasn’t one. The day had turned beautiful after on and off rain so perhaps that had cancelled the program.
Day 45 Miles 94 Nenana RV Park, Nenana AK We headed over to the Denali Park Visitor Center for another ranger guided walk at 10. This one was led by Ranger Michael whose theme was Wild Things in the Wilderness and he began and ended with quotes from Maurice Sedlack (?) book Where the Wild Things Are. He fostered our imaginations and senses as he gave us challenges along the Horseshoe Lake Trail. There were some steep and rocky areas and rain threatened during the first half of the 2 hour trip but it was exhilarating. The tiny drops of water on the plants were like jewels and the fragrance of the plants varied. (See what Michael did to my senses.) We have noted how many wildflowers have come out in just the short period of our visit. Yet areas of ice and snow are still visible.
I wished we had more time to do some of the ranger led walks farther into the park. We could have stayed another day but it seemed best to move along. We have tasks for Fairbanks where we’ll also sketch out our final weeks. Judy needs to resolve her electrical problems and I need to get my oil changed and tires rotated. I think I will also get new windshield wiper blades. Rain today convinced me they could do a better job. As I was leaving Wassilla the other day, a motorcycle swerved in front of me and threw off a stone that hit the windshield. It caused a small spot but I worry it could spread so I’m hoping to get either a kit to fill it in some way or have a glass shop do it. I’m told you can purchase such a thing in a parts shop or even that the insurance company will send someone out to do the job since it may prevent eventual replacement of the windshield.
We had a great lunch at Rosie’s Café north of Healey, suggested by an Alaskan Roadtrek owner. We also took a side trip down Stampede Road. It was in this area that the young man of the novel and film Into the Wild spent a winter and died. The Milepost Book says there is a memorial at the site and our driver, Lisa, says she has passed the bus when she’s been in the area with her dogs. It is quite a distance from the road however. We walked a short way over what might be described as muskeg.. It was full of fluffy white flower heads bending in the wind. A rain storm was coming over the hills to the west and it wasn’t long after we were back in the vehicles until it reached us.
In a miscommunication we had two different campgrounds in our GPS’s. Discovering the difference we visited Judy’s first. Perhaps it was the gloomy rainy day, but it didn’t appeal to me. We then tried a compromise at Anderson AK riverfront park near Clear A.F. Base. That didn’t work for either of us. So Judy headed back to her more wilderness location and I came on to Nenana, a small historical town that is pretty quiet on a Sunday night. The campground owners winter in North Point Florida and I met someone who bought their Rialto in Sebastian FL.
I picked up the Sunday Fairbanks paper. Sunset tonight is 12:41a.m. and Sunrise is 3:01 a.m. “Civil twilight” begins 2:13 a.m. and “Civil twilight” ends at 2:13 a.m. I guess that means it never is totally dark. I’ve been using a sleep mask. It’s just difficult to know when to go to bed. With such brightness at 10 p.m., I’m tempted to hit the laundry.
Day 46 Miles 68 Riverview RV Park, North Pole AK No I haven’t visited Santa yet. The drive here was scenic with frequent truck lanes for slow traffic like me. We first rendezvoused in Nenana and decided our initial Fairbanks stop would be at the Museum of the North at University of Alaska. It is a spectacular building and highly touted but we felt that the displays at Juneau and Anchorage were easier to read and follow. True to form we parked in a decal only lot which we discovered on returning to the vehicles. Fortunately no tickets and the campus seemed pretty quiet. We watched two films at the museum. One was on the Aurora Borealis. Fairbanks is supposed to be the best place in the world to see this magnificent light show. The other film was about experiencing winter in Alaska. Surprisingly a number of people have out houses. In fact one of the “art” exhibits was a humorous portrayal of the Alaska outhouse. I guess the alternative is frozen pipes. Fairbanks has the most extremes in temperatures and -60F is not unusual. Judy noticed the electrical boxes by the parking spots for plugging in the vehicles in the winter. We’ve heard tales of frozen batteries.
We checked out the location of Arctic RV where Judy with take her Trek in the morning. Hopefully they can make speedy work of the diagnosis and cure for her electrical woes. The campground is fairly crowded with a caravan of large vehicles arriving about the same time as we checked in We are staying here two nights as of now. My mail was waiting for me thanks to sister Margaret’s diligence. No big surprises or problems either.
Fairbanks has always been the turning point on the itinerary. The next stops will take us more easterly. And back into Canada. We both are feeling like we’d like to do parts we’ve done over again now that we’ve figured out what it is all about. Also it is getting warmer! However last night the mosquitoes almost did me in. My flight information for my Europe trip in September was part of the mail which is another reason that this wonderful trip will have to come to an end.
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